Hi Everyone
I've been at this about a week now, and have been spending hours each day searching this (and other) pages to help myself out and avoid redundancy, but I am running out of time to get this car running, so I'm posting all of what I've done so far to see if anyone can tell me what I'm missing. So, here goes:
2003 OB automatic, 2.5 liter, 179,000 miles, bought in 2007 with 130,xxx miles and has run fine most of that time, aside from replacing a clicking front shaft.
Last Friday, it very suddenly started gasping and stalling, rough idle then quit.
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12/28: tried starting - would sometimes sputter, rough idle, quit - other times would start up like fine, run for 3-10 seconds, then quit. It would idle at 1,800, drop to 15, then 10, then quit. Checked vacuum hoses, didn't find leaks, checked and changed air filter. (BTW oil and filter changed a few weeks ago) 2 pending codes: P0301 + P0303. (misfire on 1 and 3) battery ran low - put on charger and called it a day.
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12/30: had hopes of getting it to the shop - no go. Now 3 fault codes:
fault 1: N/A (what the heck could that be?)
fault 2: P0303 (again)
fault 3: P0304 (new, and no 0301 like before?)
Pulled plug wires - oil on the boots - tomorrow's work cut out for me.
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12/31: installed new valve gasket set, plugs and wires.
Runs OK with foot on gas at 2-3k rpm, let to idle, dies.
Read up on cleaning MAF - realized this one has MAP, not MAF.
Read up on IACV cleaning. Pulled it, cleaned it, re-installed it. Didn't seem stuck. (is there a way to test these with a multi-meter?)
Symptoms the same. (Advance auto guy said the coil couldn't be bad if it would run fine with foot on the gas - has spark for sure. Hope that's true 'cause you can't "test" these coil packs - secondary yes, primary, no.)
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1/1: Removed and cleaned EGR valve. Was coated in carbon, stuck slightly open. Q-tips and solvent and elbow grease, and the plunger was moving smoothly and sealing tightly. (this it the electronically controlled EGR, not vacuum controlled. Is there a way to test these with a multi-meter? it's a 6 pin configuration.) Started rough, but when I put my foot on accelerator, and held it at 2.5-3K rpm, seemed fine. Let off the pedal, and it started to idle normally (like it was re-learning the idle) this went on for 10-15 minutes. Thought the problem was solved, started putting tools away, then it died again. CEL came on - 1 code, 1 pending code.
Code: N/A (again, what could this be?)
Pending code: P0130 P (upstream o2 sensor circuit - connected to 1/4 work?)
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1/3: Cleared codes. Started and same symptoms. Then wouldn't start at all, mostly - cranking and "trying" for a second or 2, then cranking slower without signs of life. Suspect fuel pump? hear it running for a few seconds when I turn the key to on, as usual - pump does not sound different than usual. Just in case, changed fuel filter. no improvement, no codes.
Pulled cam position sensor. resistance = 2k ohms: norm is 1-4K.
Pulled Crankshaft position sensor. Resistance = 1.9-2k ohms. Same norm (?)
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1/4: Pulled coil pack - tested with multi-meter.
Primary resistance was giving infinite readings - learned later that you can't test primary resistance on these (about MY 2000 up for a while) secondary resistance between 1+2, 3+4 about 12k ohms - normal is between 10.8-14.7 according to Chiltons.
Concerned about the pending code P0130P from a few days ago: code didn't return, but still concerned about front o2 sensor. Wire connector was dirty with grease - pulled connector and tested for resistance on the 2 black wires, which should be the heater. (?) I read that normal is about 12k ohms, and if it reads high or infinite, the o2 sensor is bad. Mine rated 0: no resistance at all, implying a short. Not sure if the short is in the wire harness or the o2 sensor. The inside of the connector looks clean, but the wires coming out of the connector were greasy - there's no clamp on the CV boot, and it threw grease around, including on the wires. I sprayed the connector and wires with carb cleaner and will let it dry out overnight, then re test tomorrow. If it still shows no resistance, I assume that means I need a new o2 sensor - can someone please confirm or deny that?
--------------
That's what I've done so far - any of you amazing specialists have suggestions about what I should try next? I'm wondering if I should buy a fuel pressure gauge to see if the pump is getting weak. Any suggestion about what to test/try next would be greatly appreciated!
