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2005 Outback LL Bean
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My positive battery terminal connector was loose, so I decided to replace both positive & negative terminals. I also put a new battery in it. Now she won’t start. All power comes on (dash lights, windows works, etc.) but when I try to start, she doesn’t turn over, I just hear three faint clicks.
I put my Foxwell tester on & got three codes: P0335, P0345, P0340 - crankshaft position sensor & camshaft position sensor.
Did I really fry these sensors by changing out the battery terminals? Anybody have this trouble or any suggestions before I spend the $$ on new sensors.
any suggestions are appreciated!

509120
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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any other parts to this story?

I might be tempted to try a coupla things. Disconnect the neg battery terminal and step on the brake pedal. maybe wait 5 minutes, then reconnect the batt. Then, cycle the security on/off a coupla times with the key fob. Then , without touching the gas pedal, start the car. If no luck, try in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
any other parts to this story?

I might be tempted to try a coupla things. Disconnect the neg battery terminal and step on the brake pedal. maybe wait 5 minutes, then reconnect the batt. Then, cycle the security on/off a coupla times with the key fob. Then , without touching the gas pedal, start the car. If no luck, try in neutral.
only piece I left out is after changing the battery terminals & before charging the battery, I tried jumpstarting the car using another car (didn’t work) - saw a YouTube of a guy with similar trouble that ended up having a bad battery that you couldn’t jumpstart thru, so I changed my battery, it was pretty old anyway.
 

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A few thoughts:

The painted replacement cable clamps might be a factor. There was a case here some time ago with similar symptoms where those type of clamps had been used. Turned out there was paint on the inner surface of the clamps. When tightened down on the battery post there was some continuity for lights, but not enough to run the starter motor. There could be paint or some coating on the contact area with the battery posts as well as where cables are held against the clamp.

Along the same lines, is that some grease showing in the joint between the clamp and battery posts (positive and negative)?

509122


Also, are the three clicks coming from the starter area, or elsewhere?

And, with all accessories etc turned off, doors closed, and only a map light turned on, when the key is turned to Start and there's the three clicks, does the map light stay bright, or does it dim significantly?
 

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2020 Outback Premier 2.5i
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Got a voltmeter? Check across both posts and then across both terminals and compare. If post reading is low, battery didn't take a charge (charger or battery defective). If terminal reading is low, bad connection as already stated. If both are good, check using exposed cable (can see some on the +ve side at least). Sorry to say that those are about the cheapest (i.e. worst) terminals you could have used.
 

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2021 Outback Touring XT, White
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My positive battery terminal connector was loose, so I decided to replace both positive & negative terminals. I also put a new battery in it. Now she won’t start. All power comes on (dash lights, windows works, etc.) but when I try to start, she doesn’t turn over, I just hear three faint clicks.
I put my Foxwell tester on & got three codes: P0335, P0345, P0340 - crankshaft position sensor & camshaft position sensor.
Did I really fry these sensors by changing out the battery terminals? Anybody have this trouble or any suggestions before I spend the $$ on new sensors.
any suggestions are appreciated!

View attachment 509120
I see grease in the positive post. Did you cover the post entirely with grease before putting on the connector? If so, there's your problem unless it is a conductive grease. Also there is a splice or something a few inches back from the positive connector. I would examine that for security and ensure that it is the same gauge wires you put together. Both those things can cause low amps to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got a voltmeter, 12.53 from post to post and from cable to cable.
Note: those terminals don’t have paint where they contact the posts, but they do have paint where they clamp down on the cables. Not in the channel for the cables, but where the bolts go thru, so I dremeled the paint off. The grease is battery corrosion preventative grease.
The splice is in the plastic flexy-conduit, not a cut in to any wire. But that smaller wire goes in to that fuse box next to the battery. I don’t know what it is (this car has nothing aftermarket on it, stereo, lights, etc..), I’m reluctant to take the fuse box apart - I’ve owned this car for a month, although I still love it, I’m feeling like if I touch something I’ll break it.. It might be time for a tow to the shop, or I swap out those sensors I mentioned in the OP. But I didn’t think those would cause it not to start, just runcrappy..
509229
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So just on the visible surface; not squeezed between the contacting surfaces?
it was on the contacting surfaces, it isn’t now. But I had 12.53 volts from terminal to terminal when it was & now without it.
 

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So to recap, the car ran fine before all of this; you just wanted to replace the terminals. You installed a new battery, replaced the terminals but did not accidentally hook the cables up backwards - not even for a second. You then attempted to start the engine but it will not even crank. A clicking solenoid (perhaps the starter one) is all you hear. What happens to the lights you mentioned when attempting to start? I'd say you have a wiring issue wrt the battery cables and by moving things around during the process you've compromised a connection somewhere. Perhaps a bad ground. Did you check the voltage at the starter? If not the same there is an issue in that cable. Examine both cables looking for corrosion, fraying or other damgae.
 

