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2010 Outback 2.5i 184k
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

My 2010 outback is at 182k miles and I'm taking it to the dealer to replace the valve cover gaskets and sparkplugs on Monday. At 180,000 miles I had a 2 thousand dollar service done where the dealer replaced my timing belt, serp belt, coolant flush, serviced front and rear differentials, brake flush, power steering flush, replaced crossover pipe o rings, oil change, and maybe a couple of other things I can't remember right now.

However, I have noticed a few other problems that I want them to look at. The first problem is that when I shift into drive or reverse and immediately release the break pedal the car shakes for a couple of seconds. I'm not sure if the transmission fluid has ever had a drain and fill, just inspections. I have heard and seen different opinions on cvt drain and fills. Some say to do it, but others say if it was never done before 60k miles then don't do it because of metal particles that might be inside. So what should I do?

The next problem I'm having is that when the outside temp is above 40f I can hear a whistle when accelerating. It's like a high pitched whistle, and seems like it might be coming from underneath the car. It immediately goes away when I let off the gas to coast. I can hear it at lower rpms, but at higher rpms the whistle isn't loud enough to hear. This has been going on for about a year now, and I haven't noticed a difference in drivability aside from the first problem I listed.

Also, I know its normal to hear a "click" from the gear shifter when the car is on and I'm in park and press the break to shift, but I have been hearing it while driving and breaking at lower speeds.

These are all things I think I should bring up to the dealer, but don't know what to expect. Any thoughts/ideas and or experiences with these problems?

Thanks SubaruOutback.org!
 

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2013 3.6R limited. 2006 Wrx Limited
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Does the whistle stay pretty consistent in terms of note and pitch but stop when you stop?
 

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2010 Outback 2.5i 184k
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Discussion Starter #3
Does the whistle stay pretty consistent in terms of note and pitch but stop when you stop?
Yeah it has a consistent sound no matter the speed, but it stops when I release the gas pedal. I only hear it when accelerating, as soon as I coast the whistle stops. So if I'm breaking or just slowing down it goes away.
 

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2014 Subaru Outback 2.5 Premium
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I want to say the whistle could be a wheel bearing or the brake wear indicator. The brakes are usually more of a squeal then whistle sound. At 180 I wouldn't do much to that trans I think you got to just ride it out at this point since its been a life without servicing. The shaking could be a bad torque convertor or a sign of it wearing out. These are my best guess for common issues and none of them of too bad for the miles you have on it.
 

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2010 Outback 2.5i 184k
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Discussion Starter #5
I want to say the whistle could be a wheel bearing or the brake wear indicator. The brakes are usually more of a squeal then whistle sound. At 180 I wouldn't do much to that trans I think you got to just ride it out at this point since its been a life without servicing. The shaking could be a bad torque convertor or a sign of it wearing out. These are my best guess for common issues and none of them of too bad for the miles you have on it.
So you think even replacing the torque converter isn't necessary at this point?
 

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To be on the safe side and have a reliable vehicle, yes replace it. If your willing to chance it and you stay very local and a breakdown wont hurt you too bad then you can probably keep going on it and it may last another 20 or 30k miles or unfortunately it may go out in 2 weeks.
 

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2010 Outback 2.5i 184k
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Discussion Starter #7
To be on the safe side and have a reliable vehicle, yes replace it. If your willing to chance it and you stay very local and a breakdown wont hurt you too bad then you can probably keep going on it and it may last another 20 or 30k miles or unfortunately it may go out in 2 weeks.
I'm seeing differing opinions on doing drain and fills vs flushes on high milage transmissions. Any experience with this?
 

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So you think even replacing the torque converter isn't necessary at this point?
I recently had my torque converter replaced on my 2011 Outback (just over 100k mile). Symptoms were shuddering at low speeds when coming to a stop and stalling out intermittently. At your high mileage I wouldn't bother with a transmission fluid flush. It's very possible your torque converter is faulty. Have you had a Subaru mechanic test drive it yet? This is a known issue for these model years and an experienced Subaru mechanic will be familiar with the symptoms.

Once my dealer confirmed it was the torque converter, they drained the fluid to check for metal flakes. Luckily, there were none because otherwise then you need an entire new CVT.
 

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2010 Outback 2.5i 184k
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Discussion Starter #9
After going to the dealer yesterday to have my valve cover gaskets, tube seals, and spark plugs replaced, I also had them check out the shudder. The Subaru tech recommended doing a drain and fill around 200k miles. I know he test drove the car because I also had them check out a whistle sound. He didn’t think it was of too much concern. He did a great job on the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs though, which was nice. I don’t know if he was a master tech or not but I’m pretty sure he was on a higher level than the techs that just do oil changes. If that makes any difference.

How much did the torque converter replacement cost?
 

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After going to the dealer yesterday to have my valve cover gaskets, tube seals, and spark plugs replaced, I also had them check out the shudder. The Subaru tech recommended doing a drain and fill around 200k miles. I know he test drove the car because I also had them check out a whistle sound. He didn’t think it was of too much concern. He did a great job on the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs though, which was nice. I don’t know if he was a master tech or not but I’m pretty sure he was on a higher level than the techs that just do oil changes. If that makes any difference.

How much did the torque converter replacement cost?
Torque converter was around $2k+ all-in, parts/labor/taxes. I was warned if metal flakes appeared in the fluid the cost to replace entire CVT would be in the $8k - $9k range.
 
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