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2016 3.6R Limited
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348 Posts
Updated in post #2 with some pictures of the low beams done!
Unfortunately, I think I'll have to pull part of the bumper tomorrow. The part where the bumper meets the fender right at the headlight line sticks out just a couple mm farther than the fender. I'm pretty OCD so now that I've noticed it, it's all I see.
Anyone else had issue getting the bumper flush with the fender right next to the headlight?
I posted a thread about this a month or two ago. when you put the headlight housings back in, you actually want to pull them towards the front of the car instead of pushing back. that little bit of play in the housing is enough to mess with the tabs on the bumper. if the required amount of clearance is there everything should snap together flush.
 

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2007 Chrysler 300C built 5.7
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396 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I posted a thread about this a month or two ago. when you put the headlight housings back in, you actually want to pull them towards the front of the car instead of pushing back. that little bit of play in the housing is enough to mess with the tabs on the bumper. if the required amount of clearance is there everything should snap together flush.
Really? Will that require pulling the bumper off completely or can I just loosen the top bolt and take out the couple of clips? I'll also check your thread.
 

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2016 3.6R Limited
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348 Posts
Really? Will that require pulling the bumper off completely or can I just loosen the top bolt and take out the couple of clips? I'll also check your thread.
Entire bumper (10-15 minutes tops) needs to be removed. I loosened all of the bolts attaching the headlight housing (the black plastic frame) from the car frame. Pulled it towards the front and then tightened everything back up. I have photos in the other thread.
 

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2013 OB 2.5 LTD with Nav & Sunroof Pkg's
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79 Posts
Looks awesome. Nice job. I prefer the Hoen yellow bulbs for fogs and plan to do that shortly.
 

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2007 Chrysler 300C built 5.7
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396 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Entire bumper (10-15 minutes tops) needs to be removed. I loosened all of the bolts attaching the headlight housing (the black plastic frame) from the car frame. Pulled it towards the front and then tightened everything back up. I have photos in the other thread.
Well I'll tackle that later, glad you were able to drop in and give me the tip.
Do you pull the headlight and the black frame when the bolts are loosened? Or just one or the other?

Looks awesome. Nice job. I prefer the Hoen yellow bulbs for fogs and plan to do that shortly.
I was going to get yellow HIDs, but got cold feet during the ordering process and just got everything matching. Can't go wrong either way.

Update: LEDs arrived today. Will update post #3 late tonight
 

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2007 Chrysler 300C built 5.7
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396 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Final update made to post 3 displaying interior/exterior LEDs

That pretty much concludes my thread. I'll take special requests if they're asked and answer any questions I can, but this project has been a resounding success!
I'm glad it's done. Jake is probably sick of seeing my car in his driveway as well.
 

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2013 Outback 2.5Ltd w/EyeSight
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241 Posts
Can you possibly edit the first post to add in all the part names, numbers etc..

Like which LED's. That would make the thread even more comprehensive for someone who happens upon it.
 

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2007 Chrysler 300C built 5.7
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396 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I can work that out, yes.
I added it to post 3 since it makes more sense to lump it in with the LED post.
 

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2013 Subaru Outback limited 3.6R
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108 Posts
Diggin the LED option for the DRL! Hope you update for any overheating (hopefully not melting) issues you maybe have in the housing- especially if you're doing a lot of daytime driving. Did you use the 194's for the parking lights as well Latigo? I'll be ordering some LEDs before the week is over.
 

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2007 Chrysler 300C built 5.7
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396 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
I'm not worried about overheating. As far as I can tell, the HIDs run substantially cooler than the halogens, particularly in the fogs. Ditto for the LEDs obviously.
I just did LEDs where you see em in pictures. I didn't bother with any of the amber lights. Just the running lights that come on with the low beams, license plate lights, and various interior LEDs. I posted my order invoice in #3.
 

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2016 3.6R Limited
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348 Posts
Well I'll tackle that later, glad you were able to drop in and give me the tip.
Do you pull the headlight and the black frame when the bolts are loosened? Or just one or the other?

Update: LEDs arrived today. Will update post #3 late tonight
The black frame. However, the headlight moves with it as well so whatever?
 

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2013 2.5i Limited
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22 Posts
Really nice write up!

Can you show how the High Power LED Rectangle PCB Lamp w/ Wedge Base fit in the housing? It is the light in the cargo area, right?
 

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2007 Chrysler 300C built 5.7
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396 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
The black frame. However, the headlight moves with it as well so whatever?
Got it. Thanks!

Really nice write up!

Can you show how the High Power LED Rectangle PCB Lamp w/ Wedge Base fit in the housing? It is the light in the cargo area, right?
I kind of just stuffed it up there. It rests up against the lens haha. If it rattled, I was going to tape it or glue it, but it hasn't made a peep so it's staying the way it is. I can get a better pic though.

looks awesome!

did you use a relayed harness for either the fogs or low beams?
No I did not. I don't want to deal with any extra wiring running around the car. Haven't had one failed ignition and it's no harder on the stock harness than any other light bulb.
 

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2016 3.6R Limited
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348 Posts
No I did not. I don't want to deal with any extra wiring running around the car. Haven't had one failed ignition and it's no harder on the stock harness than any other light bulb.
Not true. The initial current spike generated by the ballasts is harder on the stock wiring. I didn't have any issues running stock wiring for the first few months. Then a buddy told me one of my headlights was out. I thought that odd, so turned them off, and then back on. Both turned on. Failure to start was intermittent and only on one side. Eventually over the year it got worse until both lights might have issues 25% of the time. Running a dedicated harness with relay fixed all of that.

You may not have to do anything for the time being but you'll have to do it eventually.
 

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2007 Chrysler 300C built 5.7
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Discussion Starter #38
Not true. The initial current spike generated by the ballasts is harder on the stock wiring. I didn't have any issues running stock wiring for the first few months. Then a buddy told me one of my headlights was out. I thought that odd, so turned them off, and then back on. Both turned on. Failure to start was intermittent and only on one side. Eventually over the year it got worse until both lights might have issues 25% of the time. Running a dedicated harness with relay fixed all of that.

You may not have to do anything for the time being but you'll have to do it eventually.
Been running a kit in the fogs of my 300c for several years now with no relay harness and no issues. I have never monitored any voltage spike in the car's harness on startup. Current travels from the car's wires to the ballast, ballast to the ignitor, ignitor to the bulbs. The ignitor is where current spikes dramatically to ignite the bulbs. I've never seen any blowback in the stock wiring from this process.
It would have been nice if you did a DIY guide.
There's already a good DIY for this ;) I just wanted to show how a 2013 performs with its larger fogs and show on-road differences between halogen and HID as opposed to shots against a wall.
One more question..do your interior lights dim?
Yes they do.
 

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2013 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT Premium w/All-Weather Pkg/Moonroof
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38 Posts
You suck - Now I have to go buy HID Kits for my Fogs as it looks amazing!
 
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