Subaru Outback Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So my rear hubs need to be replaced. I have a 2013 OB Limited 2.5 and am wondering if the Electronic Parking Brake requires any special attention while replacing the hubs? Specifically, do I need to worry about performing the 'Parking Brake Removal Mode' after connecting the Subaru Select Monitor (which I obviously don't have), Parking Brake Removal Mode', operation, as mentioned in the service manual page PB-10.

Or it as easy as I think it is: remove wheel, axel nut, hub bolts from brake backing, parking brake assembly, and finally hub.

Thoughts or suggestions...?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2017 OutBack Premier, 2019 Forester Ltd, 2016 370z Rdstr
Joined
·
703 Posts
NoVASAC,

There are several YouTube videos showing how to back off the electronic Brake motor to do what you want to accomplish.

One is to use a separate 12 volt power supply to connect to the brake motor electrical connector pins. When you disconnect the motor connector, apply neg voltage to one connector and pos to the other. The motor will spin the piston in or out. Reversing the leads will spin the piston the other direction.

The other is to just remove the two allan key bolts that hold the motor to the caliper (I do it this way) and then turn the protruding Torx (?) extention on the caliper that matches with the motor, in the direction needed to move the piston into the caliper. They suggest (subaru) that the O ring be replaced in this method, but if its in good shape I reuse it but apply a good water proof grease to it to ensure no water intrusion when refitting.

Both methods suggest disconnecting the battery before doing either procedure, and when the job is completed, to apply the emergency brakes and release them a couple of times to set them up.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
Joined
·
12,847 Posts
You don't have to bother with the park brake. The shoes and backing plate will not be in the way to replace the hub assembly. Just leave the park brake OFF when you start and use wheel chicks and jack stands.

Remove the hose retainer bracket, take off the caliper and bracket from the spindle and move it over out if the way. Hang it with a cord if you like. Remove the wheel speed sensor. Loosen and remove the axle nut. Then try to push in on the axle end and see if it'll move in the hub. If not, DO NOT hammer on the axle directly. You'll mushroom the end and never get the nut on. Spray it with PB Blaster or similar while you remove the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the spindle. Then either use a puller or a large punch and hammer to knock the axle loose. If you have access to compresses air and an air hammer, even better. Once the axle is loose in the hub, pull the hub out and chunk it. You may have to use a heavy hammer to knock the bearing assembly off the spindle. Rust tends to hold it in place.

The bolts only line up one way when you go back in.

You'll have to get the caliper piston pushed in a few mm to ease reinstallation.

Use loctite on the bracket bolts. You won't need much.

After you put it all together, pump the brake pedal to set the pads in the caliper you removed before you move the car.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
Joined
·
12,847 Posts
Oh, and if the rotor is a bit hard to get off the hub, there are two ways you can get it off without damaging anything.

One is to hammer the "hat" portion of the rotor, that's the raised center where there's no pad contact, and it will pop loose. The other is to get 2 8mm screws about 1.5-2" long and thread them in to the two threaded holes of the rotor and work them in switching one to the other until the rotor comes loose from the hub.
 

·
Registered
2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i 2003 Legacy L special edition (retired to backup)
Joined
·
667 Posts
the 4th gen uses a actuator that pulls on a cable assembly to activate the parking brake

once you release it, you can back off the star adjusters if you cannot get the rotors off and then wiggle the rotor on the studs and it should come off.

put copper based anti seize on your hub careful not to get any on the studs. this will prevent your rotor from sticking to it.

when you replace your hubs and reassemble your brakes you want to put the rotor on and then adjust the star wheel until it causes the rotor not to move. then slowly back it off until the rotor moves with a very slight amount of drag.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Cardoc & YEMM...thanks for the responses. It seems it's pretty straight forward as I'd imagined. As for the 'star' adjusting, that's a flashback to my old VW Beetle days. Now to find a warm & dry place to do the work in Northern VA.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2013 & 2014 Outback
Joined
·
268 Posts
This is for newer Outbacks but there is something on reprogramming / homing the electronic parking brake. Look around pg 126

Also if you put a tube on the bleeder valve and let the fluid go into a bottle while you are pushing the piston back and rotating the piston makes it much easier
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i 2003 Legacy L special edition (retired to backup)
Joined
·
667 Posts
^ that manual is for 2015-2019 cars that use the rear caliper as the parking brake. does not apply to 2010-14 cars
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The replacement was a piece of cake. Just like any other rear brake job, except for having to beat the old hub off with a hammer. No need to do anything with the electronic parking brake

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top