[protivakid]

Old post but still relevant and I wish someone had replied to you. Mine look exactly like this. Not completely cracked like some pictures I have seen but many little cracks like your picture.

Can anyone on here chime in with when to replace recommendations?

 

[traildogck]

The above bushing is fine...the pics below are ones you want to look out for.

 

[protivakid]

The above bushing is fine...the pics below are ones you want to look out for.

Thanks for the fast response. I don't think mine were that bad but I will check again.

 

[protivakid]

How do these look? Fine for a bit or need doing?

If they need replacing I am considering trying the Energy Suspension 19.3102 bushings. I've installed Energy brand bushings on a couple other cars and have had decent luck.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...-ob-suspension-stock-height-2-drop-max-3.html

 

[protivakid]

Bump

 

[traildogck]

The above are NOT really worn out at all...The small cracks are OK, it's the big tears I have pics of above.

I do NOT like the NRG Suspension bushing here. Poly is very hard, and I don't like the design...but that's me...

 

[protivakid]

The above are NOT really worn out at all...The small cracks are OK, it's the big tears I have pics of above.

I do NOT like the NRG Suspension bushing here. Poly is very hard, and I don't like the design...but that's me...

Thanks for the help!

 

[patrikman]

The above are NOT really worn out at all...The small cracks are OK, it's the big tears I have pics of above.

I do NOT like the NRG Suspension bushing here. Poly is very hard, and I don't like the design...but that's me...

OEM? Or is there a " group N" type bushing that works?

 

[traildogck]

OEM? Or is there a " group N" type bushing that works?

There is a group N, and there are the STI as well. Both are upgrades over stock.

WhiteLine makes a poly one with voids and it is bonded to a sleeve like the OEM style.

Megan Racing also makes a solid hard rubber one, I have used those in a steel set of LCAs and plan to press them into my JDM aluminum arms.

 

[patrikman]

There is a group N, and there are the STI as well. Both are upgrades over stock.

WhiteLine makes a poly one with voids and it is bonded to a sleeve like the OEM style.

Megan Racing also makes a solid hard rubber one, I have used those in a steel set of LCAs and plan to press them into my JDM aluminum arms.

Do I dare by the weird cheap aluminum arms when it's time? Do they come with the bushings already? The rear suspension will be addressed first on this car. Just put snows on it, needs all seasons as well. Probably going to need an AVCS solenoid, needs plugs too.

 

[ChangoMango]

How about these, nice and cheap:
And if those bushings are so cracked, why not just replace them?
Aren't they bound to die soon anyways?

 

[ChangoMango]

whered my pist go

 

[ChangoMango]

Shouldn't the cracked bushings be replaced soon? Someone posted them saying they weren't worn "at all" but clearly they are. Mine are like this and I'm wondering if it's causing a clunk upon hitting bumps, or if it is something else like a strut mount that is ripped. The control arm bushings looked cracked in many places but not ripped.

 

[rsrocket1]

No you don't need to replace bushings that are radially cracked. They are still holding the center fixture just fine and are able to keep twisting and return to their original position.

If you take your car to a dealer, they will tell you the bushings are cracked and will offer to replace them for $$$. They are telling you the truth, they are cracked, but they aren't telling you these are no longer doing their job.

You can get replacement bushings for about $15 or as low as $5 and press out/press in the replacements. At that point you might as well swap out the ball joints for another $17. The horizontal bushing is another $15, but it takes almost no stress so you can really get away with never replacing it.

If you live in the rust belt, you should closely examine the control arm for rust. If the paint gets chipped off, it is a starting point for rust. I've seen some LCA's on Youtube videos where they literally broke apart from rust. The "cheap aluminum" arms are not prone to rust and they are not cheap (depending on your definition of "cheap"). The Mevotechs are about $30-$40 more expensive than the Doorman steel arms.

Did I need to replace my bushings? Eventually, yes. These had 138,000 miles on them. They may have held up for another year but I wanted to get an alignment on the 4 wheels anyway so this would be a good time to change the entire arm and not bother with pressing out bushings.

You can see that most of the LCA was in very good shape but there were some exposed spots. If they were continuously doused in road salts, they would have been badly rusted.

 

[protivakid]

Fixing my links since I can't edit my old post

How do these look? Fine for a bit or need doing?

If they need replacing I am considering trying the Energy Suspension 19.3102 bushings. I've installed Energy brand bushings on a couple other cars and have had decent luck.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...-ob-suspension-stock-height-2-drop-max-3.html

 

[rsrocket1]

protivakid,
IMO, they look like they're still doing their job, the circumferential cracks are just age and are showing because you have the car lifted up and the control arm hanging down. The stress shows that most of the rubber is still intact and holding the bolt and control arm together.