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That's good to know, there's nothing like hands-on experience. I'm a radio engineer so I tend to be more concerned with the theory side of things than the practical. I've also had issues with the orientation of my iPhone X on a dash mounted carrier, and I've seen that it needs to be pointed toward the metal-free zone to work reliably. But the Lightning connector is pretty flaky, so that may be the real issue in the effects I've seen. I like the idea of mounting the Kenwood GPS antenna inside the dash because it hides the wire. I'll see how well that works for me.
I have lots of issues with aftermarket lightning cables. It seems like the manufacturing tolerances are very poor.
 
I have lots of issues with aftermarket lightning cables. It seems like the manufacturing tolerances are very poor.
Lightning is badly designed, on one end the conductors are exposed to air and on the other the aperture is so narrow it becomes a catchment for dirt, hair, and dead skin. And they have an ID chip built-in that causes issues for all the non-Apple suppliers. I just stick to the Apple brand and bitch about the price every time I have to buy one.
 
The GPS antenna for a 2015 w/NAV (may apply to all Gen 5s) is actually mounted in the dash, just above the instrument cluster.
Aha, so the thing on the roof is the AM/FM radio antenna. Thanks, that solves one problem for me.

The other thing I'm puzzled about is how to connect the four Kenwood audio outputs to the 12 speaker HK audio system. Do you bypass the Kenwood amp and wire directly from the preamp outputs to the HK amp or what? What about the front center speaker?
 
Aha, so the thing on the roof is the AM/FM radio antenna. Thanks, that solves one problem for me.
Actually, the traces in the upper portion of the rear window make up the AM/FM antenna. Some 2015s also have a small rooftop antenna which supplies the SiriusXM signal. That became a much larger "shark fin" style housing in 2016 to accommodate both the SXM and the new telematics system antenna.

...The other thing I'm puzzled about is how to connect the four Kenwood audio outputs to the 12 speaker HK audio system. Do you bypass the Kenwood amp and wire directly from the preamp outputs to the HK amp or what? What about the front center speaker?
Yeah, that has caused some confusion in the past. Not sure if it was a 2015, but I do recall seeing a thread where someone had figured out the pinout for the HK amp, which would probably be helpful. If I can find it I'll post back.
 
Actually, the traces in the upper portion of the rear window make up the AM/FM antenna. Some 2015s also have a small rooftop antenna which supplies the SiriusXM signal. That became a much larger "shark fin" style housing in 2016 to accommodate both the SXM and the new telematics system antenna.



Yeah, that has caused some confusion in the past. Not sure if it was a 2015, but I do recall seeing a thread where someone had figured out the pinout for the HK amp, which would probably be helpful. If I can find it I'll post back.
Thanks, I've looked it up in the service manual. The HK amp has outputs for the three speakers on the dash, the four in the doors, and the sub. The inputs to the amp are pretty complicated and mysterious and the diagram is making my head hurt.
 
501558


It appears that the HK amp is more than an amp. It takes left and right channel inputs and mixes/equalizes them to the eight speakers (marketed as 12 by counting mids and highs separately.)

Control of the equalizer appears to be in the factory audio/nav HU. Thus, it all goes away with an aftermarket HU.

Inputs

(i262) No. 1 MUTE MUTE
(i262) No. 2 L– Left channel negative input
(i262) No. 3 L+ Left channel positive input
(i262) No. 4 R– Right channel negative input
(i262) No. 5 R+ Right channel positive input
(i262) No. 6 SLD Shield
(i262) No. 7 TX– Transmitter negative
(i262) No. 8 TX+ Transmitter positive
(i262) No. 9 EQ CHG Equalizer select (change)*1
(i262) No. 10 L/RHD-SEL Equalizer select (change)*2
(i262) No. 11 SPEED Vehicle speed pulse
(i262) No. 12 ACC ACC power supply
(i262) No. 13 NC Not connected
(i262) No. 14 II1– Interrupt information negative
(i262) No. 15 II1+ Interrupt information positive
(i262) No. 16 NC Not connected
(i262) No. 17 NC Not connected
(i262) No. 18 SLD2 Shield
(i262) No. 19 NC Not connected
(i262) No. 20 NC Not connected
(i262) No. 21 NMUTE Navigation mute (not used)
(i262) No. 22 NC Not connected
(i262) No. 23 NC Not connected
(i262) No. 24 TMUTE Telephone mute (not used)

