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'13 Touring 2.5i CVT, ice silver
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Sooooo....

Something very interesting this oil change...

1) The dipstick shows that it was on the low mark (no oil light) @6100 miles

2) With a Subaru OEM filter change, the car required exactly 7.2QTs of oil to get to the full mark on the dipstick. (Proper checking requires letting the car sit overnight, and pulling the dipstick once all of the oil has returned to the crank case.)

3) Using a graduated 8 QT collection container (scientific) I was able to recover 6.7QTs of oil. (The engine was hot...)

There is no doubt that the dipstick went from full to low during 6100 miles of operation. Thats a fact.

Whats odd, is that I recall putting in 7.1QTs of Castrol GTX last time...

The manual indicates that the dipstick is 1.1QTs of oil from FULL to LOW. Clearly, thats not the case...

What am I missing?!
Interesting indeed! Did you actually measure in 7.1qts when you first filled it? If yes, not accounting for whatever remained in the filter, then the engine consumed less than 0.4qts in 6100 miles. That in my book is acceptable and nothing to worry about.

On the subject of the accuracy of the dipstick, I haven't been able to consistently interpret that thing since I bought the car. It seems to be all over the place to me: low one day, just fine the next, a bit high the day after that. That's why, like you, I now measure how much oil I take out and put in at each oil change and do my best to correlate these known quantities against the dipstick reading at that time. Still, I'm never 100% confident whenever I read that thing. I recently got new glasses however, maybe that'll help!
 

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2019 Ascent Touring / 2019 Tesla M3
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I have an 8QT graduated cylinder for measuring what goes in... Primarly, i use that for the ATF, given what a PITA checking that level is!

There is NO doubt that i pit in 7.1QTs last time, and this time it really did take 7.2QTs.

I always change the filter and the procedure is:

- Drain the car, and collect the oil
- Pull the filter, and collect that oil
- Put new filter and washer on, etc.
- Add 6.5QTs of oil, then start the car - run it for 30 sec
- Let car sit for at least 30-60 minutes
- Top off oil
- Start the car, maybe drive it, etc.
- Let the car sit overnight, and top / check the oil and make sure its at the full mark exactly


I have had the oil light turn on in this car. However, it appears that 10W30 GTX is not burning at the rate Moble 1 was.

Contrastingly, the 2.5FB we have in the car DOES burn lots of oil; at least 2QTs every 6000 miles. (That engine also has a OCI of 7500 miles.)

From now on Im driving the 3.6 until the light comes on, and then draining the engine. (According to the dipstick, that would be about 7000 miles)
 

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Oh yeah, a sample went out to Blackstone...
 

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Does anyone know which type of oil would be used up less, between synthetic or dino oil?? Have any 3.6r owners seen less burn with synthetic vs dino or vice versa? Since 3.6 owners have the luxury of using either oil (at least on '15 and later), I would like to ensure that when I get mine I stick with the oil type that car has less of an appetite for!
 

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I have see the oil light turn on with Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 vs Castrol GTX 10w30.

I'm now trying the Castrol GTX High Milage, which is supposed to be a synthetic blend with anti-burn additives.

What IS the case is that the "high milage" flavor is a higher viscosity at operating temp, which would likely result in less burning.

So I'm testing that now... the test began this Saturday. I'm going to run it for 6100 miles, drain it, measure the oil the comes out of the crank case / oil filter, grab a sample for Black Stone Labs, and determine how much oil I have burnt.

I started with 7.2Qts to get to the full mark on the dipstick.

If you REALLY want to try a synthetic oil:

The Manual says, that you can use 10w30 or 10w40.... which means that as long as its the proper type of oil specification, you can use those. Moreover, you can pretty much ignore the > 0F, as if it's synthetic oil, it'll be fine at -20F.

Also, Redline oils are at the MAX viscosity for the specification... e.g. Redline oils are less likely to burn compared to thinner oils like Mobil 1 even if they are the same xWy spec.
 

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Lastest Oil Report from Black Stone on my 3.6R:

Basically, the 10W30 oil that can be used in the unit was a little thin. At the time I had yet to determine that the dipstick is completely inaccurate on the 3.6 H-6 EZ36 engines and is making it very difficult to track oil burn.

