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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased the car at end of November with 62000 miles from a Volvo dealership in Texas. The VIN is above the number stated (in lawsuit) as having problems with oil consumption, so I thought I was good to go. The last oil change was done at 59,700 before being sold. At 64,000 miles the low oil lamp came on. Checked oil; it was at last dot on dipstick. Got an oil change this week. Last car was a 2002 Volvo XC70 with 220,000 miles and it was burning less than a quart every 4000 miles. My question is, if there is a problem, what steps can I take of getting engine replaced, if needed, for free. I owe $8 grand on the car and paying $5 grand for a new engine isn't really something I had anticipated, nor want, nor worth it. Love the car, first time buyer.
 

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I just purchased the car at end of November with 62000 miles from a Volvo dealership in Texas. The VIN is above the number stated (in lawsuit) as having problems with oil consumption, so I thought I was good to go. The last oil change was done at 59,700 before being sold. At 64,000 miles the low oil lamp came on. Checked oil; it was at last dot on dipstick. Got an oil change this week. Last car was a 2002 Volvo XC70 with 220,000 miles and it was burning less than a quart every 4000 miles. My question is, if there is a problem, what steps can I take of getting engine replaced, if needed, for free. I owe $8 grand on the car and paying $5 grand for a new engine isn't really something I had anticipated, nor want, nor worth it. Love the car, first time buyer.
Personally, I'd start taking pictures of full dipstick after a fill, next to the odometer, and the low oil light on next to the dipstick and odometer.

Take these into the dealership (as many cycles as you'd like) and say my car is burning 3qts of oil every 5,000 miles. They should do the test on it to see if it's burning oil, and if found to be, it "should" be covered. I've never met a dealership that was ok with doing it the first time though. Some guy even had them pull the entire shortblock apart once to replace the rings manually before finally ordering him a new engine per the instructions despite him asking for the correct fix the first time.

Prepare for a fight.

I will note that when I drive mine regularly above 2700rpm on the highway (85mph) it burns oil. No idea why it doesn't below, but above, I went through just over 2.5qts in 1500 miles.
 

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'13 2.5 Premium
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The vehicles inside the VIN range were granted an extra warranty on the engine, up to 8/100. Excessive oil consumption in those cases would be covered under that warranty.

Vehicles NOT inside that VIN range were still on the 5/60 warranty.

The simple thing is to add an extra qt now and then.

Here are the years, models, and VINs:

https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/closed-settlements/332670-subaru-oil-burning-class-action-settlement/

My '13 is inside the VIN range but does not burn oil.
 

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Just add oil as needed and don't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. Sorry for late response. Been on a few tours that have kept me busier than normal during my "slow" season. I have been taking pics of dipstick and it is getting lower. Any way to read dipstick on the amount of quarts left? And the last reply is like saying if my tires keep going flat just put air in them. Eventually, if it is piston rings or something else, if I ignore the problem, something is going to go horribly wrong and I'm stuck with an even more expensive, or dangerous, scenario than getting it taken care of now. I have a few summer trips planned for this summer and would rather not be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a cracked engine, or worse, have it happen while driving. Its just a pain in my mind that this is happening. Maybe I'll just sell it. Frustrating to say the least
 

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2013 Outback Premium - 6spd manual
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Just add oil as needed and don't worry about it.
Hi, Not sure this approach will work. It didn't for me. I too was only adding oil as needed. I check weekly. Didn't track how much I was adding.

At around 62k, the check-engine light came on with a P0420 code. Turns out both my cats were fouled (I assume with oil). (I hadn't yet told the dealer about the oil-consumption issue.) Subaru replaced both cats under the emissions warranty. Shortly after, I had them do the oil-consumption test. Turns out, my low-oil light came on after only 500 miles! They had a short-block in inventory, took my car, and gave me a brand new Forrester as a loaner. 5 days later I had my car back with the new short-block. This was 20 months ago.

Now at 111k and haven't yet had to add oil in between 5k changes. The car is running great!

Good luck to you.
 

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2013 OB 2.5 Limited CVT, 2-3" ADF lift, and more
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I dealt with the oil consumption problem not long after I bought my early production year 2013, used with about 65,000 miles on it. My third Subaru, so I was no stranger to burning oil, but nothing to the extent and at such a low mileage as I was experiencing. I documented for awhile with pictures of the dipstick and odometer just to prepare for a fight. This proved to be unnecessary because in the end, the dealer I bought from was pretty good about taking care of it. They do an oil consumption test. There is plenty of info on the web about this, but the one tip I have for you is to double check the oil level on the dipstick after they do the initial oil change. Reason being, how far this goes down after 1200 miles is CRITICAL to the test. I found the first time that the oil level was over the full mark by a bit, which obviously would make a difference. I took it back in immediately and had them correct it so that the level was right at full mark. (keep in mind when checking that ideally the motor should be cool so all the oil has drained back into the pan. I did my first check the the morning after when the car had sat all night. Something to note that at the dealer, you probably will get a somewhat inaccurate reading as they will likely have driven the car from the service bay around to pick up.)

