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Discussion Starter #1
Bought an 2019 Outback 7 months ago. The mileage on the car today is around 8000. No problems with the car whatsoever until now. The other day my wife went to start the car and it wouldn't crank. Lights, radio, door locking, etc all work. When you try to start the car, it will do nothing the first two times you push the starter button. The third time you'll get the error message "keyless access system disabled" then "check owner's manual". Put the battery on a charger and took no time at all to full charge. Tried to start car with battery charger set to "start" with no success. Battery terminals are squeaky clean. Checked fuses and none are blown. Car recognizes both fobs. Problem exists regardless of fob used. We have tried the suggested fixes in the owner's manual with no luck. Not a lot of info on this problem with a google search. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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With your foot on the brake pedal, and the keyless access message displayed, if you hold the fob against the start button with the fob buttons pointed toward you, does the ignition turn on and the gauges self check (dash lights, gauge sweep, etc)?

If not, you might try disconnecting the battery, pressing the brake pedal to discharge things, and reconnecting the battery. You’d have to redo some customizations and reset your power windows, but that’s not difficult to do.
 

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2019 Outback 2.5i Limited
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The car is under bumper to bumper warranty, isn't it ? What does dealer say ? You can actually call the road service.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
With your foot on the brake pedal, and the keyless access message displayed, if you hold the fob against the start button with the fob buttons pointed toward you, does the ignition turn on and the gauges self check (dash lights, gauge sweep, etc)?

If not, you might try disconnecting the battery, pressing the brake pedal to discharge things, and reconnecting the battery. You’d have to redo some customizations and reset your power windows, but that’s not difficult to do.

Thanks for the reply walker. Whether we attempt to start the vehicle by pushing the starter button with a finger or with the fob touching, the same thing happens. The gauges sweep and the dash lights flash but do not stay on. The headlights also flash. I tried both ways again after I got your reply and also disconnected the battery, depressed the brake pedal, reconnected battery and tried again. No change.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The car is under bumper to bumper warranty, isn't it ? What does dealer say ? You can actually call the road service.
We are trying to make arrangements with the dealer to have them look at it but we live 4 hours away so.... And road service is up to their eyeballs with emergency calls. Big weekend and winter storm. We will get it to the dealer but it’s going to be a few days. I just didn’t want to miss the solution if it was something simple or something stupid on my part that I was missing.
 

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2017 3.6R Limited with Eye Sight
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I just didn’t want to miss the solution if it was something simple or something stupid on my part that I was missing.
I know this is the equivalent of tech support saying...."Is the computer plugged into a working outlet?"....but:

You're pushing the break pedal firmly while you press the start button...right?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know this is the equivalent of tech support saying...."Is the computer plugged into a working outlet?"....but:

You're pushing the break pedal firmly while you press the start button...right?
No worries JD. I appreciate any and all suggestions. Yes we are firmly pushing the brake pedal.
 

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No worries JD. I appreciate any and all suggestions. Yes we are firmly pushing the brake pedal.
Just keeping on the point about brake pedal pressure, IF the brake booster has lost vacuum, the pressure needed on the brake pedal is much much more than normal. The pedal gets “rock hard” and can be extremely difficult to get it to move.

It may be worthwhile trying again with what seems excessive pressure just to confirm this is not the problem (if you have not already done so)

Seagrass
 

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There is a method to tell if you are pushing the brake pedal hard enough. If the speedometer and tachometer spin over to their maximum and back on the first push of the start button, then the car is attempting to start. In this case you have some other problem, such as a failed battery, bad starter, etc.

If the two gauges do not sweep, then you have put the car in accessory mode. A second push transitions to run mode (or starts the car if foot is on the brake). Third push shuts everything off.

I don’t think it likely that not pressing the brake sufficiently is your problem, as you get a message along the lines of “depress brake to start car” if not pressing sufficiently hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the suggestions, I really appreciate them. And just to let everyone know, I am disconnecting and reconnecting the battery prior to each attempt to clear the "keyless access system disabled" message.

When attempting to start the vehicle, the gauge needles do sweep back and forth.

Tried different brake pedal pressures including really hard pressure with no luck.

Since the vehicle is my wife's daily driver, I hardly ever use it so I have no "feel" if the car is acting differently. With the talk about the brake pedal, I asked my her if she noticed a difference. She does. She feels that the brake pedal does not feel like it did before the problem. Her term is that the vehicle feels "locked up".

We are not able to disengage the parking brake but that might be a function of the vehicle not running.

Mechanically, I'm leaning toward the starter but by the time I get to changing that out, hopefully the vehicle will be in a dealers service bay. Although we have not heard from Roadside Service as of right now.
 

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Sounds like a failed battery to me. Normal-ish voltage so the lights and electricals operate ok, but no t enough amps available to crank the engine or even operate the parking brake.
 

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It does seem to keep pointing to just a bad battery. Maybe a dead cell. I've had batteries that appear to take a charge and the voltage seems okay but they won't start a vehicle. I would try a different battery, if for no other reason to either rule it out as the problem or confirm it. But then again I usually have a battery laying around that I can easily do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Appreciate those suggestions. I'll look at testing the battery CCA and the CA. I'll post what I find.
 

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White 2019 Touring 3.6R, Silver 2015 Forester Touring 2.5i
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Stop Brake Light Switch 83311FJ001 could be bad. It happened to our 2015 Forester and Subaru later came out with a recall.

On our Forester, it would not start normally. But if we depressed the brake pedal and held in the start button for 15-30 seconds it would start every time (with an ABS warning). Have you tried this?

The part was $20 at the time and took a few minutes to swap out. No tools needed.
 

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Although batteries can do strange things, at this point I don't see any evidence of this being a bad battery. All it would take is a voltmeter connected to the battery posts and someone to try to start the car while the meter is monitored. Presumably, if the lights etc work, the voltage of the battery will be in a reasonable range until the Start button is pressed. If the battery is bad, the voltage will then drop significantly as the load of the starter is applied.

Similarly, if the dome light is turned on, the brake pedal is down and the Start button is then pressed, if the battery is unable to deliver sufficient current to run the starter motor, its voltage will drop significantly and the dome light will dim.

If there's no significant drop in the battery voltage when the Start button is pressed, then the starter system isn't being activated, and the problem is more likely elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Used a Schumacher BTF-250 battery tester on the battery. Shows 12.85 volts and 530 CCA. Battery is rated 490 CCA so at least with the tester, the battery seems ok. Still want to try plain OM's suggestion to see if there is a significant drop in voltage when the start button is pushed. Vehicle is in a single car garage nose first so not able use another vehicle to try and jumpstart - distance too far and can't disengage parking brake or get the vehicle out of drive to push back. Will also look into the brake light switch as well if getting the vehicle to a dealer continues to be delayed.
 

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distance too far and can't disengage parking brake or get the vehicle out of drive
Did you mean "out of drive" or "out of Park"?

The parking brake should be able to be engaged or released with the ignition On without the engine running. If this is combined with not being able to shift out of Park, that could be a clue.

When the brake pedal is pressed, do all the stop lights at the back come on?

[When the brake pedal is pressed, power is sent to the stop light bulbs, but also to the Body Integrated Unit, which controls the shift lock solenoid and has a role in the parking brake control. In many cases, where the Owners Manual says to depress the brake pedal in relation to doing something else, it's because the power to the bulbs is being used by the other function controller to verify that the brakes are being applied. If there's no power on that line when the pedal is pressed, the controller will not respond. And, the starter circuit of the pushbutton start system is tied in as well.]
 

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Did you try my method to get it started?
 
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