Outputs

(B316) No. 1 +B Battery power supply
(B316) No. 2 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 3 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 4 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 5 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 6 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 7 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 8 WF+ Sub woofer positive
(B316) No. 9 TWR+ Instrument panel right side speaker positive
(B316) No. 10 CTR+ Instrument panel center speaker positive
(B316) No. 11 FL+ Left side front door speaker positive
(B316) No. 12 FR+ Right side front door speaker positive
(B316) No. 13 TWL+ Instrument panel left side speaker positive
(B316) No. 14 RL+ Left side rear door speaker positive
(B316) No. 15 RR+ Right side rear door speaker positive
(B316) No. 16 +B2 Battery power supply
(B316) No. 17 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 18 GND2 Ground
(B316) No. 19 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 20 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 21 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 22 NC Not connected
(B316) No. 23 WF– Sub woofer negative
(B316) No. 24 TWR– Instrument panel right side speaker negative
(B316) No. 25 CTR– Instrument panel center speaker negative
(B316) No. 26 FL– Left side front door speaker negative
(B316) No. 25 FR– Right side front door speaker negative
(B316) No. 28 TWL– Instrument panel left side speaker negative
(B316) No. 29 RL– Left side rear door speaker negative
(B316) No. 30 RR– Right side rear door speaker negative
 
The other thing I'm puzzled about is how to connect the four Kenwood audio outputs to the 12 speaker HK audio system. Do you bypass the Kenwood amp and wire directly from the preamp outputs to the HK amp or what? What about the front center speaker?
Simple. You use an interface module. Like this: iDatalink Maestro

If you want individual control over each channel, you'll have run an aftermarket DSP, additional amplifiers, likely new speakers as well. It depends how far down the rabbit hole you'd like to go.
 
Simple. You use an interface module. Like this: iDatalink Maestro

If you want individual control over each channel, you'll have run an aftermarket DSP, additional amplifiers, likely new speakers as well. It depends how far down the rabbit hole you'd like to go.
Super cool, looks like a piece of cake. Does the Maestro enable the HK's equalizer?
 
Super cool, looks like a piece of cake. Does the Maestro enable the HK's equalizer?
I'm not sure if it does, but I've read several posts with people praising the sound quality improvement after replacing the head unit while using the Maestro adapter. The aftermarket head unit should have enough equalization to tweak the sound to the liking of most listeners.
 
I'm not sure if it does, but I've read several posts with people praising the sound quality improvement after replacing the head unit while using the Maestro adapter. The aftermarket head unit should have enough equalization to tweak the sound to the liking of most listeners.
It looks like you can do some amazing things with the Maestro devices, such as turning on a side camera when you flip on a turn signal. That may require the RR2.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Curious why people would want to do their own install. Subaru owners are usually of higher intelligence for the most part but pulling this correctly, I would guess around 20%. Every bad story you read on something not working correctly is usually install error or not ordering the correct parts. I've done plenty of past installs when stereo's and amp's (without steering wheel controls) were much less complicated but today's stereo you have to have all the correct parts and understanding for everything to work as it did before. For $175.00 installation, It wasn't worth the chance for me...
 
Curious why people would want to do their own install. Subaru owners are usually of higher intelligence for the most part but pulling this correctly, I would guess around 20%. Every bad story you read on something not working correctly is usually install error or not ordering the correct parts. I've done plenty of past installs when stereo's and amp's (without steering wheel controls) were much less complicated but today's stereo you have to have all the correct parts and understanding for everything to work as it did before. For $175.00 installation, It wasn't worth the chance for me...
I'm not inclined to do my own install because, for starters, I don't even know how to remove the air vents and the stock HU without damaging the appearance of the dash. But I live in Colorado, a place where service industries are often less than competent, so I find it worthwhile to acquire detailed knowledge of the procedures and options for HU upgrade before chasing down an installer. As I understand it, many people buy their gear directly and then have the installer install it, as opposed to purchasing from the installer's stock. I also want a fairly non-standard setup, with side cameras in addition to front and rear ones.

In any event, knowledge is generally a good thing to have, whatever you decide to do with it.
 
Curious why people would want to do their own install. Subaru owners are usually of higher intelligence for the most part but pulling this correctly, I would guess around 20%. Every bad story you read on something not working correctly is usually install error or not ordering the correct parts. I've done plenty of past installs when stereo's and amp's (without steering wheel controls) were much less complicated but today's stereo you have to have all the correct parts and understanding for everything to work as it did before. For $175.00 installation, It wasn't worth the chance for me...
As an ex-installer, replacing the radio in newer cars is actually easier than they used to be. Steering wheel controls, factory amps, even Starlink and eyesight...interface modules have made this all a breeze. That is, if you can read and follow directions. In this era of youtube videos and online car forums, help is only a few keystrokes away. It’s not like you’re rewiring the electrical system in a hand-built 80s British car. Subarus, like any other newer mass-produced vehicle are essentially legos.
 
