Subaru Outback Forums banner
  • Our 4th of July contest is live! Enter HERE for your chance to win a $400 Walmart gift card.
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Outback of the Month Challenge!

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 premium 6pd with 170k miles and am looking to replace all four shocks. My plan is to check out KYB but have a few questions:

1) Any advice on where to purchase? Rockwell/Amazon?
2) Does anyone recommend anything other than KYB? I heard someone say that the OEM 2012 (I think) would fit and are better than the 2010's???
3) How do I know if I need mounts? Was thinking I should just replace them.
4) The springs look fine, as in no visible damage or sagging. Even the paint looks good. Anyone think I should replace them?
5) Has anyone performed this swap? I haven't really gotten under there to inspect yet, but suspect I can rip them out with basic skill and tools, bring to shop to have springs swapped, and re-install. Of course probably need a breaker bar and torque wrenches. Anything in particular that should give me caution?
6) Any other suspension related issues I should look out for? I'm pretty sure at least one strut is pretty week at the least. To be frank, it drives like a big solid axle truck. The suspension gets very unsettled over bumps, especially around curves or other highway/speed compression situations.

Thanks for any and all advice.
 

·
Premium Member
(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
Joined
·
18,329 Posts
KYB front for my 06 WRX were $66 from Amazon.

my mounts were replaced due to one being cracked around about 40% of its circumference, they both had dry/crunchy bearings so I put in Group-N mounts. Car has only 70K miles or so.

95% odds your springs are fine.

I like your plan at #5 ,swap bumpstop over and re-use boots if not split/compromised, be sure to scratch/scribe a line on your camber adjust bolts at 12 O'clock . don't over-torque the 3 little mount nuts at the top.

inspect rear bushing on lower control arm and sway bar endlinks and mounts, inner tierods.... well, inspect everything.
 

·
Registered
2016 Outback Slate Gray 3.6R Limited w/ Eyesight
Joined
·
50 Posts
I dont know if you did this, but you could upgrade the rear sway bar (and probably the end links too at this point). I did it for mine when i got it used at 35k and I noticed a big difference with it getting unsettled over bumps. Certainly felt a lot more planted. I think the sway bar I upgraded to was the 19mm.
 

·
Registered
OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
Joined
·
12,385 Posts
If you're not realistically going to own it another 100,000 miles I'd be inclined to skip the mounts and springs, or only replace them with compelling reason/inspection.

If you're in this for the long haul - then they're looking like a better idea to replace sight-unseen.

Mounts - I've never actually replaced a top mount, ignoring rusty ones that just crumbled to bits or aftermarket junk. But I've got multiple vehicles and if I find I needed mounts it would be no big deal to let it sit in my garage until I ordered them. My 280k are all original. But it can be a good idea to just replace them and be done, because if you get it apart and find you need one you're stuck with needing one, reassembling, getting the part, and redoing the whole operation.

Another option is to have them on hand but buy them from somewhere that will accept returns. If they're cracked or fronts are lumpy/have play you can replace them as needed.

Springs aren't typically replaced. If sagging or performance issues or you just feel better getting them done - replace.
 

·
Registered
2011 Outback Premium 6spd
Joined
·
29 Posts
I did mine last weekend. I ordered from Autoanything.com because they were having a 20% off sale.

I did end up replacing the mounts front and rear because fronts had really crunchy bearings and the rears had a lot of movement (I could compress them and move by hand).

I also did the LCA bushings in the front. As they were cracked pretty badly. I used some polyurethane bushings and those were a huge pain. Never again. I'll have the dealership do that in the future.

Make sure you've got a good set of allen keys. I'm not sure if there's a special tool to tighten the top of the strut and nut but if there is I'd find that. I used vice grips and a socket with a hex down the center.

Coil springs are designed to have an infinite fatigue life with the stock stroke on the shocks. You should never have to replace springs. Although I wish I would've tried some springs from a 2014 or King heavier spring rate springs.

Struts were pretty straightforward.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for everyones advice! Still haven't done it but will be ordering the KYB's soon... maybe tomorrow. Have brakes to do this weekend.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top