[emigh]

Recently replaced both front Lower Control Arms (OEM), sway bar links front and rear (MOOG), struts (KYB G-Excel), Strut mounts (KYB). The rear struts were replaced first and the handling improved (test drive) did everything else in one go, and it drove worse. Worse as in floaty and less connected. It seems like the front is riding a little higher. I didn't replace the springs. For the record, I've owned this for less than a year, so it's possible one of the previous owners had higher quality shocks up front..... Everything lined up good and looked to match what was being taken off. Did have the alignment done afterwards.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

odd, can you describe the symptom better?

steering OK - not 'grabby'?

any noises?

have all the bolts/nuts involved been inspected? axle nuts, lugnuts too?

did you change anything else? like tires?

 

[77'911]

You might check your tie rod assemblies.
Regards

 

[avenger09123]

Since that's the only thing you didn't replace, up to you there.

I went from OEM everything with 75k on them to new front struts (KYB)(nothing else new in the strut assembly) and new LCA's (mevotech), front went from like 8 bounces to flat to just 2, and it has always been one of the most floaty boat-like cars I have ever driven.

Rebounding is dampened quite a bit now. The difference is feel-able between the front and the rears which are still OEM when going over a bump. Still a big effin boat.

 

[subiesailor]

The 10-14’s are floaty under damped always has been. I have a 10 since new. In my case we are usually loaded with people and gear nearly every time we go anywhere. 100,000 the rear oem springs are done. Im thinking of getting the RalliTEK built struts that use the kby shock and RalliTEK spring which is slightly higher load rating than oem for the rear. Some have swapped out the rear sway bar for a wrx 19mm bar to tighten up the handling some on the stock struts. Mine is all stock right now. The wagon is flexy especially compared to the 10 legacy which I bought my mom much stiffer better driving platform.

The 15’s I think have a different strut or shock and are far better but Subaru also stiffened up the wagon chassis by a considerable amount for the 15’s.

 

[Jon89]

Interesting thread. Our 2013 3.6R has 38,700 miles on it and I have always considered it to be pretty well planted, even at 85 to 90 mph on the interstate. Compared to our multiple Jeep Cherokees back in the 1980s and even my wife's previous 2004 Lexus RX330, the ride and handling of our Outback has been quite satisfactory to me. Maybe I need to pay more attention to it.

 

[eagleeye]

The 10-14’s are floaty under damped always has been. I have a 10 since new. In my case we are usually loaded with people and gear nearly every time we go anywhere. 100,000 the rear oem springs are done. Im thinking of getting the RalliTEK built struts that use the kby shock and RalliTEK spring which is slightly higher load rating than oem for the rear. Some have swapped out the rear sway bar for a wrx 19mm bar to tighten up the handling some on the stock struts. Mine is all stock right now. The wagon is flexy especially compared to the 10 legacy which I bought my mom much stiffer better driving platform.

The 15’s I think have a different strut or shock and are far better but Subaru also stiffened up the wagon chassis by a considerable amount for the 15’s.

13-14 outbacks should have slightly stiffer strut on them then 2010-12. (and I think some here have upgrade to the later type)

subaru decided then to stop giving a crap about competing with the expensive / rarely sold toyota venza couch wagon,...and get back to the way a outback "should" ride.

what sucks: KYB may make struts, but I think you can only buy them through subaru.

 

[traildogck]

13-14 outbacks should have slightly stiffer strut on them then 2010-12. (and I think some here have upgrade to the later type)

The 2013-2014 has a 26mm FSB vs the 24mm on the 2010-2012. The 2015-2018 have a 21mm FSB. All (3) were issued with a 16mm rear bar. All Legacy chassis are the same regarding sway bar sizing.

The main difference flex/float/feel is the fact the OB is jacked up on stilts and not dampened accordingly, for some.

 

[OutbackJeff]

Question: What exactly would an owner of a 2014 OB (like me) do to fix excessive leaning through turns?
Ride stiffness and bump absorption is decent, I guess because of the 2013-2014 factory suspension update you mentioned.

 

[traildogck]

Question: What exactly would an owner of a 2014 OB (like me) do to fix excessive leaning through turns?
Ride stiffness and bump absorption is decent, I guess because of the 2013-2014 factory suspension update you mentioned.

19mm or 20mm sway bar upgrade for the rear.

RSB Bushings

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173069079300?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173069079300?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649


FSB Bushings

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173090464541?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173070784954?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

or a combination of ...

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...6-subaru-specialty-products-tdck-cke-ssp.html

tdck won't "steer" you wrong. Get it ... steer?