Last week I installed the Kenwood DMX 957XR in my 2016 Outback (with HK and Nav). I did this because, as an iPhone user, I loath the factory set-up and it's ham fisted interface. I purchased from Crutchfield along with the Maestro RR Interface Module and the appropriate interface harness.

I performed the installation myself and it was a very simple process. I paid Crutchfield $25 for their ReadyHarness Service, which involves them splicing together the wiring harnesses from the new HU and the Maestro using a splicing machine. I could have done this myself but it would have been time consuming and would not have looked anywhere near as good. It essentially turned this project into a plug & play operation. I did reviewed the Maestro wiring diagram to ensure all the connections were made correctly (they were). To get to the radio you pry off 2 trim pieces and remove 6 screws and the old unit is out. It's astonishing how many connecters are plugged into the back of that thing. I purchased plastic trim panel tools and did not leave a single scuff mark on the dash.

I bought the Metra AX-SUBUSB2 USB Adapter in the hopes that I would be able to retain the factory USB ports but it didn't work, the radio doesn't recognize them. I either have to run the loose cable ends out from under the dash the way R-Dub did, or buy an aftermarket USB outlet.

A GPS antenna is required for wireless CarPlay navigation. If you will be content with Wired only I guess you can skip it, but you may get annoying warnings from the HU about it. I had read online somewhere that this iDatalink ACC-SAT-TO2 GPS antenna adapter would allow me to retain use of the factory GPS antenna but it did not. The connecters all seemed to line up the new HU couldn't connect to it for some reason. I considered dismantling the instrument cluster part of the dash to install the new GPS antenna in the same spot as the factory one, but that is too difficult. The antenna provided with the new HU is pretty small and the exact same color as the black dash, so I ran the cable behind the dashboard over to the driver side pillar (which pulls right off because there's a curtain airbag behind it) and tucked it along between the windshield and dash, securing the antenna to a small flat area close to the glass, roughly in line with the steering wheel. It's small and unobtrusive, and you would never notice it unless you were looking for it. The cable is completely hidden except for about 1 inch.
Like R-Dub, I do not miss the USB ports because I only connect using wireless CarPlay. I use an adapter in the power port to charge my phone wirelessly with a wireless dash mount.
 
For those that installed the Kenwood head units, is the new reciever screen recessed in the Metra trim plate? I tried this once, but wasnt happy with how recessed it was and returned everything. I noticed a black trim on the Kenwood units, did you remove this?
 
For those that installed the Kenwood head units, is the new reciever screen recessed in the Metra trim plate? I tried this once, but wasnt happy with how recessed it was and returned everything. I noticed a black trim on the Kenwood units, did you remove this?
Hey Skibmg,

If you look at the photos posted by R-Dub you can see the slightly recessed screen with the Metra Trim Plate. That is as good as it gets. It does not fit with the Kenwood Trim Ring installed. You might be able to use a dremel to cut away some of the Metra Trim Plate to push the HU out a bit further if you wanted to. It doesn’t bother me really, although it’s definitely not as smooth or seamless in appearance as the factory radio. The positive aspects of CarPlay far outweigh any negatives for me.
 
Thanks panic. I thought that’s what the images showed but was hard to tell from the reflections. I might mess around with the trim plate as you say since it is only $15 to buy a new one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks panic. I thought that’s what the images showed but was hard to tell from the reflections. I might mess around with the trim plate as you say since it is only $15 to buy a new one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you come up with something more attractive, please keep us posted!
 
I'm eventually planning on replacing the HK head unit in my Outback and I think I can still get a factory USB port to work. If I downgrade to the single port USB, Base model USB, then it should work with the single USB adapter Crutchfield sells Metra AX-SUBUSB. I don't like the cord dangling, so even if this doesn't work there are other options (that have to be modified to work). I was a car audio installer for ~ 10 years before I went back to school, so this should be easy.

I'm planning on getting this for a more modern look: Kenwood DMX1057XR
Did you ever try downgrading to the base model USB from the dual USB? I'm looking to upgrade my headunit but don't want to loose the USB connectivity and don't want to have a dangling USB port.
 
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