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Discussion Starter #1
I was told by the dealer my rear driver side wheel bearings are bad. I don't doubt it, as i thought the car just had a lot of tire noise in the rear all of a sudden, but a bearing makes more sense.

If there a how to on how to swap these? Is there a preferred one to buy? i was looking at this one

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1572290&cc=1446527&jsn=383&jsn=383

only $84, so i was going to swap both rears.

Any special tools i will need?
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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I was told by the dealer my rear driver side wheel bearings are bad. I don't doubt it, as i thought the car just had a lot of tire noise in the rear all of a sudden, but a bearing makes more sense.

If there a how to on how to swap these? Is there a preferred one to buy? i was looking at this one

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1572290&cc=1446527&jsn=383&jsn=383

only $84, so i was going to swap both rears.

Any special tools i will need?
Timkin is a good brand.

The hub can be removed (2) ways. A slide hammer with a hub attachment, you can rent at a parts store. OR, the attachment bolts for the hub can be "driven" or "drifted" out from the back side. More often than not, the second method is what gets used more. I have had hubs separate with a slide hammer and I end up beating it out from the backside anyway.
 

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You DO NOT have to remove the hub separately. 4 14mm bolts on the back (after removing brakes and axle nut). Sometimes they do rust in place so I would recommend anti seize when putting back together. I would use an air hammer to get it to spin and break free once all bolts are out. Once it breaks free from the spindle it comes out pretty easy.

They stopped using 2 piece bearings around 04 or 05 depending on model. Outback was 05 with the newer 1 piece bearing assemblies.
Timkin is a good brand.

The hub can be removed (2) ways. A slide hammer with a hub attachment, you can rent at a parts store. OR, the attachment bolts for the hub can be "driven" or "drifted" out from the back side. More often than not, the second method is what gets used more. I have had hubs separate with a slide hammer and I end up beating it out from the backside anyway.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,120 Posts
You DO NOT have to remove the hub separately. 4 14mm bolts on the back (after removing brakes and axle nut). Sometimes they do rust in place so I would recommend anti seize when putting back together. I would use an air hammer to get it to spin and break free once all bolts are out. Once it breaks free from the spindle it comes out pretty easy.

They stopped using 2 piece bearings around 04 or 05 depending on model. Outback was 05 with the newer 1 piece bearing assemblies.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Huh?

I didn't say they were. I was talking about the hub units the whole time. And if a hub bearing is really bad, the hub comes apart (separates) and the back 1/2 of the hub unit remains stuck in the knuckle
 

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Huh?

I didn't say they were. I was talking about the hub units the whole time. And if a hub bearing is really bad, the hub comes apart (separates) and the back 1/2 of the hub unit remains stuck in the knuckle
Gotcha. The way I read it made it seem like you were talking about the older 2 piece ones. That's my bad.

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Either Timken, SKF or Moog is a good replacment. Though I had a Timken fail after 40K. The job is a good DYI job, but be prepared for a lot of frustration getting the hub off unless you live in the SouthWest. I almost gave up the first time I changed a hub. The Pine Hollow youtube video is good. He uses a slide hammer. If the hub separates and the other half is left in the knuckle, having a set of longer fasteners helps to install the slide hammer on the part in the knuckle. I ordered these from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/#91180a731/=1dd9k4e


An air hammer also works. Hammer between hub and backing plate.

The four bolts holding the hub are shown as one use replacement items in the FSM. Order them from your dealer or online. If the backing plate is marginal replace it also.
 

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Either Timken, SKF or Moog is a good replacment. Though I had a Timken fail after 40K. The job is a good DYI job, but be prepared for a lot of frustration getting the hub off unless you live in the SouthWest. I almost gave up the first time I changed a hub. The Pine Hollow youtube video is good. He uses a slide hammer. If the hub separates and the other half is left in the knuckle, having a set of longer fasteners helps to install the slide hammer on the part in the knuckle. I ordered these from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/#91180a731/=1dd9k4e

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIuPDQgJsf4

An air hammer also works. Hammer between hub and backing plate.

The four bolts holding the hub are shown as one use replacement items in the FSM. Order them from your dealer or online. If the backing plate is marginal replace it also.
I've never replaced the bolts unless really rusted. But I guess not a bad idea.

Also I use the punch on the threaded part of the hub. I messed up a backing plate trying to go in between. I use the punch on the threaded part since it's getting replaced anyway. Hit it there until it starts to spin. Usually comes out easy after that.

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow, After watching that video, I am glad to live in oklahoma where we don't get much rust. Out outback lives in a garage most the time and i have had no issues with anything on it being seized. The worst i deal with is dried mud as we live on a dirt road, but the power washer fixes that
 

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Timkin is a good brand.

OR, the attachment bolts for the hub can be "driven" or "drifted" out from the back side. More often than not, the second method is what gets used more. y.

when you say drifted out, do you mean back out the the four hub bolts but leave some of the thread in the hub and hammer the bolt heads to removed the hub?
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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when you say drifted out, do you mean back out the the four hub bolts but leave some of the thread in the hub and hammer the bolt heads to removed the hub?
Yes, a "drift" is usually a brass rod, or soft steel. The "drift" is softer than the bolts so it doesn't hurt them when you pound on it. It's really just a big punch.
 

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Yes, a "drift" is usually a brass rod, or soft steel. The "drift" is softer than the bolts so it doesn't hurt them when you pound on it. It's really just a big punch.
got it. I use brass drifts to hammer bearing races from mower deck spindles.

I wish the hubs came with threaded holes like brake drums to run bolts down to help remove
 
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