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That's why I'm leasing my wife's Forester. If we get a good Oklahoma hard rain in the spring (meaning golf ball sized hail) that does $6K worth of damage, then we fix it, paying the deductible, and at the end of the lease, drop off the keys and $300. And if we DON'T get any damage, I'll do a trade-in, where the dealership gives me more for the car than the actual residual value, and just lease another one.
Interesting...what is tge 300 for? I was planning on paying cash, but maybe there are merits to leasing?
 
Interesting...what is tge 300 for? I was planning on paying cash, but maybe there are merits to leasing?
If you do NOT trade your car in - you're simply dropping the keys off - there's a $300 lease disposition fee. The only way it really comes into play is if you're NOT getting another Subaru.

If you drive more than 15,000 miles per year, then you want to buy your car. If you drive UNDER that, the sweet spot for a Subaru lease is 36 months, and 15/12/10 k miles per year, depending upon which you choose. For us, 10 k was too little, so we got 12 k. Note that leases end up being a little state dependent. Down here, for example, I have to pay TT&L up front, but there's no other fees involved. Other states have other fees, so your results may vary. Standard rule of thumb on a lease is figure out what the 72 month payment would be. Then knock about $100 off that. My 2019 Forester is an option 32, I stuck another $1,000 worth of accessories on it, and I'm paying just under $325 per month for it. (It's a $35k Forester.)

The neat thing is, since the residual value is fixed at the start of the lease, if I decided to purchase the car at the end of lease, all I have to do is pay the residual value. Either refinance it, stroke a check, or whatever. Or trade it in. It'll be worth as a trade-in about $2k more than the residual, that'll cover my TT&L, and I'll get a new car. When I finally get ready to retire, THEN I'll consider buying, because at that point I'll keep the thing forever.
 
If you do NOT trade your car in - you're simply dropping the keys off - there's a $300 lease disposition fee. The only way it really comes into play is if you're NOT getting another Subaru.

If you drive more than 15,000 miles per year, then you want to buy your car. If you drive UNDER that, the sweet spot for a Subaru lease is 36 months, and 15/12/10 k miles per year, depending upon which you choose. For us, 10 k was too little, so we got 12 k. Note that leases end up being a little state dependent. Down here, for example, I have to pay TT&L up front, but there's no other fees involved. Other states have other fees, so your results may vary. Standard rule of thumb on a lease is figure out what the 72 month payment would be. Then knock about $100 off that. My 2019 Forester is an option 32, I stuck another $1,000 worth of accessories on it, and I'm paying just under $325 per month for it. (It's a $35k Forester.)

The neat thing is, since the residual value is fixed at the start of the lease, if I decided to purchase the car at the end of lease, all I have to do is pay the residual value. Either refinance it, stroke a check, or whatever. Or trade it in. It'll be worth as a trade-in about $2k more than the residual, that'll cover my TT&L, and I'll get a new car. When I finally get ready to retire, THEN I'll consider buying, because at that point I'll keep the thing forever.
Thanks...wondering if i would have to pay property tax on a lease vehicle...doesnt seem so?
Have no idea how many miles i will drive when i retire.
82000 miles on my Legacy company car i got in april 2018. Planning to slow down !
 
Our OB was hit Five years ago...$8,000.00 damage. As the years have passed I think that some of the larger issues that have cropped up and have have been fixed since then were a trickle down effect from that initial thumping. Cars just do no run well after being repaired after a big impact...no matter what the insurance company says.
 
OP, glad you are OK, the Subaru did it's job and protected you. Car does not look to be totaled but they will not know until they get into it.

as for leasing this is my take on it

leasing is renting and it's always fun paying for about half of the car and then turning it in so you can pay for another half.

we will use the current legacy lease for $235/month for the base (straight from Subaru Website)

so your payments would be (not including tax, title, fees, etc) for 36 months (based upon the zip code I entered)

$8460 (36mo at $235/mo).
$2635 due at signing.
$0 security deposit.

so for 3 years it cost you at a minimum $11,095 on a car that costs $22,745 so yeah you paid for nearly half of the car that you have to return or buy at an inflated price.. To add insult to injury Subaru/Finance/Dealer will then turn around and SELL that car for roughly $18-19K. so yeah you get the short end of that stick.

Questions is, is that perpetual car payment worth it? For most it is not> I tend to keep cars for a decade or more...
 
Their last activity was 2 months ago. Hard to say if they will let us know the outcome of the accident.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Hi everyone.

It’s been a while!

So, my car was at the shop for 3 months due to a back-ordered lift gate (2020...new model woes).

After getting my car back, I noticed the lift gate leaking, so I took it back and got it repaired..happened a few more times until they did body adjustments.

An additional month was spent at the dealership because the hands free sensor didn’t work anymore - tons of troubleshooting and subaru engineering involved - ended up being that the collision center put in a wrong communication antenna.

Apart from that, everything is well - no injuries were sustained. Blue is back!

Oh yea, I picked up an Ascent touring yesterday as well...we now have twin turbos haha.

Thanks for the concerns!

487182
 
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