Subaru Outback Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of October's Outback of the Month Challenge!
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So just at almost 120k miles, and the rear is definitely sagging, overall ride is pretty soft. New car market is bonkers so looking to put some work into the OB and keep on trucking. Just got a camping trailer as well, so looking to maybe replace OEM shocks with something maybe a little stiffer, as well as add overload springs to the rear. Any suggestions on what direction to go for gen 4? Found a very detailed gen 3 suspension thread, but not for 2013. Would an inch or two lift be a bad idea (with an inch bigger tires), just looking to get a little more height on the hitch and possibly a little more vehicle clearance.
 

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well on my way to True Line suspension shop just down the freeway. They are going to take a look at it and give me their recommendation. Will post back what they recommend.
 

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well that was a complete waste of time. They took it for a short test drive, then said that they have nothing in stock that would stiffen it, but that if I brought what I wanted put in they could do that but its up to me to do the research and find what I want. He also said he thought the rear shocks were fine, I measure just over 8.5 inches from top of rim to bottom of wheel well in front, but just under 8.25 inches in the rear. I'm sure they were the same when the car was new. Anyone have any recommendation on rear shock replacement for gen 4 to be used most likely in conjunction with overload springs (Rallitek?). I am going to call around off road specialty shops as these guys were zero help.
 

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also, I measure the clearance under the car at 7.25 inches at the rear axle, whereas factory specs are 8.7 inches, so I can only surmise that the car has sagged overall as I have the same diameter tires as the stock ones, and that the rear has sagged a quarter to half inch more than the front.
 

·
Premium Member
2020 Onyx
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
I just checked and Bilstein offers B4 and B6 shocks for your car, and I have always had excellent improvements whenever I install Bilsteins. The B4 is just a tad firmer than OE, works well with OE springs, and the B6 is noticeably firmer and would pair well with stiffer springs. I think stiffer shocks will also be able to handle a trailer better.

Both will work with Rallitek overload springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I’m curious as to replacement as well. I have a ‘12. I haven’t done any measuring to see if the car has dropped, but the ride has noticeably deteriorated and is harsher. I recall the automotive magazines used to complain about the 12’s cushy ride, which I believe Subaru stiffened up in ‘13.
 

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow what a coincidence, I was just on the KYB And Rallitek websites and saw the Bilstein B6/overload kit. What about raising the back with the 1.4" rear option, and the front 1 inch with Bilstein B6.

These for the rear


And these up front


I noticed that front spring assemblies are more expensive, is that cause of engine weight?

DAW89446 I noticed my 13 sagging after 60k miles and just really ignored it until I bought this trailer. I never drove a 2012 but the 2013 seemed squishy out of the gate.
 

·
Premium Member
2020 Onyx
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
Just realize that the more you lift the car the more you invite things like CV joint issues - I'd stick with stock height or just the minimal extra height if possible, unless you truly need the extra ground clearance. If your springs are literally sagging after all these years, the 0.4" spring might raise the rear more than you think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
DAW89446 I noticed my 13 sagging after 60k miles and just really ignored it until I bought this trailer. I never drove a 2012 but the 2013 seemed squishy out of the gate.
Yeah, car magazines are fickle. They complained of the soft ride because the car couldn’t corner like an Indy car; after Subaru stiffened the ride, then they complained about the stiff ride. My car has over 127,000 miles and it’s probably time for shocks/struts at all four corners.
 

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm likely pulling the trigger on the Bilstein/Rallitek package, so I'll follow up and post the results. only question really is do I do .4 inch lift in the back and stock front, or lift 1.4 in the back and an inch in front. SilverOnyx brings up a good point. I wouldn't think an inch would be enough to be likely to cause issues. I guess I wouldn't mind the extra clearance and I could also put bigger tires on down the road. Could see a few more mods making it a baja explorer when its done with its daily driver duties.
 

·
Registered
2018 Outback Touring 2.5
Joined
·
159 Posts
I personally wouldn't mess with the engineered suspension geometry and go with 0" up front and either 0" or .4" in the rear. Maybe the .4" rear if you're going to tow/load quite a bit.
 

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well to be honest tha' two people that recommend no lift and that would be cheaper as well. Does anyone else think pre assembled strut kits seem overpriced? I looked up the Bilstein b6 rear struts on their own are less than 100 dollars, and the overload springs are 230 for two of them but the kit is 730. If I'm having a shop do the work should I just buy the components individually or even see what prices they can get?
 

·
Premium Member
2020 Onyx
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
If you're having a shop install them anyways, then it will be trivial for them to assemble the strut. The primary benefit to pre-assembled struts is for homeowners to install it themselves without having to use a spring compressor. So if it's cheaper to buy the components, just buy the components. I doubt the shop would have a separate charge for assembling a strut. You will have to do a wheel alignment whether you get the lift springs or standard height springs in the front.
 

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The shop is being really really helpful which is a breath of fresh air, they are trying really hard to find the Bilstein struts which I guess are back ordered, and they tried calling Rallitek directly to set up an account for their shop. Quick question, I read some threads that the 19 and 20 mm Rear sway bar upgrade would if anything help towing and on highway handling with maybe a minimal reduction in off road handling. I don't do much off road travel but I do here and there. Is the 19 or 20 going to be a better fit on my 2013 if I go with Rallitek overloads in the back with Bilstein B6 struts?
 

·
Premium Member
2020 Onyx
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
If you are getting stiffening springs front and rear you can stiffen the rear sway bar, but if you're only going to stiffen the rear then stick with the stock rear sway bar.

In my opinion after you get your new shocks and springs you should drive it for a while before deciding on a new rear sway bar - the firmer springs and shocks alone will make a world of difference. My bias is towards making small changes to suspension, not large ones, and there are other sway bars besides the 19 and 20 - there's even an 18mm and my choice would to to go conservative and get the 18mm if you are going to get firmer sway bars.



If your stock sway bar is 15mm and you want a sway bar 100% stiffer (twice as stiff as stock or 200% stiffness) that would be an 18mm sway bar.

19mm is about 250%

20mm is about 300%
 

·
Registered
2013 2.5i Limited CVT
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Silver Onyx. I am getting the Rallitek .4" overload in the back and the regular Rallitek upfront but that is listed as 20% stiffer up front than OEM. I am putting the Bilstein B6 struts which are listed as stiffer than OEM as well. I'm going with them up front and in back. It seems like a lot of people are really happy with the 19mm but I can wait and see how the new shocks/struts feel. I guess I am looking for the most on highway (55 mph) stability when towing 2000 lbs.
 

·
Premium Member
2020 Onyx
Joined
·
13,421 Posts
If you're sure you want a stiffer rear sway bar I'm not trying to discourage you - just that my bias is to do things conservatively and one-at-a-time changes, but that's me not you. A sway bar change doesn't require removal of the shocks or struts so in my mind it's easy to change after the fact. But struts and springs get installed together so it doesn't make sense to install just one and then have to re-install the whole thing again but this time with a new spring.

Again this is just my thought process but if you have a car at the shop and want them to do everything at the same time, that makes sense too, but you can install sway bars yourself if you are able to do things like change tires, oil changes. It's very simple.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ausdland

·
Registered
2018 Outback Touring 2.5
Joined
·
159 Posts
The rear sway bar does help rear stability when towing, but as suggested ^ one modification at a time to feel the difference. You can install the rear sway bar in your driveway in 20 mins if you decide to try it after spring/struts.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top