Sounds like there is a good chance you have the bug. You have plenty of mileage to go with the new warranty so don't give up on the car yet! If you do end up with this problem, you'll get a new short block at no cost to you which will freshen up the motor for a long time to come. I've gone maybe 20,000 miles since with no oil loss. Good luck!
 

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2013 Outback 2.5 w/CVT
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Brought in our 2013 Outback (39,000 miles) for routine maintenance and to finally address the EXCESSIVE oil consumption problem.
After 5 years of constantly adding oil between normal changes (almost 2 quarts needed between changes done regularly at the dealer) I finally had henough when my wife dove to So Cal and the low oil indicator light came on at 850 miles.

I had made a point to top of all the fluids and check tire pressure before she left and when she returned 4 days (and 850 miles) later the low oil light was on. I used over 3/4 of quart to bring the oil level back to the full mark on the dipstick.....Unbelievable but true!

Brought the car in to the dealer to initiate the oil consumption test two days ago and was surprised to see that it is overfilled by almost 1 quart when my wife brought the car home tonight.
WTF? was it intentional or incompetence?

It's almost an inch above the full mark. I will call the service manager tomorrow and ask why is it overfilled.
After I insist that they correct the oil level I will express my concern about driving with so much oil in motor and I am worried about possibly damaging the engine in fear of blowing seals or something similar.

I hope they do what is right.
 

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2019 Ascent Touring / 2019 Tesla M3
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So an inch above the full mark is .9QTs over filled... the crank case on a Legacy or Outback can handle that.

(Other Subarus will fail to start or stall...)

This happens because they dont let the oil drain from the engine for at least 20 minutes.

The proper way to fill our engines for the OCT is:

1) Drain the oil letting the car sit for 15-20 minutes
2) Replace the oil filter
3) Put the bolt back with a new washer
4) Fill the engine with 4.5 QTs
5) Start the engine and run it for 10-20 seconds and TURN IT OFF
6) Let the car sit for 15-30 minutes
7) Top off the oil to the full mark

Zero the B trip meter and drive the car for 1200 miles. If the dipstick is a CM or lower under the full mark, new short block.
 

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2014 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT (Alloy Wheel Package)
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I have a 2014 2.5L CVT O.B. with a manufacturer date 11/2013 (well above the May 2013 recall date).
The first 3 oil changes every 6k miles at the Subie dealer using Subaru 0-20w synthetic, my oil level before the change was at the full mark, "but" the dealer would always overfill it by half a quart, so its like a half quart consumption per 6k miles.

Then on oil changes after the first 3, I started using a 15 oz bottle of STP synthetic motor oil treatment. With the STP Synthetic treatment the dip stick before an oil change was always a half quart overfull right before the oil change. So consumption was simiar per 6k miles.

Now with a new Subie dealer that only uses Mobil 1, 0-20wt at exactly the full level after the change (and I still add a 15 oz bottle of STP synthetic treatment}, but the dip stick level before an oil change is approximately a half quart overfull.

The conclusion I have after 53 months of owning this car is:
1: either the rings have finally seated in, "or"
2: Mobil 1, 0-20wt doesn't slip past the rings as much as Subie synthetic 0-20wt does.
I am not sure which one it is, 1 & 2 above?
 

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I woukd never put STP in my oil, as there is no need for that additive package.

Mobil 1 will burn more than just about any other oil. The Subaru sythetic oil I’ve no idea about. However, you CAN put 5w30 sunthetic in the engine with no ill effects, and that will burn slightly less. We are not using 0W20, and the manual lists a few other weights that can be used in a pinch without issues. Interestingly, 0W30 is not in that list...

One important thing to note: No amount of changing oils or adding additives is going to stop a car with ring issues from burning oil.
 

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I have had no luck with actual Subie Dealers who are willing to put 5/30 wt oil in my car. They say it violates the warranty.
In the life of this car I have lived in the San Francisco Bay Area, San Diego County, and now the Washington/Idaho border area. They all said the same thing. That's why I add the STP; and in 53 years of owning cars, I have learned to not trust
independent oil changers (bad experiences).
 

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The manual indicates that 5W30 or 5W40 may be used in a pinch, and that it must meet tne API SM or SN classification.

Either to top off or to drive with if 0W20 is nkt available... we’re nkt have any issues in ours.

Also, I send the oil out during each change to look for wear issues. Absolutely nothing unusual.
 
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