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2004 LL Bean EZ30 engine rebuild!

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Hey everyone I’m Andrew I’ve been a member for a few years now but don’t post much. We’re a Subaru family and my daughter is getting her learners permit in the spring so I figured her first car should be an Outback—sweet!

I picked up this 2004 Outback LL Bean edition for $800 (the dude probably got the better end of that deal lol). It was ran low on oil and developed a mystery knock. My question is would anyone be interested in following along as I pull the engine down and rebuild it?? I know my way around the 4 cylinders pretty good but the H6 is new to me so I’ll learn as I go and probably have a lot of questions for you folks.

If there’s interest I’ll post up some pics and such as I chip away at it. It’ll be a great project to get me through the winter. Anyway thanks for your time,

Andrew
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Haven’t named the car yet but she went under the knife this morning!

Pretty straight forward at this point. Remove all the intake components. Remove alternator—Remove power steering pump and move it to the side. Remove AC compressor and set it to the side. By setting them to the side the engine should (will on the 4cyl anyway) pull out without loosing any power steering fluid or R134a. That said I’ll flush the power steering anyway I’m sure it’s well overdue.

Look at this air filter! I don’t understand people maybe they just don’t know any better haha.

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Haha for sure! It’s sad really quality air filters are dirt cheap and so easy to change. Oh well nothing is going to surprise me on this car it’s been neglected bad. Hopefully I can breath new life into it over the next few months
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well I’m thinking I’ll pull the intake. I’ve heard it’s possible to get to the torque converter bolts with it in place but I don’t see how lol!
 

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I always pull the intake off because you got a straight shot to the torque converter bolts, plus you're swapping the intake manifold over anyway unless there's a problem with the intake manifold on your engine.

The other way is to take the throttle body off the intake manifold and you can get a wrench in there that way, but it's still more hassle than just taking the intake manifold off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thanks again fellas! I’ve pulled all the bell housing bolts, motor mounts—the mighty H6 is ready to come out except for the fuel lines. I don’t have the tool to separate these and they’re not clamped on the other end like the H4’s…. I hope hobo freight is open today they might have something that’ll work.

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Success! Dropped a few F bombs that scared the wifey and kids but were all good lol!

I screwed up big time. The engine finally separated (with force) but it pulled the torque converter out with it. I’m trying to install but I can’t get that third drop I will not go in. Did I ruin something? I’ve heard horror stories about these converters and ideas? Thanks again fellas,

Andrew.

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Found the issue. The circlip is damaged (wonder where the ear went—oye) so the torque converter wouldn’t seat all the way. The ol’ google said to pull the pump shaft out, install it on the torque converter with the circlip then install both as one unit.

I should have put a disclaimer at the top of the thread but I’ll do it now. I’m not a pro lol! I’m learning as I go but hopefully someone will learn from my mistakes if nothing else.

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Maybe a dumb question but how important is that snap ring? I can seat the torque converter fine without it…. Does it need to have that? Not really seeing what purpose it serves
 

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For those of you reading this thread, here's a bit of FYI. When pulling an engine off an automatic, after you get the torque converter bolts loose use a long flat bladed screwdriver down between the torque converter and flexplate and pry the torque converter out of the back of the crankshaft. You'll know you haven't loose because it'll move backwards into the transmission. That way when you pull the engine the torque converter stays there and the crankshaft doesn't pull the torque converter out.

Ask for that little snap ring, it holds the shaft into the torque converter. When you tighten the torque converter up against the flex plate it pulls the torque converter forward a few millimeters. That snap ring ensures that the shaft stays connected to the torque converter.

Keep working at it, you'll get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Is there an online place you guys like to order OEM/genuine Subaru parts from? My dealer is 50 miles away so it’s not really worth the drive if I can order online. Thanks again fellas!
 

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Is there an online place you guys like to order OEM/genuine Subaru parts from? My dealer is 50 miles away so it’s not really worth the drive if I can order online. Thanks again fellas!
if you look on amazon the dealer parts counters are competing head to head.
and I live 60 miles from 2 dealers,...both suck....the only reason I would consider driving to one, price vs. shipping of something physically large. (but my time / gasoline are worth something too,.
the last time I bought anything at one of those counters was 2002 era keys,...but any old hardware store can cut those now.)
 

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There's also a forum vendor @subaruonlineparts and they can give you a discount code if you message them - they are the online storefront for an actual Subaru dealership service department. It's possible you might get parts cheaper elsewhere but beware of counterfeits.


 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thanks fellas! My pickup is a 7.3 Superduty you would not believe the counterfeit parts out there for those. Ford/Motorcraft packaging and everything—it’s REALLY tough to tell the difference.

Anyway if I can support a vendor I’ll gladly do it. They might get annoyed with me though for all the odds and ends I’m gonna need lol
 
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