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2005 OBXT 5MT - going in for 105K service tomorrow

4K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  Michael Aos 
#1 ·
It's at ~104.5K, but the timing is right to drop it off at the shop.

Also planning to get the rear sway bar end-links replaced at the same time. And figure out why the windshield washer isn't working.

Anything else I should consider while they have it?

Planning to have the windshield replaced and lots of tinting done later in the week, and then hopefully not spend a lot more money and just drive this thing.
 
#2 ·
Timing belt, all the idlers, the tensioner. Water pump is optional, ask for pricing. Coolant change if you missed it at 90k.

I just did this this past weekend :)
 
#15 ·
Coolant change if you missed it at 90k.
I see where the previous owner got an estimate for the 90K Service when the vehicle was at 91,404 on 10-Nov-2011.

I don't see where it was ever actually performed though...

Spark plugs were replaced at 94,002.

I kind of assumed the coolant would be changed when they replaced the water pump, there there's no mention of it on my bill.
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#3 ·
Parts:
Timing belt - 167.45
Timing Belt Tensioner - 168.63
2x Timing Belt Idler Pulley 13073AA142 - 170.98
Timing Belt Idler Pulley 13073AA230 - 85.49
Timing Belt Idler Pulley 13085AA880 - 94.67
Water Pump (OEM) - 165.95
Water pump gasket - 12.60
Oil pump o-ring - 6.40
Front Crank Seal - 8.57

Labor:
timing belt - 243
timing belt tensioner - 22.50
timing belt idlers - 180
water pump - 45
oil pump o-ring - 22.50
front crank seal - 22.50
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So right about $1500 out the door, with tax and shop supplies, etc.

They didn't do the cam seals though, which would have added a couple hundred dollars.

They also said they installed a new thermostat inside the new water-pump, but I don't see that as a line-item on my invoice.
 
#4 ·
agreed -i'd prefer the tensioner to be replaced at a minimum, the new style does fail. i would replace all the pulleys and water pump.

those prices are tough but i guess that's what it goes for. you can get a complete timing kit on ebay for like $200 - belt, tensioner, pulleys, etc....but you're not obviously going that route.

even if you want OEM Subaru parts the online places are about %20 cheaper, my local dealer will match those online prices. you'd save $100 - $200 via online pricing like subarugenuineparts.com, subarupartsforyou.com, liberty subaru, and other online Subaru OEM retailers. print them out a price list online and ask them if they'll match it or come close...?

$180 labor for the cam seals....that seems odd, the cam seals are right in front of your face once the timing belt is off. There is one extra bolt to remove to get at each cam seal. $180 to remove two bolts sounds a bit much.
 
#5 ·
I would ask if they would let you supply a gates timing belt kit.

The water pump is probably not necissary. Up to you if you want to do it for piece of mind.

I would skip the oil pump and all seals unless they see signs of leakage/seepage. You can end up have a bad install just as easily, and you won't know about it for a long time.

That should save you some coin with minimal risk.

I assume the 180 includes all seals, that's the crank and the four cams.

Tom
 
#6 ·
The water pump is probably not necissary. Up to you if you want to do it for piece of mind.
I'm not a mechanic, nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

I guess I just had the impression you should "always" replace the water pump when you do the timing belt.

This particular car spent much of it's early life in salty New York, if that makes any difference.
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#7 ·
The general consensus here is that the Subaru water pump will likely last to near 200k. Some replace it because it's a little hopeful for it to make it all the way to 200k. Others don't, realizing that they probably won't have the car until past 200k, or take the very good chance that it will last to the next timing belt change.

Change a part isn't without risks. A new water pump can fail early too (but outside warranty), or the install can go poorly. So weighing all those risks + cost makes it, in my mind, pretty close to an even trade to either do it or not.

Tom
 
#8 ·
When I bought the 2005 OBXT 5MT, I had a bunch of competing priorities.

Since I was coming from a 2011 Outback 2.5i Limited, "Fun to drive" was more toward the top (since the 2011 Outback wasn't fun at all).

Now that I've has the 2005 for a few months, I feel like my focus is more on dependability / reliability.

I'm PROBABLY going to replace the Outback in / by / around 2015 (and I typically only drive around 5K miles/yr), but the future is awfully hard to predict.
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#9 ·
In that case you can easily ignore the water pump. Old school Subaru's it's wise to replace them but the EJ pumps are very robust and rarely see issues due to their short and stout nature. Still a good choice to replace and I generally do, but if you're only going to put 15,000 miles...or 30,0000 miles on the car don't bother. Basically do whatever you want it's not a big deal nor will it ever be relevant during your ownership.
 
#10 ·
I wound up having the water-pump replaced.

I had already authorized it, and they already had the parts.

I've noticed a "hot" / burnt smell a couple times since I got it back.

Right now I'm assuming something dropped onto the exhaust during the maintenance and will burn-off before too long.
 
#11 ·
In my book, ya did good. First OB we bought for the wife had been passed through a family & the current owners had NO history available. Did the timing belt for insurance & found that the WP was seeping due to having failed the bearing (spit several ball bearings which roughed up the crank sprocket). Without history, or considerable skill with a Ouija board, I recommend the overkill approach!
 
#13 ·
Does it smell sweet? The water pump is right above the exhaust. They probably got some coolant on the exhaust.

BUT, keep an eye on your coolant level. When I changed my water pump I had a small tear in one of the hoses down by the water pump which did 'drip drip drip' on the exhaust. Never saw the puddle, but notice a sweet smell, a tiny amount of steam, and a slowly lowering coolant level. Mine was in the heater bypass hose, but there are three small hoses down there.

Tom
 
#17 ·
Yes, they could have simply pored the old coolant back in. I did that after draining the system to replace the hose. They would have added coolant to the list of itemized parts if they used new, as they tend to like to nickle and dime.

Tom
 
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