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It runs! it was the o ring on top of the fuel pump. After I tried it without an o ring there was no sputter like there was after I put the new filter in, so I went thru my o ring collection and found one that fit and it started right up! No I have 2 flat tires to deal with from sitting for so long but thats easy. Thank you guys for all your help, I would still be replacing parts lol. Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!
Fantastic.

In summary, as I understand the saga, a bad o-ring caused the car not to start due to loss of pressure, but it wasn't identified. Replacing the pump motor and then the filter didn't correct the problem because the bad o-ring was still in there. Removing the o-ring worsened the symptom (no sputter versus some sputter), and replacing with a new o-ring solved the no-start problem.

Something to learn, and keep in mind . . .
 

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If I understand this correctly, you're referring to the fuel pulsation damper that is in the fuel delivery line in the engine compartment area.

The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel pump assembly and therefore is (well) before the damper. It's shown in the photos above.

The input to the regulator is directly from the large fuel filter on the fuel pump. If the pressure is high, the regulator opens, allowing excess pressure to be bled off by dumping fuel directly back into the fuel tank. If the regulator were to be broken such that the dump valve is wide open all the time, the pressure in the fuel delivery line could be seriously low.
Thanks for the clarification

Seagrass
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Fantastic.

In summary, as I understand the saga, a bad o-ring caused the car not to start due to loss of pressure, but it wasn't identified. Replacing the pump motor and then the filter didn't correct the problem because the bad o-ring was still in there. Removing the o-ring worsened the symptom (no sputter versus some sputter), and replacing with a new o-ring solved the no-start problem.

I’m so happy my car runs! I kept trying things without really knowing what I was doing, but now I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to fix any future no start issues. I had to have a valve stem replaced but then I had to make sure it was gonna stay working so I went for a long ride. I have way more power than before. I hope I never have to mess with a fuel tank again, I feel like I’m breathing out gas fumes. Thank you so much for all your help, I had a guy that works at Subaru here and he told me that because there’s no code it was gonna take a while to find the problem and they would probably charge me around $1500 to find the problem and fix it. I think I spent about 4-500 on parts and tools but it would have been best to start with a test light, spark tester, fuel pressure tester and Subaruoutback.org lol, I would have save the many hours and frustration. I was so sure it was gonna start after installing so many parts, but it never did.
 

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Thanks for your feedback, the collective wisdom on this site, especially for older models is quite awesome and many of us have benefited from the kind hearted responses of members. Good to hear you are one of the many.

Seagrass
 

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Discussion Starter #45
This car is trying to drive me crazy! I was just driving and I was at a red light and had no power when the light turned green. I pumped the gas a few times and it went. I got on the highway and when I got off, same thing, no power. When I just got home I turned the car off and the brakes lights and parking lights stay on with the key off. I had to disconnect the battery to get them to turn off.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
This car is trying to drive me crazy! I was just driving and I was at a red light and had no power when the light turned green. I pumped the gas a few times and it went. I got on the highway and when I got off, same thing, no power. When I just got home I turned the car off and the brakes lights and parking lights stay on with the key off. I had to disconnect the battery to get them to turn off.
The lights staying on was just the parking light button. The car is throwing 2 codes, p0031, p0037. I wonder if that plastic piece popped off inside the airbox.
 

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The lights staying on was just the parking light button. The car is throwing 2 codes, p0031, p0037. I wonder if that plastic piece popped off inside the airbox.
No, not the airbox.

Does the engine start/run?

If the codes are cleared, do they reappear with the ignition turned just to On, or shortly after the engine is started?

The codes are for exhaust O2 sensor heater control power loss, for both the front A/F Sensor and the Rear O2 Sensor.

Just one code often indicates a bad heater in the corresponding sensor, but the same fault in both sensors at the same time is unusual. More likely something common to both, such as the heater power supply.

Check that the two sensor connectors are securely connected to their mating engine harness connectors at the front of the engine.

The sensor connectors each have four wires. Two are probably black, for the heater (if they are Denso sensors, not sure about others). Measure the resistance between the two black wires at each connector. Should be ~5 Ohms.

At each engine harness connector there's four wires, one of which is green. Measure the voltage at the green wire contacts when the ignition is at On (engine not started). There should be battery voltage at each.

If not, then check slow-blow fuses SBF-5 and SBF-7 (30 Amps each) in the engine compartment fuse box.

If there's power to the harness connectors, and the heater resistance is good in both, then the problem is in the connection from the downstream side of the sensor heaters to the ECM, or in the ECM itself. This involves separate wiring to, and separate circuits in, the ECM, so it's less likely the fault is in this area, but not impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
479380

I cleared the codes, they don’t come back on until started. I noticed that when the car is running there’s no action on o2 sensor 1. The front exhaust and o2 sensors were replaced less than a year ago.
 

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I cleared the codes, they don’t come back on until started.
Okay, so a definite pair of faults that triggers the CEL as soon as they are detected.

I noticed that when the car is running there’s no action on o2 sensor 1. The front exhaust and o2 sensors were replaced less than a year ago.
No action because without the heater working the ECM doesn't make use of the sensor; it runs on the basis of preset tables in the computer ROM. It's less efficient, more emissions, but the engine can run.

Again, not highly likely both sensors failed at the same time in the same way, although not impossible. Look at the heater resistance and the other areas suggested for problems.
 
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