[rkporsley]

When the ignition is turned to On (not Start), as you noted, the pump runs for a second or two. That should prime the system, although it might take two or three cycles to really see how high it will go. Running the engine is a good idea, but if that won't work, at least the line should be primed and there's a good idea of whether or not it's reaching the right pressure. Also, once the pump stops running, the pressure should hold; if it drops rapidly, that could again indicate the cap is leaking, or there's a problem elsewhere.

Note: the fuel pressure gauge is connected into the fuel delivery line using a "T" (usually at the fuel filter connection) so that the fuel rails and fuel pressure regulator downstream of the filter are all in the system during testing.

Thanks, I'll get a fuel pressure tester from an auto shop and see what the result is. If it is low or not holding pressure, are there other things I should do before replacing the assembly with the cracked cap?

 

[berto]

I'm tempted to just buy a whole new assembly for $340 (in stock here in Anchorage). I can't be without a car for work next week. Already missed some this week and had to work out rides today. If the cap is cracked and that was the issue before, I don't see why something else would cause the issue this time.

@rkporsley I am also located in Anchorage. It may be the solder/weld job on the cap done by A&A failed, or the o-ring is damaged. I have a new fuel pump cap and the o-ring for an H6 in my garage if you want to try installing them.

 

[rkporsley]

@rkporsley I am also located in Anchorage. It may be the solder/weld job on the cap done by A&A failed, or the o-ring is damaged. I have a new fuel pump cap and the o-ring for an H6 in my garage if you want to try installing them.

Thanks! I'll post the results when I can.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Amazon sells a Dorman-branded kit that looks just like that NAPA one, cheaper too.

 

[plain OM]

If it is low or not holding pressure, are there other things I should do before replacing the assembly with the cracked cap?

Perhaps, with the tester "T" adapter in the fuel supply line at the filter, after a few cycles of the pump, see if the pressure reaches the spec. If ti does, then crimp the rubber hose after "T" adapter. If the pressure doesn't drop, the problem is downstream, i.e., it could be a leaking injector or failed pressure regulator, both of which could affect starting. If the pressure still drops as before, then the cause is upstream of the "T" adapter, meaning the pump or leaking line from the pump, although in the latter case fumes would be a giveaway. But the first thing will be to see if the pump does build up pressure when priming.