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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched the forum for any info/recommendations on rebuilding a 5M Tranny in an '05 Outback with 190K miles.

It is getting tough to shift. Tranny is still functional but I want to get ahead of this and have my options ready for maybe a spring 2018 rebuild.

From other cars I have typically only had to replace 1st and 2nd gear synchros and while the gears are out, I will replace 1st and 2nd gear drive and driven bearings (possibly 3rd gear too).

I am not familiar, however, with the transfer case that is attached to the front of the tranny that powers the front wheels.

Are there any clutch packs that need replacement? Are there any bearings prone to failure? Are there any seals prone to failure?

Do any members from the Philly/Jersey area have a shop that is capable of doing this that wont rip me off?

If there are any good threads that cover this topic I would appreciate a link. Thank you for any help.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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26,193 Posts
people don't typically rebuild regular subaru transmissions,...be them manual or automatics.

vs. just looking for a lower miles one out of a wreck and dropping it in.

I would think the only ones that do get rebuilt are things that are special or rare. (like some JDM STI that got abused racing).

that said,..you are looking for a legacy outback trans, (plain legacy, impreza, forester, could all have different ratios).
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Most of the trannys from wrecked ones are high mileage. I haven't seen one w less than 160k miles on it.

I don't mind paying for a good transmission guy to do it, just don't know any good transmission mechanics in the Philly area.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,618 Posts
what is the complaint? Maybe it's a hydraulic clutch or shifter bushing problem? or, did the trans get filled with synthetic GL-5 ? Some folks report 'clashing' with synthetic fluid. Probably due to synchros not slowing enough?
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,119 Posts
what is the complaint? Maybe it's a hydraulic clutch or shifter bushing problem? or, did the trans get filled with synthetic GL-5 ? Some folks report 'clashing' with synthetic fluid. Probably due to synchros not slowing enough?
It's probably just a regular Subaru 5sp.

Not known for 1-to-2-smoothness...or any gear for that matter downshifting to 2nd or 1st. Sheesh, there is Zero rolling-downshift-into-1st...No Sir, I don't like it. They are OK when the have 30K miles on them. But there is a reason I sourced my XTs with the 5EATs. The few used manuals I drove were somewhat of a chore.

No manual offense meant. I just suspect the OP just wants to fix the clunky-chunky
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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26,193 Posts

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Registered
2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
It functions fine but 1st to 2nd is really heavy and rough. No sound to suggest a bad release bearing but I'll definitely replace when I remove the tranny. Sitting at a stop then going into 1st is very rough and sometimes the gears do seem to mesh. Again, it still functions fine.

I just hope to find a trustworthy mechanic to rebuild once I need to.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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1,553 Posts
It functions fine but 1st to 2nd is really heavy and rough. No sound to suggest a bad release bearing but I'll definitely replace when I remove the tranny. Sitting at a stop then going into 1st is very rough and sometimes the gears do seem to mesh. Again, it still functions fine.

I just hope to find a trustworthy mechanic to rebuild once I need to.
Before condemning the transmission, I'd do the "First to Reverse" test to confirm the clutch is actually disengaging like it should.

For those out-of-the-know, disengaging the clutch (foot to the floor) should cause the input shaft to stop or slow from engine speed. This slowing allows the sacrificial synchronizer to align the teeth of the sliding collar and the gear in question without grinding the steel teeth of the collar or gear. The "notchy" feeling (or downright rejection) comes from the resistance of the synchro and gear not aligning smoothly when the collar is locking.

The first-to-reverse test is performed with the car running, depress the clutch to the floor. Keep the clutch pedal depressed until the end of the test. Shift into first gear. Then quickly and swiftly, but without severe force, shift into reverse. If reverse gear grinds or does not accept the gear change, your input shaft is still spinning too fast and can indicate a clutch hydraulic problem (air in the line, poor actuation, plugged cylinders, etc) or a mechanical clutch problem (broken/cracked fork, worn or failing pressure plate and friction disc).
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The first to reverse test seems fine. After further examination my only real complaint is first gear. If I sit at a stoplight with the car in neutral the first gear will often crunch when I quickly place it into first when the light turns green. I am not sure if I am causing damage or if damage already exists. This may also be A known symptom of this transmission type.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,618 Posts
could be a different fluid would help but, that complaint isn't uncommon.

try these; blip the throttle, then select first OR wait for a 3-4 count after depressing the clutch and select first.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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Discussion Starter #11
The four-count definitely works. I only mention it because sometimes I don't see the light turned green and I quickly throw it into first simply to avoid backing up traffic. When that happens I often get the crunch.
 
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