[Efmall]

Hi, new to the forum. looking for some advice. I have a 2013 OB limited 2.5i cvt.
At 3000 miles the engine got loud at start and above 2.5 k rpm. Reported to dealer they investigated and tomorrow are scheduled to pull the engine. They did diagnostics and no codes even after torture test ride. Also no engine lights or other signs of failure. It sounds like the engine is running dry with no oil. That was confirmed to be full. Also, gas mileage went down to low 20's pg.
Ok, to me looks like a new engine. How long does that take? Is the 2013 2.5i available for transplant on such a new car?
Anything I should push for like extended warranty or even a new replacement vehicle? I don't know, that why I ask.
Never been in this situation prior.
The dealership has been excellent but, at some point is such a major failure at 3k miles bigger than the dealership? I would hope corporate would like to do an autopsy and rule out a major recall.
Looking forward to some educated direction with similar experiences and outcomes.
Thank you

 

[rasterman]

They should be able to swap it within a day, day and a half. Dunno how fast they can get the replacement, though. That might be a trick.

I think this is the first 13 reported on this board.

Good luck!

 

[cardoc]

Just have the dealer swap for a new ride, comparable to the one you bought and let them have it for as long as they need it to find out what happened.

It can serve dual purposes. They have the car for extended period to investigate. You have a complete factory car without blemish.

I would hit them up for it.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

if the Regional SOA rep hasn't gotten involved, call corprorate.

 

[Novablue]

For sure get a loaner. It's disappointing to have engine trouble in a new car but an engine swap is very easy for the dealer to do.

If it takes more than 24 hours to get back to you contact them and say you need a loaner. If they give you any grief at all give them a chance to make it right when you call, then call SOA and bring them in on it.

This is a warranty issue so you should not have to suffer for their mistake.

 

[Efmall]

Hi, no issues with the dealer. I think as soon as they heard the engine they did give me a loaner for as long as this takes. Got the impression they new engine replacement was reality once the car was run.
My concerns are the future. Will replacing the engine jeopardize the integrity of other components of the car since factory seals, quality checks, extra bolts, proper torque values are followed etc? My experience is yes it will.
Having just made the 1st car payment I have concerns.
I did check the lemon laws and if they have it for 30 days in a year it qualifies for replacement. This is day #6 and the engine is still in the car.
I have not heard from any regional reps but, dealer indicated they have had contact with them.
Thanks

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

you might ask for a written extended warranty.

 

[Shadow 1100]

Thats 30 working days

 

[idosubaru]

Ah that stinks! Glad to hear the dealer is working with you so far and you don't have any concerns with them.

Weird, but that's what warranty is for - the outliers - warranties are not gimmicks, you don't pay for them for no reason...though I'm sorry you were the bearer of an outlier. An engine swap isn't that big of a deal and should not detract from long term ownership. Many of us do engine swaps all the time, it's not a big deal even on older vehicles done in our home shops and garages, a new car should have no problems giving you good service.

You get a new engine and for the time being you're putting miles and wear and tear on their transmission, brakes, windshield wipers, tires, differential fluids, etc.

I would want to know *exactly* what all is getting replaced and what from your old engine stays, there's quite a few ways to 'swap an engine'
1. Do they swap the short block (pistons and crankcase) - i suspect unlikely.
2. Do they swap the long block - short block with heads bolted on
3. What parts do they take from your engine and bolt to the new - timing gear, intake manifold?

I would very much want to know what the cause was, which it seems you do as well. I would press for that information, but it's going to take some work on your end probably as they have a few layers of service managers, technicians, and the guy who actually puts a wrench to your engine.

If you can get an extended warranty or added value of some kind, that's good, but technically you aren't "owed" anything I don't believe so I'd caution that mindset.

 

[Efmall]

GG, I'd just be happy getting the car back with no issues as purchased new a month ago. I'm not looking for more than I purchased but, I am owed a one month old car in near new condition. Thank goodness for warranties. I've actually been very laid back over this, as you can see in the news lately, my car issues are minor and repairable.
When I find the root cause i'll post it.
Thank You

 

[subiesailor]

100K warranty

I highly doubt they will retain anything from the first engine given mother subaru will probably want the whole package to do some checking into what the issue is and why it failed.