To reacp:

Drained out 6.7QTs of oil, and started with 7 QTS.

Full procedure for vehicles burning oil:

I have since realized that the engine so be initally filled with 6.5QTs, be run for 15 minute, sit overnight on a flat level surface, and a topped off to the full mark on the dipstick.

This is probably the only way to consistantly track oil usage and ensure the car is properly filled.
 

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IIRC my 2012 owners manual states that the oil capacity of the 3.6 engine is 7.4 quarts of oil with an oil filter change.
 

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You can put 0w40 oil in that engine... Syntheic of course.

The manual speficies that you can use 10w30 or 10w40.

Most 0w40 synthetic oils are formulated for the european market, and are somewhat lower burning.

Oddly. It actually seems to matter what oil you use in the H6.

My EZ36 is an odd bird... The dipstick goes down from the high to low mark, but ive only used .3QTs in 6000 miles. Super odd....
 

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Castrol GTX High Mileage is synthtic blend motor oil. You stated that this oil has a higher vicosity at operating. This oil contains a seal conditioner. The seal conditioner makes the seals in your engine swell up. Thus reducing external oil leaks and internal oil leaks such as valve guide seals. This oil is not at a higher viscosity at operating temperature than any other brand of oil. Motor oils contain Phosphorus which is an anti wear agent. Phosphorus in oil is perfectly fine as long as the engine is not burning motor oil. If an engine is burning oil the Phosphorus is deadly for the catalytic converter. This is why Castrol GTX High Mileage contains a phosphorus replacement chemical that will not harm the catalytic converter if the engine is burning some oil. Always follow the vehicle manufacturers recomendations for motor oil viscosity. Newer vehicles have bearing surfaces that have lower presures than older style engines. They use more ball bearing to accomplish this thus reducing/eliminating the posibility of shearing the oil molecules. Sheared oil molecules have severly reduced lubrication qualities. This is how they are able to utilise oil viscosities below the 10W30 range. Lower oil vicosities allow the engine to work less therefore consuming less fuel, creating less heat and having heat carried away quicker because the oil flows faster. In newer vehicles never use a viscosity higher than recomended to prevent oil starvation to bearings and other parts. Conversely you cannot use low viscosity motor oil in older engines that called for 10W30 or 5W30. Using 5W20 or lower viscosity in older engines will cause damage to the engine via oil molecule shearing.
I have see the oil light turn on with Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 vs Castrol GTX 10w30.

I'm now trying the Castrol GTX High Milage, which is supposed to be a synthetic blend with anti-burn additives.

What IS the case is that the "high milage" flavor is a higher viscosity at operating temp, which would likely result in less burning.

So I'm testing that now... the test began this Saturday. I'm going to run it for 6100 miles, drain it, measure the oil the comes out of the crank case / oil filter, grab a sample for Black Stone Labs, and determine how much oil I have burnt.

I started with 7.2Qts to get to the full mark on the dipstick.

If you REALLY want to try a synthetic oil:

The Manual says, that you can use 10w30 or 10w40.... which means that as long as its the proper type of oil specification, you can use those. Moreover, you can pretty much ignore the > 0F, as if it's synthetic oil, it'll be fine at -20F.

Also, Redline oils are at the MAX viscosity for the specification... e.g. Redline oils are less likely to burn compared to thinner oils like Mobil 1 even if they are the same xWy spec.
 

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Go pull up the 100Cst information on Castrol HM and compare it to the others.

The specification / data sheets show it being thicker than everything in the same winter weight specification with the exception of Red Line.

Red Line always seems to be at the top end of the specification for a given winter weight oil. Mobil 1, on the flip side, is exactly the opposite, it's almost always on the light end of the specification.

Aside from formulation, overall viscosity appears to matter with the 3.6.

Now, if you want to compare 5W20 oils to 0W20 oils, you'll find something interesting... 0W20 oils seem to be more robust, according to the manufacturers data sheets, again, then 5W20. At least in the realm of viscosity at temperature... Seems they don't want 0w20 to thin out, so many of them seem to start rather high.

Though, it is interesting how Subaru likes to only run new 0W20 oil for 2400 miles only during an oil consumption test. Which tells me that they are concerned about it burning more after it starts to wear... So the manufacturer appears to be concerned about molecule shear, or so the dealer's service manager tells me.
 

