I need to ideally flush and fill my transmission fluid, at the very least do a d&f 2 times..where can I find solid, tried and tested instructions? I’ve found some videos online but the instructions vary and I don’t want to pick the wrong one.
going to a mechanic is not an option rn and I can’t drive my car until this fluid is changed. Please help
btw, my car is at 162k. The symptoms I started getting; car would die right away, repeatedly when I start it until I give it a little gas, shifting is not as responsive it feels sluggish and slow, dies when I turn corners (happened twice), RPM’s seem higher and I checked the fluid and it is gross brown and smells kinda burned (smell could be in my head because I’m already convinced that I need to change the fluid to fix my car, truthfully I never smelled the fluid before but I’ve smelled other tranny fluids)
Seagrass is very experienced and I'm not, but if the engine is dying before you put the car in gear, and if it's dying when you turn, it doesn't sound directly transmission related.
At your mileage though, changing the fluid isn't a bad idea. Use Subaru ATF-HP or Idemitsu ATF-HP that's formulated specifically for Subaru transmissions - the 2011 Forester isn't supposed to have a CVT, or does it??
To clarify, yes you should change the CVT fluid BUT the symptoms you are describing (I may have not interpreted your post correctly) suggest the engine is stalling/turning off.
Automatic and CVT transmissions do not cause engines to stall. A faulty torque converter can do this and if this is the cause you will need to install a new or repaired torque converter.
I suspect you may have something wrong with your engine which is causing the stalling.
As SilverOnyx has mentioned I am also not sure you have a CVT, is it possible you have a 4EAT (4 speed auto) or 5EAT (5 speed auto)? These transmissions have a transmission dipstick at the rear of the engine on the drivers side to check the transmission oil level (Subaru CVT transmissions do not have a dipstick)
To clarify, yes you should change the CVT fluid BUT the symptoms you are describing (I may have not interpreted your post correctly) suggest the engine is stalling/turning off.
Automatic and CVT transmissions do not cause engines to stall. A faulty torque converter can do this and if this is the cause you will need to install a new or repaired torque converter.
I suspect you may have something wrong with your engine which is causing the stalling.
As SilverOnyx has mentioned I am also not sure you have a CVT, is it possible you have a 4EAT (4 speed auto) or 5EAT (5 speed auto)? These transmissions have a transmission dipstick at the rear of the engine on the drivers side to check the transmission oil level (Subaru CVT transmissions do not have a dipstick)
Seagrass
My owner manual says to use CVTF for my trans, it’s an auto with sport mode. Also, I watched a few videos and they drained from the tranny from bottom and filled it through the dipstick tube.
I recently did a transmission drain and fill on my Son in Laws Impreza with a 4EAT transmission.
I simply removed the transmission drain plug and drained out the fluid (about 4 quarts) changed the spin on filter and then refilled the transmission to the correct level. After a short drive I repeated the drain and fill to remove more of the old fluid and increase the percentage of new fluid in the transmission. Total fluid used was less than 8 Quarts.
Thank you! It doesn’t sound much harder than an oil change. The fill hole is the same as the tube the dipstick sits in, right?! And do you have any more info about the filter? Is it just something autozone would have?
Yes you fill via the dipstick hole. You can purchase a transmission funnel (long and skinny) which makes the refilling very easy.
I am in Australia and we have a good supply of quality non-OEM parts. I picked up a non-OEM filter for just over $20 (Subaru in Australia wants over $60 for OEM). Forum members from the US typically advise to use an OEM filter.
Yes you fill via the dipstick hole. You can purchase a transmission funnel (long and skinny) which makes the refilling very easy.
I am in Australia and we have a good supply of quality non-OEM parts. I picked up a non-OEM filter for just over $20 (Subaru in Australia wants over $60 for OEM). Forum members from the US typically advise to use an OEM filter.
Seagrass
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Thanks again..you’ve been very helpful! I’ve got Idemitsu on the way, this should be a piece of cake..what could possibly go wrong?! Lol
I drained my transmission fluid and refilled it twice. It runs waaaayy better! I may drain and fill a few more times but the difference is night and day! The fluid that came out was disgusting, dark brown and smelled terrible. Draining and filling was extremely easy too, I only wish Ihad done it sooner. Thanks everyone for the advice!
Hi, thanks for reporting back, so the symptoms disappear? I have an OBK ,CVT with 163k and at colder temp RPM drop below 500 when press the break pedal.
Fluid change on a 4EAT works out at around 10% of the old oil in there after 3 drain and fills... (My rough workings out) 4th change is t worth it.. if it was that cruddy to start with, do another 3 drops and fills in 1000 miles.. gives the fresh oil time to clean stuff up and dissolve any gunk.. deffo would change the filter at that point.
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