As for durability with a 100K warranty which subaru will give you in writing with no issues - I wouldn't worry about it. These cars are so simple compared to pretty much all the other makes they really are not that hard to assemble correctly. However odd ball mechanical failures do happen now and then which is why all cars come with a standard warranty.

I wouldn't be worried about it and Subaru is known for doing the right thing when these sort of things happen so all the more reason not to be too worried about it.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

hope it isn't a problem with the new 'porkchop' connecting rods;

 

[rasterman]

fair bet that your original engine will get fedexed straight to Ota for dissection.

(Subaru Mothership: 36°17'55.59"N 139°23'8.08"E for any mapheads)

 

[subiesailor]

fair bet that your original engine will get fedexed straight to Ota for dissection.

(Subaru Mothership: 36°17'55.59"N 139°23'8.08"E for any mapheads)

No doubt - subaru was doing that with the early CVT's that had various odd ball failures too.

Can't think of a company that shouldn't be doing that to make sure nothing is being fouled up in the assembly or parts making process that shouldn't be taking place etc.

 

[OldSVTGuy]

I do hope they will replace with a new engine. Our local post-mistress' 2.5 failed on her 2011 Forrester (I suspect the sand casting residue problem). The dealer she purchased it from rebuilt it. About 2 months later, it failed again. They were out of state and the dealer there said that something in the camshaft belt system was overtightened in the rebuilt process and broke - piston/valve crash. The second dealer installed a new engine and it has been fine since - almost 10 months now.

Good fortune to you!!

 

[Efmall]

Dealer called today

Hi, the dealer called today and reports the engine failure is due to a missing oil pick up tube. Thus,starving the engine of oil. I'm not sure if multiple pick up tubes are in an engine or not. They did state they are replacing the short block and the water pump. I did ask why not a full swap? They indicated damage was not noted in other areas.
Might be complete by end of next week at best worst case by the 9th of jan.
dealer noted this pick up tube was most likely not installed at the factory. Most likely? Could it be otherwise?
Are these tubes internal? Could it be removed without dismantling the engine?
I'll update when known.
Thanks, you've all been great helping me with the unknowns.

 

[plain OM]

FB engine . . .

There's only one engine oil pick-up tube in the oil pan. If it was missing, the engine would have starved for oil by the time it reached the factory parking lot.

The attached photos are the 2011 Forester FB engine, looking at the bottom with the pan removed. The pick-up tube has a screen filter at the top where the tube assembly is bolted to the engine.

Perhaps the tube cracked or broke away where it's attached to the mounting flance, rather than having never been installed.

Hope all works out . . .

 

[rasterman]

Wow, 3k miles without a pickup tube? I'm impressed. A lot of engines would have seized solid long before then.

The short block is where the damage would be concentrated, but I'd want a good look at the cams & cam bearings too. They can potentially suffer in a starvation case.

 

[Efmall]

I figure the engine was getting some lubrication, no indications of low pressure noted. It could have been right from the start and engine noise gradually got louder, enough to take note. I was told these engines have a unique chatter to them. Maybe the break in oil has incredible lubricating properties it took longer to occur?
I did note once while exiting the highway sharp right off ramp speed of 40 mph +\- the oil light came on for a split second. Having my left arm at 2 o'clock on the turn I just got a shimmer of red and did not register until after the fact. It never did come back on.
I did ask about the cams and they stated they would be replaced if signs indicate.
Thanks

 

[Euchre]

The cam bearings are as far away from the source of oil pressure as you can get in most engines. I wouldn't want to trust a short block only replacement.

Did you actually get to see what they found when they opened up the engine? If I were the dealership, I would've wanted to take a video of it to send to SOA, in part to prove best who caused the issue. Dealerships do fairly little to brand new cars before selling them, especially mechanically, so it would be more likely to be something the factory or owner did, so why not document it thoroughly?