I've been at this about a week now, and have been spending hours each day searching this (and other) pages to help myself out and avoid redundancy, but I am running out of time to get this car running, so I'm posting all of what I've done so far to see if anyone can tell me what I'm missing. So, here goes:
2003 OB automatic, 2.5 liter, 179,000 miles, bought in 2007 with 130,xxx miles and has run fine most of that time, aside from replacing a clicking front shaft.
Last Friday, it very suddenly started gasping and stalling, rough idle then quit.
-----------
12/28: tried starting - would sometimes sputter, rough idle, quit - other times would start up like fine, run for 3-10 seconds, then quit. It would idle at 1,800, drop to 15, then 10, then quit. Checked vacuum hoses, didn't find leaks, checked and changed air filter. (BTW oil and filter changed a few weeks ago) 2 pending codes: P0301 + P0303. (misfire on 1 and 3) battery ran low - put on charger and called it a day.
--------------
12/30: had hopes of getting it to the shop - no go. Now 3 fault codes:
fault 1: N/A (what the heck could that be?)
fault 2: P0303 (again)
fault 3: P0304 (new, and no 0301 like before?)
Pulled plug wires - oil on the boots - tomorrow's work cut out for me.
----------------
12/31: installed new valve gasket set, plugs and wires.
Runs OK with foot on gas at 2-3k rpm, let to idle, dies.
Read up on cleaning MAF - realized this one has MAP, not MAF.
Read up on IACV cleaning. Pulled it, cleaned it, re-installed it. Didn't seem stuck. (is there a way to test these with a multi-meter?)
Symptoms the same. (Advance auto guy said the coil couldn't be bad if it would run fine with foot on the gas - has spark for sure. Hope that's true 'cause you can't "test" these coil packs - secondary yes, primary, no.)
-----------------
1/1: Removed and cleaned EGR valve. Was coated in carbon, stuck slightly open. Q-tips and solvent and elbow grease, and the plunger was moving smoothly and sealing tightly. (this it the electronically controlled EGR, not vacuum controlled. Is there a way to test these with a multi-meter? it's a 6 pin configuration.) Started rough, but when I put my foot on accelerator, and held it at 2.5-3K rpm, seemed fine. Let off the pedal, and it started to idle normally (like it was re-learning the idle) this went on for 10-15 minutes. Thought the problem was solved, started putting tools away, then it died again. CEL came on - 1 code, 1 pending code.
Code: N/A (again, what could this be?)
Pending code: P0130 P (upstream o2 sensor circuit - connected to 1/4 work?)
--------------------
1/3: Cleared codes. Started and same symptoms. Then wouldn't start at all, mostly - cranking and "trying" for a second or 2, then cranking slower without signs of life. Suspect fuel pump? hear it running for a few seconds when I turn the key to on, as usual - pump does not sound different than usual. Just in case, changed fuel filter. no improvement, no codes.
Pulled cam position sensor. resistance = 2k ohms: norm is 1-4K.
Pulled Crankshaft position sensor. Resistance = 1.9-2k ohms. Same norm (?)
-------------------
1/4: Pulled coil pack - tested with multi-meter.
Primary resistance was giving infinite readings - learned later that you can't test primary resistance on these (about MY 2000 up for a while) secondary resistance between 1+2, 3+4 about 12k ohms - normal is between 10.8-14.7 according to Chiltons.
Concerned about the pending code P0130P from a few days ago: code didn't return, but still concerned about front o2 sensor. Wire connector was dirty with grease - pulled connector and tested for resistance on the 2 black wires, which should be the heater. (?) I read that normal is about 12k ohms, and if it reads high or infinite, the o2 sensor is bad. Mine rated 0: no resistance at all, implying a short. Not sure if the short is in the wire harness or the o2 sensor. The inside of the connector looks clean, but the wires coming out of the connector were greasy - there's no clamp on the CV boot, and it threw grease around, including on the wires. I sprayed the connector and wires with carb cleaner and will let it dry out overnight, then re test tomorrow. If it still shows no resistance, I assume that means I need a new o2 sensor - can someone please confirm or deny that?
--------------
That's what I've done so far - any of you amazing specialists have suggestions about what I should try next? I'm wondering if I should buy a fuel pressure gauge to see if the pump is getting weak. Any suggestion about what to test/try next would be greatly appreciated!