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Got a voltmeter, 12.53 from post to post and from cable to cable. . . . ..
If all of the electrical systems in the car were off at the time, measuring from terminal to terminal, or battery post to battery post, will not identify a problem in the related connections. A weak battery can read 12.6 V with no load, but put a light on, and it could drop a lot. Similarly, when measuring at the terminals (wire clamps), if there's no current flowing, the voltage will be the same as at the battery posts. However, if there is current flowing, especially if it's significant, and the contact between the battery post and the cables/wires is poor, the voltage will be lower at the latter.
 

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Got a voltmeter, 12.53 from post to post and from cable to cable.
Note: those terminals don’t have paint where they contact the posts, but they do have paint where they clamp down on the cables. Not in the channel for the cables, but where the bolts go thru, so I dremeled the paint off. The grease is battery corrosion preventative grease.
The splice is in the plastic flexy-conduit, not a cut in to any wire. But that smaller wire goes in to that fuse box next to the battery. I don’t know what it is (this car has nothing aftermarket on it, stereo, lights, etc..), I’m reluctant to take the fuse box apart - I’ve owned this car for a month, although I still love it, I’m feeling like if I touch something I’ll break it.. It might be time for a tow to the shop, or I swap out those sensors I mentioned in the OP. But I didn’t think those would cause it not to start, just runcrappy..
View attachment 509229
These sensors will not cause a “no cranking” problem.

If the engine is not cranking you have an electrical problem. Follow the testing suggestions above and report back what you find so further help can be offered if you want it.

Seagrass
 

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If all of the electrical systems in the car were off at the time, measuring from terminal to terminal, or battery post to battery post, will not identify a problem in the related connections.
Don't entirely agree. If you got a different reading across the terminals than across the posts, then there is a problem between one or both of the posts and its clamp - assuming the meter probes pierced any paint that is on the clamps. You could find out which one by measuring potentials between post and clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A clicking solenoid (perhaps the starter one) is all you hear. What happens to the lights you mentioned when attempting to start? I'd say you have a wiring issue wrt the battery cables and by moving things around during the process you've compromised a connection somewhere. Perhaps a bad ground. Did you check the voltage at the starter? If not the same there is an issue in that cable. Examine both cables looking for corrosion, fraying or other damgae.
The voltage at the starter is the same as the battery, 12.5. The clicking seems to be coming from the starter.
Still think bad connection or just bad timing for the starter to go out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The voltage at the starter is the same as the battery, 12.5. The clicking seems to be coming from the starter.
Still think bad connection or just bad timing for the starter to go out?
sorry for multiple posts, but I also checked the starter relay (7.5amp fuse under the dash), that looked fine.
 

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Repeat these tests while you try to start. If the voltage drops significantly, starter is drawing a load but not turning. If you checked the wiring as suggested and there is nothing wrong, my final 2 tests after ruling all else out would be
1- have someone attempt to start while tapping on the starter body with a hammer or similar, taking every precaution for my safety such as blocking wheels (I'd be more worried if this was a standard trans).
2- try starting with a boost, but I don't hold out much hope for that
It could very well be that your started is pooched but I'm more inclined to think you've missed a defect in a circuit somewhere. Make sure engine to body ground straps as well as main cables are all good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Repeat these tests while you try to start. If the voltage drops significantly, starter is drawing a load but not turning. If you checked the wiring as suggested and there is nothing wrong, my final 2 tests after ruling all else out would be
1- have someone attempt to start while tapping on the starter body with a hammer or similar, taking every precaution for my safety such as blocking wheels (I'd be more worried if this was a standard trans).
2- try starting with a boost, but I don't hold out much hope for that
It could very well be that your started is pooched but I'm more inclined to think you've missed a defect in a circuit somewhere. Make sure engine to body ground straps as well as main cables are all good.
The car started while I tapped the starter a hammer!!

thank you all so much for your help, suggestions & patience! One of the reasons I bought this car is because of this forum, although I didn’t think I’d need it so soon! 😁😁
 

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That often means the click is the solenoid moving but when it gets to the end of it's travel the main contacts are not being bridged by the solenoid, thus the motor doesn't engage. Usually that means the contacts are burnt. If the clicks are rapid, it means the solenoid pull-in operation is repeating itself since when it gets to the bridging stage, the pull in operation cuts out automatically. If the engine doesn't start and start function is held (e.g. push button) it cycles for as long as you hold the start button in. The solenoid works on low amperage, the mains are completing the high amperage circuit for the motor. Not true of all starters (old Ford ones for example). I suppose that's more than what you were looking for, but what the heck. I'd say "long story short" but I suppose that's too late. If your starter is old I'd venture to say it's coincidental but probably what you need. Hopefully I'm not full of it, but I'm here and you're there and that's the best I can do.
 

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you can get parts to rebuild the solenoid. contacts and if needed a plunger. Probably a youtube videoof how to do it as well.
 
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