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I noticed a couple of surface rust underneath the car and was told by the dealer that's normal and it won't penetrate the metal.

1 - does this look normal on a 4 months old car ?
2 - anyone knows a good rust proof coating ?
 

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"rust never sleeps" - Neil Young (via rust-o-leum)
 

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Looks normal to me. Nothing I would lose sleep over. Cover it up with some POR15 and it will never rust again.
 

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benign in general.

if you live in a rust prone area - schedule under car washes frequently and definitely a few in the spring/after the road treatments are gone. so the chemicals aren't sitting on components all summer or as the weather heats up.
 

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Totally normal........rust really doesn't sleep, it doesn't even doze......this is surface rust, nothing more, the body panels are double galvanized, as far as I know......that's what counts.

2003 Forester with 157K miles, NO body rust after daily driving in NJ and NH thru snow and ice storms, just a careful chassis wash when the roads were clear and temps up into the 40s to 50s, pay attention to wheel wells and suspension points when spraying water under the car, NO HEATED GARAGES (speeds and promotes rust, trust me, I went to college in Syracuse, NY and know all about vehicle rust and garage temps!), just common sense care. Modern cars don't need rust proofing add-ons and, in fact, some of them actually trap moisture and cause penetrating rust that WILL damage metal.....

After weather warms up, go over the exterior and check/repair stone chips, etc, asap.........other than that, don't stress, life is too short.

Enjoy the new wheels!

Steve
 

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Totally normal........rust really doesn't sleep, it doesn't even doze......this is surface rust, nothing more, the body panels are double galvanized, as far as I know......that's what counts.

2003 Forester with 157K miles, NO body rust after daily driving in NJ and NH thru snow and ice storms, just a careful chassis wash when the roads were clear and temps up into the 40s to 50s, pay attention to wheel wells and suspension points when spraying water under the car, NO HEATED GARAGES (speeds and promotes rust, trust me, I went to college in Syracuse, NY and know all about vehicle rust and garage temps!), just common sense care. Modern cars don't need rust proofing add-ons and, in fact, some of them actually trap moisture and cause penetrating rust that WILL damage metal.....

After weather warms up, go over the exterior and check/repair stone chips, etc, asap.........other than that, don't stress, life is too short.

Enjoy the new wheels!

Steve
Live in Indiana and this is encouraging to know! Word has it that coating is put on in the assembly line...so I have heard. I have been in the Indiana Subaru plant many times years ago but didn't cross my mind to ask than (as I was a Toyota family back then).
 

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Your pictures are showing surface rust on suspension and motor(?) assemblies. If it was on body sheet metal then there would be a concern.

You probably can use some kind of spray sealer/lubricant to cover the rusty bits. Be careful doing this since the biggest rusty bit could be part of the braking system. Might also damage rubber suspension bits and cause more damage than it fixes.

Hey everybody wants to have a rust free car, some rust is going to happen.
 

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The really tough part about rust is that what you see is only just the surface. It's the deep crevices and welds where rust takes hold and eventually costs you big time. And all the spray you apply will rarely reach to those spots that will eventually matter most.

If you don't believe me, ask those of us who lost our Gen-2 Outbacks to rear subframe rot.
 

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The really tough part about rust is that what you see is only just the surface. It's the deep crevices and welds where rust takes hold and eventually costs you big time. And all the spray you apply will rarely reach to those spots that will eventually matter most.

If you don't believe me, ask those of us who lost our Gen-2 Outbacks to rear subframe rot.
Good point. When I sprayed Fluidfilm, I sprayed into the crevices first (used a spray can extension wand from eBay) and worked my way out. I would also recommend removing the fender wells and spraying behind there as well.

I asked a well-known local auto body/restoration shop how they would provide rust prevention with costs and time to complete the job. They said they use 3M products and two days. They would remove door panels, fender wells etc. spray and let drip for a few hours before reinstalling panels. The cost would be around $500. As those in the snowy parts of the US and Canada know, rust prevention is serious business.
 

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And all the spray you apply will rarely reach to those spots that will eventually matter most.
True. This is one case where thinner (i.e. lower viscosity) is better than thick. Capillary action will "wick" thin protective fluids into cracks, crevices, and the inevitable voids between mating parts of threaded fasteners (nuts, bolts, screws, studs, etc.).
 
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True. This is one case where thinner (i.e. lower viscosity) is better than thick. Capillary action will "wick" thin protective fluids into cracks, crevices, and the inevitable voids between mating parts of threaded fasteners (nuts, bolts, screws, studs, etc.).
This is positive one aspect of Fluidfilm. It is thin with a waxy oily consistency that creeps into crevices. It saved my old BMW.
 

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The rust you see is on cast iron parts that were lightly painted and then machined. The machined surfaces are not repainted before installed on the car so you have bare metal that with one exposure to moisture will surface rust quickly. Cast iron will take an eternity to rust to the point of major concern but this doesn't mean you have to ignore it.
Best weatherproofing Ive ever used is from Kano Labs called Weatherpruf (phonetic spelling) that you can purchase in aresol cans to be more precise with your coverage. I've used it for years and keeps parts well protected. Would suggest light annual re-treatment of the highly exposed areas.
 

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Kano Labs is the maker of Kroil. Liked it so much that I bought a gallon can of it around 20 years ago - a lifetime supply!
 

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Kano Labs is the maker of Kroil. Liked it so much that I bought a gallon can of it around 20 years ago - a lifetime supply!
Kroil is good stuff. I have a couple spray cans of it. Also used Kreen on my old BMW to help flush out engine crud.
 

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I noticed a couple of surface rust underneath the car and was told by the dealer that's normal and it won't penetrate the metal.

1 - does this look normal on a 4 months old car ?
2 - anyone knows a good rust proof coating ?
My Outback is 2016 Model. When was carried out, they found surface rust on the underbody of vehicle. The fluid cost and NZD $24.00 (Under sealer) and costs $NZD251 in total.

I had Toyota Corrolla for 15 years and there was no underbody surface rust??
 

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Looks like the surfaces of these parts must be machined after they are painted, and the bare steel rusts. I use Corrosion Free on my vehicles with excellent results. I've got a 2003 Silverado that still looks brand new as proof that it works in central NY winters. It's a Canadian product similar to Krown or Rust Check but the Corrosion Free is fairly thick and doesn't drip for days after application, yet still creeps to be able to get into seams and crevices. CF has a really good application gun with hoses and adapters to be able to get into all the "nooks and crannies". I spray the entire underside, including in the unibody (frame on Silverado), inside doors, rockers, hood, rear hatch, inside fenders (remove taillights for access), inside bumper frame, etc. The plastic panels come off the underside with just a few bolts and plastic clips giving access to entire underside. I do my vehicles every fall and it takes me about an hour each up on my lift.
 

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don't worry about it. I got a 10 year old outback and it has very little rust on the parts... keep car clean and spray it with an oil based undercoating in the fall.
 
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