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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting the P1449 code for an Evap issue. My local garage did a visual check, reset the code, and it came back on the next morning. I suspect the filter is wet (drove through some relatively deep water). I talked to the the mechanic this morning: he told me to take it to the dealer because he thinks he needs to drop the axle to inspect the filter and lines, and the dealer probably has a quicker way of checking the components. This seems contrary to what I've read on here, though.

I'm deciding between trying another mechanic or make the dreaded trip to the dealer. Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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there is a drain filter above the rear axle, but I think what is normally impacted by water is the canister - which is under the drivers side rear wheel well liner. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2015-outback-evap-canister-location.354586/
there is a drain filter above the rear axle, but I think what is normally impacted by water is the canister - which is under the drivers side rear wheel well liner. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2015-outback-evap-canister-location.354586/
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Not an emissions warranty item...?
 

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Not if due to water contamination, which is an external event.
Unless the owner purposely was driving in creek beds or rivers it should be covered. We get some high standing water on the roads around here when it rains. I’ve never had past warranty issues. But local dealers may expect it here.
 

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Update: I skipped the dealer for various reasons and took it to a very competent garage. The filter was wet. They dried the filter and blew out the hoses, and we decided to see if that alone would work. It didn't: check engine light came back on after about an hour of driving (same code). On the second visit, there was more water in a hose that indicated water still in the system. Out of an abundance of caution they replaced the filter (roughly $50 part), the canister (approx. $200 part), and the pump attached to the check valve ($150 part). Labor was $300. Although I could've just tried replacing one component first and seeing if it worked, I'm not interested in multiple return trips and extra labor costs. An expensive lesson for high water driving.

FYI: filling the tank with a malfunctioning evap system takes quite a while. (See also https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/topping-off-the-fuel-tank-problems.24494/#post-234427)

Thanks for the replies.
 

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If y'all are driving through high water get the LP canister by-pass (https://lpaventure.com/collections/outback-2018/products/lp-aventure-canister-filter-bypass) or build one yourself. Brucey has some video around here where he shows that.
I think the conclusion of the video was that you could source similar parts and build one just as good yourself... but yeah, if you have issues with water getting in the wheel well enough to get sucked into the system, worth the effort
 
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