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2012 2.5i valve body replacement issues

21K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  Jbrussee 
#1 ·
Hi all, thanks for reading this post.

I was on a road trip and had a hard shift, then codes p0700 and P2764 came up. I did research and found it was pretty unanimously the valve body. I ordered a brand new factory Subaru replacement part from their website, and installed it today. Everything went great, I cleaned it all very well and made sure the electrical connector was clean and dry before plugging it back in. Filled it up with fluid until it started to drip, ran it for a minute and put more fluid it until it started to drip again.

I started the car, and put it in reverse. The engine changes rpm, but it doesn’t go into reverse. I tried drive as well, and it won’t actually shift. It’s like the connector isn’t plugged it..

My best guess is that the Subaru select monitor needs to “relearn” the at system. Any other thoughts? Current plan is to tow it to the dealership and have them try relearning it
 
#2 ·
I just did the Control Valve Body this summer on my '11 2.5 Legacy 160k ; same codes as yours. When I filled it back up, it took 10 quarts of the Subaru CVT Fluid (a normal drain/fill usually takes only 5-6 qts, but dropping the Valve Body releases more fluid). Did you use the Subaru CVT Fluid? How much did it take? Did you replace the strainer while you were in there? I did NOT do a "Re-Learn" and all worked well for me. What I DID do was shift slowly from P-R-N-D and then back from D-N-R-P multiple times, like 10 times at least (and then did same over the next couple days). The tranny seemed to "re-learn" just fine. I suppose in the dealership setting, they don't have time to do this process, so they use the Subaru SSM (?) to re-learn the computer. Was your Valve Body about $800 like mine? Their is a good youtube video on same, that I used as a guideline when I did mine. Don't have the link, but if you search "Lineartronic CVT" there you will find it. Keep us posted please :) Chris
 
#3 ·
So I had purchased 8 quarts to be safe, and used all of it. I brought it to Subaru today and the mechanic said he felt it was fluid. They never checked the car out, but I explained everything. I brought it home and was able to fit another quart, then I just turned it on and cycled through each gear 10 times. Tried to add more fluid after giving it 30 minutes to cool a bit, and it was still full. Right now, it’ll shift into drive and neutral. Still treats reverse as drive
 
#7 ·
Hi, yes I’ve checked the fluid level at the correct temp and it is full. I have purchased another vehicle, which is allowing me to let this one sit and it drive it in this condition.

The only thing I’m unsure about is that when I opened the package for the new valve body, a metal bracket was loose in there as if it came off the valve body. I couldn’t find it on the old one, so I just set it aside. Any ideas? Attached pic.
 
#9 ·
I started the car, and put it in reverse. The engine changes rpm, but it doesn’t go into reverse. I tried drive as well, and it won’t actually shift.
reverse is acting like being stuck in 1st gear.
when I opened the package for the new valve body, a metal bracket was loose in there as if it came off the valve body.
No experience here with the CVT, but having looked at some of the CVT valve body replacement videos, and Subaru Technician Reference Booklets, but I'm wondering if the manual valve is properly engaged with the shift lever.

The manual valve delivers hydraulic pressure to the forward
clutch in a forward gear range and the reverse clutch in reverse gear.
If the manual valve is in the forward position, and isn't moving to the "reverse" position when the cabin gear select lever is moved to R, the transmission will effectively remain, hydraulic circuit-wise, in a forward gear mode, which is what is reported.

Not sure about that bracket, but I wonder if it might be a retainer to keep the manual valve shaft from moving out of the valve body during handling. (The FSM makes a point of securing the valve when removing the valve body.)

Granted, this might be way off base, but it came to mind and I thought it might be relevant.
 

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#10 ·
No experience here with the CVT, but having looked at some of the CVT valve body replacement videos, and Subaru Technician Reference Booklets, but I'm wondering if the manual valve is properly engaged with the shift lever.



If the manual valve is in the forward position, and isn't moving to the "reverse" position when the cabin gear select lever is moved to R, the transmission will effectively remain, hydraulic circuit-wise, in a forward gear mode, which is what is reported.

Not sure about that bracket, but I wonder if it might be a retainer to keep the manual valve shaft from moving out of the valve body during handling. (The FSM makes a point of securing the valve when removing the valve body.)

Granted, this might be way off base, but it came to mind and I thought it might be relevant.
You could be right, I’m really not sure. I re-examined the new and old valve bodies after disassembling it today, and saw no place for the bracket. I reinstalled the old valve body in the same way as I put the new one in, so we’ll see if I have reverse in my old valve body. It worked fine before this, so if it doesn’t then I’m missing a step.

Thanks for the reply and research!
 
#13 ·
Those pictures just clarified what’s wrong. Since the manual shaft just fell out when I originally took the valve body out, I never knew it was supposed to be on that lever. Plain, you’ve helped me tremendously. I really appreciate your attention to detail and posting those photos! I’ll be disassembling the valve body and draining fluid for the third time today after work... ?
 
#15 ·
So to clarfiy, just like PlainOM speculated, that clip is JUST FOR SHIPPING. As you saw, that "Manual Shaft" will literally fall out of the Valve Body housing "hole" that it is designed to slide in/out of (I'm sure you noticed the new VB was packaged in lubrication). Like was said, make sure you connect that Manual shaft, oriented correctly (I believe cut-out DOWN, will only let you do it one way) to the proper attachment point on the underbelly of the CVT. If you're in a rust-belt State like I am (Ohio), and you're not in a rush, go ahead and just order some new CVT pan bolts also if you haven't already. I hope this is helpful.
 
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