[Goober Subie]

I have a 2005 OBXT w/ 96k miles. Stage 2 (Accessport + COBB uppipe and downpipe). I'm pretty good about changing oil ever 4k miles or so w/ full synthetic. Banjo filter has been removed. I want to get a good 5 more years out of the car (pushing the OD past 150k miles):

1) Should I start looking into replacing the turbo now?
2) If so, any recommended turbos (and how much should I expect to pay for the turbo plus install)?
3) When should I replace the timing belt?

 

[Seabass]

Replace the timing belt soon. It's due at 105k. Make sure to do the belt, idlers, water pump, tensioner, and thermostat at that time. As for the turbo, remove the bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo and the bolt that mounts the downpipe to the transmission and pull back the downpipe. Wiggle the exhaust turbine sideways and in and out. If there is noticeable play in it, then replace ASAP. If it feels solid and you can just barely notice play, then don't waste your money unless you want a bigger turbo.

 

[Scooba Steve]

from what i have seen of failing turbos on subi's your probably good. most of them make it upward 150k dosent mean you shouldn't check it out wile your in there, as sea bass stated.
Personally i would use your fear as an excuse to buy some new tools, and get your hands dirty. these are both jobs you could do in your garage by your self or with helping hand. one of the first mechanic jobs i ever took on my self was a 96 lego timing belt water pump, breeze work. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-replacement-2-5t-106809.html good link on timing belt replacement 2.5T'S.
i would be expecting at least another 10 years of life out of your wagon,(250k) if maintained properly.:29:

 

[Seabass]

from what i have seen of failing turbos on subi's your probably good. most of them make it upward 150k dosent mean you should not check it out wile your in there, as sea bass stated.
Personaly i would be expecting at least another 10 years of life out of your wagon,(250k) if maintained properly.:29:

There are turbo problems specific to this platform. It's worth the effort of checking the health of the turbo. They do have a bad habbit of assploding.

 

[tdelker]

I've used the starter trick before to break the crank bolt loose, but how does one retorque it? How do you get to the slot to lock the engine with a turbo intercooler on there? Are there any gaskets to replace if I am removing my intercooler?

Thanks for any help!

Tom

 

[Seabass]

Intercooler and turbo are towards the back of the engine bay. Remove radiator fans, the top radiator hose, and the hose assembly on top of the radiator and the front of the engine is easily accessible.

As for removing and retorquing the crank bolt, try to find a large enough chain wrench that will fit over the crank pulley. Use an old belt under the chain wrench to keep from damaging the pulley. That will be plenty with a breaker bar.

 

[tdelker]

I was wanting to use the hole in the back of the engine that allows access to lock up the drive shaft between the automatic transmission and the engine that it seems like people without the turbo use to keep the engine from turning over. Like post #5 here:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...47370-crank-shaft-pulley-tigtening-ideas.html

I believe that hole is below the intercooler?

Of course the other option is chain wrench, but I prefer to avoid the risk of dinging up the crank pulley, but if that hole is too hard to get to, then it's the next best thing.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Seabass]

That's why you use an old belt under the chain.

 

[kduchow]

I have a 2005 XT as well. One of the early ones delivered in August of 2004 (I bought it used in 2007). I put less than 10k on it a year and it only has 70k on it now. Would you guys recommend changing the timing belt early, based on some number of months rather than miles? It could be as much as 4 more years before I get to 105k and over 10 years seems like a long time for a timing belt.

 

[Seabass]

FYI, for Subaru's maintenance intervals, 1k miles = 1 month, or whichever is smaller. IOW, 105k interval for timing belt also means 105 months. So every 8 years and 9 months.

 

[kduchow]

Thanks. That's sort of what I suspected. Due within the year than. Oh, fun.

Are the after market kits that are out there worth looking into, or is this one of those places where it is worth getting the Subaru parts?

 

[Seabass]

IMO, go for gates. The whole kit with belt, pulleys, waterpump, and tensioner was less than $300.

 

[Billfer]

172K original timing belt, plugs and WP. FTW!!!!

Decided the car runs well enough to keep. Changing them tomorrow.

 

[subiesailor]

I have a 2005 XT as well. One of the early ones delivered in August of 2004 (I bought it used in 2007). I put less than 10k on it a year and it only has 70k on it now. Would you guys recommend changing the timing belt early, based on some number of months rather than miles? It could be as much as 4 more years before I get to 105k and over 10 years seems like a long time for a timing belt.

The general rule 105 months or 105K which ever comes first.

 

[subiesailor]

Regarding turbo age I asked a buddy about this who was rebuilding his Audi all road he custom ordered it new years ago, and just a while back replaced the air ride system and then recently replaced the turbos.

His logic matches what most folks tell me who know turbos. You check them for any sign of bearing slop and or you make a call on their age, use maint history etc and simply replace them.

You always REPLACE them before they Fail!

In his case 120,000 miles on the originals and he had a considerable investment in the car which he really likes MT 2.7L All Road he bought new via order. So for him it was an easy call to simply replace the turbos at 120K and move on. He'll probably put 300K on that car with very little to no major mechanical issues but he's willing to invest the $$$ to keep it proper.

 

[Billfer]

Replace Belt @ 172K

This was the first time I have ever been under the hood. To be honest for 172,000 miles. It looked really good. Parts were super clean.

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I compared belts with the new and old. The old belt stretched .20" the tensioner was completely at full travel. So it was time.

Water Pump

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Felt super smooth. Not leaking good for 200k easy. I actually reused the old WP gasket because the supplied paper was inferior.

Summery. Not a job for rookies. Room for gaffs abound. Over tightening flanges, cross threads, cutting corners and really fucking up your timing. IF you've never done this job before the best advice I can give is buy new hoses and **** can the old hose clamps. Use the right tools and TAKE your TIME.