Subaru Outback Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2003 Outback high rev is this the clutch?

I had my oil changed and tires rotated last week. They overfilled the oil by at least a quart. I made them take some out and they did, though it is still at the notch on the stick. (above the full line)

This is a 2003 OUtback with 112000 miles. Manual transmission with all the bells and whistles...
I bought it in March and don't know the entire history on it but I am the 2nd owner...this is my first manual transition (other than many motorcycles) I've owned, though not the first I've driven.

My question;
I've searched the forum, but can't find much. Since the oil change, I've experienced a high rev situation between all the gears. The clutch seems to engage as it has since my purchase, but once in the gear, it revs way high, then settles out as speed is increased. I smell something like a burning oil smell when this happens soon before I stop, but not during driving. My AC also has quit output. I don't see any oil stains, the CV boots seem to be intact.....

The only thing I've ever found unusual is the difficult 1st gear. It is really tight ever since I bought it. Clutch throw and engagement seems normal, though much different (longer perhaps?) than a Toyota, Ford, or Chevy.

Is this related to the overfilled oil?
Is this clutch related?
Is this engine related?
Is this clutch master cylinder (or is that slave cylinder?) related?
Is this break related?
Is this an airline (senser) related?
Where should I start?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,023 Posts
I think you have 2 problems, likley unrelated to the work done.

A/C could be simply low refrigerant. Tha would be the first thing to check. Have the shop install refirgerant with dye in it so, if the leak is large, it can be found more seasily. My '03 stopped working, was almost a full can low, but after recharging is now working well. No sign of a leak. After a few years, you just lose refrigerant sometimes.

The other symptom seems like a worn-out clutch. less likely I guess would be some fluid on the flywheel/clutch parts.

get a different shop for maintenance.


if you post your citiy - someone may be able to recommend a shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I agree about the AC Its just odd that it quit the same day.

What are the symptoms of a worn clutch then?
Seems to me I'd feel some difference in the pedal, and it actually shifting between gears. It shifts fine, it is just the RPM going high and not coming back.
I'm not new to Manuals, but admittedly am more used to motorcycles. They get interesting when the clutch starts going.

Odd thing is the week before the oilchange another service center did work for the dealer per the origional purchase agreement. (It was a door seal, not mechanically related) The owner of the shop volunteered that my clutch was going bad...but I did not feel anything different then.

Sorry, I've not had time to update the profile. I've lurked here for a year trying to decide on a car I just never created a profile to logg in...... I'm in Columbus Ohio
I bought it at Byer's on the East side, and checked with them and the one on the North end for general maintenance but they don't have loaner cars or courtesy rides to get me to my house. (This outback is a second car) Plus they require appointments for even just an oil change....excuuuusssseeee me. This isn't a Porsche.


So how much should a clutch job cost me.... I've only worked on the Motorcycles and my old trucks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,034 Posts
A/C could be simply low refrigerant. Tha would be the first thing to check. Have the shop install refirgerant with dye in it so, if the leak is large, it can be found more seasily. My '03 stopped working, was almost a full can low, but after recharging is now working well. No sign of a leak. After a few years, you just lose refrigerant sometimes.

Two ways Freon gets out: someone evacuated it or it leaked. The number one AC repair I do on most cars is replace the service valves due to hardened seals allowing the Freon to leak out. The second is a seal somewhere in the system that also hardened and allowed a leak. The third is a line that leaks at the aluminum/neoprene joint. I rarely replace AC compressors. As long as all the seals on the system do their job, the Freon stays in the system.

And yeah, sounds like a clutch issue but also, if the engine was overfilled, it would increase the particulates that get fed into the air intake through the crankcase ventilation system and coat the idle control motor with more oil that would bake on. May want to get that removed and cleaned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
At idle, it sounds just as normal.
I'm not sure what that will do on moving, but is worth a try.
I can't find any information in my manual, but is this a model with a turbo, and if so, could the oil overfill have something to do with it?
I just can' get over the feeling that it isn't the clutch due to no 'symptoms' with the clutch play or travel, or in actually shifting between gears. We have a few steep slopes here and it acts normally....and why I ask what ARE the symptoms anyway.

Yea, with the AC it happened so suddenly.... working perfectly when I took it in, but No cool coming out at all when I picked it up.... I had no warning signs etc. I wonder......
I'm thinking if there is an easy way for me to top it off, then I may know. If it leaks off again, and suddenly, I'll know it was just a seal or compressor failure. (compressor is still running as I can hear it) If it doesn't I"m back in business and I catch the repair shop in bait tactics.

I'm ready to trash this vehicle. The whole thing is nonsensical. It is at home sitting in the drive. I can't stand to deal with it today.
I'll figure out where and what the idle control motor is when I get home, and if it stops raining.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
I am sorry to hear about your problems. I am in C-bus and have an '03, as well. Mine is an automatic, though. I have not used any dealerships in Columbus, so I cannot recommend a Subaru dealer. I have a friend who is a Nissan master tech and he works on my Subie, when needed. He does work on cars on a side is a lot cheaper than any dealership or repair shop. He's a great guy and a really good mechanic. If you can't find anyone to help, contact me and I will put the two of you in touch. Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks,
I am thinking of taking it to Fogles but would really like to have an idea what is wrong before I take it.
I really don't care about the A/C. It helps the defrost work, but isn't necessary.

I'm more concerned about it shifting into gear and seemingly not actually go into the gear for a while.??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks,
Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate the offer of contacting your personal mechanic. It is just that I've had some real nightmares with Incompetent Shade Tree Mechanics.

Additionally, if it is the Clutch, that means dropping the transmission which is about 150# of weight. If something happens, I'd be liable for the person's health costs. I'm not willing to take on that liability as the laws here in Columbus and Ohio as a whole.

Actually the only one [STMechanic] I've been happy with is the fellow down off of Karl Rd, S/Morse who is a Master HD mechanic. He is the only one who I'll let work on my MC's

[added 102512: I also found a good answer to the oil overfill; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/89-oil-fuel-discussion/16406-engine-oil-overfilled-resulting-damage.html ]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Hey all. Thanks again for the assistance.

It was the Clutch. The flywheel was cracked too.

Fogles repaired it and it is doing great.
Cost-is more than in line with the estimates given elsewhere in this forum.

about $1008 which includes the state tax at 6.75%
He did the clutch, flywheel et all. and replaced the CV boots (I think that's what they are called)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
how's the A/C?
apparently still out. It of course takes longer to defrost/defog the windshield, but it is winter. If there is moisture in the line, the damage is done.
I don't know what else to do about it.
A friend is trying to get me to use one of those aftermarket recharger kits from an autoparts store... IDunno.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,034 Posts
If the compressor is kicking on and off, that is a good sign.

I would not recommend using a quick fill can from the parts store. The additives tend to "sludge" in the AC system and clog the dryer, make the compressor work harder to move the freon which causes overheating of the compressor leading to failure. Subaru AC compressors are not cheap and down here at least, hard to come by even from salvage.

I have 2 sitting sealed up in the shop. One for a 2.2, late 90's, another fits 02-05?? 3.0 (came on the JDM engine).

Most likely it is a schrader valve, maybe the o-rings at the compressor where the lines bolt down. The most common leaks. These leaks are easily repaired then the system needs to be evacuated and recharged with proper amount of oil and freon. And clean freon without "sealers" added.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top