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2005 Outback 2.5i (Non California edition)
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I’m posting here about my mother’s car. My parents have decided that it’s unsafe to drive because of the issue it’s having so they decided to use my car for everything. That’s kinda annoying to me but I guess I’m not really in a position to say much. Anyway, the car started to idle rough a few months back and eventually a problem arose where the car would sputter while on the road and pressing the gas pedal has no influence on power meaning that you can’t accelerate when this is happening. The car shakes a good bit as well. They took it into a mechanic twice. They said that it was probably the fuel pump and filter so they replaced those. This didn’t fix the problem so we took it to another mechanic when the problem happened again. They were stumped. The issue didn’t show itself to him while he had the car so he didn’t know what to look for. Since then it’s been sitting in the driveway. When you start it it idles really rough at (on a cold start) between 600-700 RPM. Tap the gas pedal and it goes up to the 1,000 it should be around and it’s smooth. It’s worth noting that the car had a similar issue in the past. The car wouldn’t totally stop making power but it would miss when you first hit the gas. The distributor was replaced and the problem was fixed. I’m no expert, but I can see that the replacement distributor is not an OEM part and doesn’t seem to be very high quality. It’s an unmarked grey box that has the cylinder numbers written on it in sharpie. I’d assume that this is the reason for this issue but I want to see what other people think about it. (This replacement distributor is only a year old) the car has another electrical issue with the passenger seatbelt sensor and this has been tested to not be related to the dome light issue. For what that bit is worth. Thank you for any help you can offer
 

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Registered
2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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6,119 Posts
Which engine is this?

Have the spark wires ever been replaced?

Any codes thrown you could post here?
 

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Registered
2005 Outback 2.5i (Non California edition)
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
This is the 2.5i engine. The spark plugs and wires were replaced at the time the distributor's replacement. The guy at the second shop said that there was an oxygen sensor code (the check engine light has been on for the last 100,000 miles) and a couple "unknown" codes. I don't have these codes off hand. Here's a picture of the distributor so you can see what I mean when I describe it.
 

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2016 WRX, 2017 BRZ, 2017 Legacy
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366 Posts
You definitely need the codes. Post them here, we've probably seen something similar before.

Once we can determine that it really is a misfire, and on which cylinder, the process is to move things (plugs, coils, injectors) around and see if the misfire moves too. That will narrow it to down to either a specific component or a cylinder.

Then we'll move on from there.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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26,194 Posts

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
Joined
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26,194 Posts
This is the 2.5i engine. The spark plugs and wires were replaced at the time the distributor's replacement. The guy at the second shop said that there was an oxygen sensor code (the check engine light has been on for the last 100,000 miles) and a couple "unknown" codes. I don't have these codes off hand. Here's a picture of the distributor so you can see what I mean when I describe it.


what code for the o2 sensor?
(front o2 sensors do as you describe, as they control the whole car, the code would be something like p013X) X= another #.



______

and yeah a none OEM coil pack = distributor. is a known problem. cheapos can last a few thousand miles and then fail, and some aftermarkets are more expensive then OEM).

what plugs and wires were used? subaru likes NGK. plugs and wires. (and a OEM coil pack, I would take a $20 used one out of a pick and pull vs. aftermarkets)



all of the above make minor misfires which may not be caught by the diagnostic system as a stored code. but what you see is a flashing check engine light. and a loss of power that can't be fixed by giving more gas.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i (Non California edition)
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I connected the two white connectors near the fusebox which make the codes show. The only code shown was P0154. There were no C codes. The spark plug wires were replaced with the distributor.
 

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06 Outback 2.5i
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405 Posts
+1 on Subaru liking NGK plugs and wires

What plugs and wires are in there now?

I'd get that non-OEM coil pack out of there
 

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2005 Legacy GT wagon 5MT Limited
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320 Posts
US, Canada, other? Filling out the relevant info in your profile would save a lot of annoying questions.
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,318 Posts
Here's my suggestion: check the battery output, cables and grounding

If the car had numerous error codes stored, the shop erased them and didn't provide you with a copy of the codes, I will assume that as with other Subarus, and really all vehicles with multiple systems running, that the codes were/are related to poor conductance from the battery or low battery output. I'm talking amperage output, not voltage. The battery can show 12V and only put out 100 amps. Not enough to run all the computers and the inputs/outputs. Start there. Simple things first. Complicated just leads you back to the simple.

If the O2 sensor code is the only one stored right now, it may need an O2 or the connection is bad. You can check that when you check the grounding.
 

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Registered
2005 Outback 2.5i (Non California edition)
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I don't have the tool to remove the spark plugs but the spark plug wires are Packard r-16-aips. I'd assume that the spark plugs are not NGK but I'm not sure.
 
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