Optimus, unless there is visual evidence of failure, e.g. a torn boot, the only way I know to check the carrier bearing is to actually pull the drive shaft so you can rotate it by hand, This is also a good opportunity to check the U-joints.
I don't think there is room to rotate the carrier assembly with the drive shaft installed. And at least on the older cars, you will lose transmission fluid when you remove the drive shaft, so be prepared for that. Somewhere I have a "plug" that I made from the front section of a failed drive shaft. If you have nimble fingers, you can get them swapped, and not lose much. Much 90wt, anyway, more ATF 'cause it's thinner (but easier to replace)(on pre-CVT cars). I just don't know about the watery CVT fluid. I would plan on having to top that off, or probably even better, just dump the 5qts in the pan before you start, and fill it with fresh fluid when you're done. You'll need the tools to accomplish this. Be sure to mark both ends of the drive shaft so you can recover the alignment when you re-install. I don't know how much this matters, but better safe than sorry.
Have a line on a replacement drive shaft before you start just in case you need it. And even with a good shop press, DIY on the carrier bearing and U-Joints is non-trivial, and I really can't recommend it. Don't ask me how I know this
