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Discussion Starter #1
I was about to replace the spark plugs on my 09 Outback 2.5 (90k) when I noticed oil near the top of the spark plug cable boot as I pulled it out. There is no oil down inside the tube just near the top. I went to the dealer and after providing my VIN number I purchased two valve cover and four spark plug tube gaskets for $75.00. Once back in my garage I started on the passenger side and removed all the 10mm bolts on the valve cover.

Now I'm faced with two problems. First I was able to pull the cover off but unable to get it out as there is very little clearance because of the frame. I tried removing it from the top, bottom and backward and forward with no luck. I was able to reach in and remove one of the seals/gasket on the top of the spark plug tube and to my disappointment it did not match with the new ones I had just purchased from the dealer. Mine area a bit larger than the new ones which are part number 10966AA030 so I plan to take them back to the dealer tomorrow.

Can anyone give me some advise on removing the passenger side valve cover and is there a trick to removing the drivers side valve cover also?
 

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2006 Wagon 2.5i M/T
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37 Posts
Cover Removal

According to the service literature, the injector covers, injector rails and injectors have to be removed. This should provide the room to remove the valve covers from above. More info on this thread:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/48018-valve-cover.html

Regarding the injectors - it is best that the injector's o-rings and manifold grommets not be re-used.

Yes, it looks like is a real pain - I'm not looking forward to it myself.

I miss my old 22RE Toyota pickup - wish their frames didn't rust like they did.
 

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2006 Wagon 2.5i M/T
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Altrnatively...

A bit more research suggests that alternatively, the engine mounts can be disconnected and the engine raised enough to get clearance.

Please respond describing what you decided to do and how the work went. This forum has far too many threads that go into a sort of limbo without any kind of closure.
 

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2006 Wagon 2.5i M/T
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Not suspense, frustration. Lots of threads have been posted regarding this particular valve cover issue, but none of them ever come to any conclusions becasue the OP and everyone else vanishes - like a meeting where suddenly, mid-discussion, everyone suddenly just gets up and goes home.

I'm not encountering this in any other technical internet fora I am involved in. But I wandering way off-topic.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT, 1984 Porsche 944
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276 Posts
I'll chime in: I replaced the valve covers on my 06 and had to remove the fuel injectors to get the covers off. I also had to jack up the engine to gain access to a rounded-bolt on the driver side. After I jacked up the engine, I saw that I could have removed the valve covers by only jacking up the engine and not removing the injectors.

I replaced the injector seals (3 per injector) in the process. They were about $1.50 per set on Rock Auto.
 

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2006 Wagon 2.5i M/T
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Thanks! Your old thread was exactly the one I was thinking of. Case closed.

I'd assume undoing the motor mounts (just two bolts or nuts?) and jacking the motor up is probably the easier approach for most DIYers.
 

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"Honey Badger" 2005 OBXT Limited 5EAT 108K+ miles
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when i had my VCGs replaced, they jacked the motor up. i took the opportunity to replace my engine mounts at the same time.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT, 1984 Porsche 944
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Hope I'm not too late. Jacking up the engine requires removing the two engine mount nuts located on the subframe, AND unbolting the anti-torque arm located above the bell housing. You should have a pretty good amount of travel after removing those three things. Make sure you place a board or something under the oil pan so you don't punch a hole through it.
 

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2006 Wagon 2.5i M/T
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Yes, I noticed that anti-tip strut attaching the engine to the firewall.

I would think that you also should detach or at least least loosten the bolts attaching the exhaust header/cat assembly to the engine before jacking - to prevent possible exhaust pipe damage.
 

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2006 WX8, 59E
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I also wanted to mention the exhaust. It seems that it needs to be disconnected either at the cylinder heads, or at the flexible joint, given that after unbolting the two engine mounts, the engine and transmission will be pivoting on the transmission mount in the rear. The exhaust after the converter is held by flexible hangers, but it can't really move downwards. Disconnecting the flex joint is probably safe enough.
 

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'09 Outback 2.5 Limited
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I just did this job on my 2009 OB yesterday. I only needed to remove the nuts from the engine mounts. By jacking up the engine slightly and pushing it over to one side, I was able to remove the covers without removing the injectors and injector covers. The side to side motion was key, a couple of degrees makes a big difference. I definitely recommend clearing the top of the valve cover with compressed air prior to breaking the seal. **** that was a lot of sand/dirt/etc sitting up there just waiting to fall in...
 

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bumping this thread

So I have a 2008 2.5i outback and pulling the spark plug shows oil on the boot.
I've read many of this threads but still not sure on a few things:

Does the engine need to be lifted at all?
Do the fuel injectors need to be removed?
Anybody has a step by step like that Legacy RS site did?

thanks

joey
 

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2006 OBW 2.5i 4at LTD
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184 Posts
bumping this thread

So I have a 2008 2.5i outback and pulling the spark plug shows oil on the boot.
I've read many of this threads but still not sure on a few things:

Does the engine need to be lifted at all?
Do the fuel injectors need to be removed?
Anybody has a step by step like that Legacy RS site did?

thanks

joey
Your questions are answered above in the text and the video.
 
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