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Regarding Outback 3.6R engine oil usage: Some say the 3.6R engine has no problems with oil consumption. However, Consumer Reports says the opposite - the well known by now article of 30 top oil consuming cars, with the Outback 3.6R engine being about No. 12ish, and the older they are (2011 - 2014) the more oil they consume. Additionally, and it was on some Outback Forum conducting a poll of oil usage on the 3.6R, up to 1/3 of the participants reported they used 1 qt. and/or 1qt or more per 3,000 miles. This makes me afraid of buying the 3.6R engine. Has there been any improvements to this engine in recent years to correct oil usage?
 

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2014 2.5 SWP Outback, 2014 3.6R SAP SWP Outback
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Regarding Outback 3.6R engine oil usage: Some say the 3.6R engine has no problems with oil consumption. However, Consumer Reports says the opposite - the well known by now article of 30 top oil consuming cars, with the Outback 3.6R engine being about No. 12ish, and the older they are (2011 - 2014) the more oil they consume. Additionally, and it was on some Outback Forum conducting a poll of oil usage on the 3.6R, up to 1/3 of the participants reported they used 1 qt. and/or 1qt or more per 3,000 miles. This makes me afraid of buying the 3.6R engine. Has there been any improvements to this engine in recent years to correct oil usage?
Maybe I just got a freak, and I'm going to look back over this thread as well to make sure I didn't miss anything, but using just a cheap conventional oil (just buy the cheapest 5w30 I can find at walmart with a subaru filter), my 3.6 doesn't burn a drop. Our 2.5 burns a little, but only about 1/2 quart per 5000 miles. At 20,000 miles on the 3.6. The 2.5 has burned oil since day 1
 

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Mine has 40,000 miles and has never used a drop of oil between changes. (Mobil One every 7500 miles).
 

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2012 Outback 3.6R
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2012 3.6R 48,000 miles about 75% towing a 2200 lb utility trailer.

Never have had to add oil between 6 month oil changes (approx 7500 miles).

Mobil 1 full synthetic oil.
 

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2013 3.6R Limited
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2013 3.6R purchased in November 2015 at 25,500 miles. Now approaching 30,000 miles and I've never had to add a drop of oil. When I do the 30,000-mile service myself in a few weeks I will use Castrol GTX 5W30 conventional oil. That oil has easily carried both Jaguars we own to nearly 100,000 miles with zero engine issues.
 

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2012 Subaru Outback 3.6R Limited, with custom-added always-on auxillary power for an inverter, 3x DC jacks, and a radio transciever.
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What brand oil do you use?

I've got a 2012 3.6R Limited, I've had a couple times using Valvoline conventional oil it seems to vanish without any explanation. The worst was around my 2nd oil change got a low-oil warning (low level, low pressure) after about 2,000 miles. Checked and the dipstick wasn't reading anything, couldn't find any sign of leaks though. I topped it off with Penzoil (also conventional) brand and monitored it very closely thru that oil change it seemed to use less and less but I probably put 2.5-3 quarts in over 5,000 miles. I have no idea what's different with the brands of oil (I thought oil was oil...as long as the weight was correct) but apparently there's something different about it.

Now I do my best to buy or go to shops that use Penzoil brand only. I have been going 5,000 between changes comfortably. It will use a small amount over my 5K change interval (maybe 1/2 quart but still within "full" on dipstick) if I really lay into it hard acceleration a lot but if I go a little easier on the throttle I don't use a single drop. If I do discover it getting in the bottom 1/4 of "full" I will add oil in about 1/4 quart increments until it's 2/3 up the "full" and keep monitoring for a couple days to see that it's staying. I go thru maybe 1 quart per 20K miles at this rate. Also, I may be a bit OCD but I've started doing a pre and post-inspection when I take my car into any shop - because I want to know if it was low on any fluids before the shop touches it and make sure it's still correct after (or at least get a baseline so I can tell if it drops). I also started removing/inspecting each lug-nut after having work done because I've lost 2 from under-tightening and had a shop over-torque 3 wheel bolts to the point they were destroyed.

I just had my 90K mile service on my 2012 3.6R last weekend and it didn't need any topping up since the 85K oil change. Before I went into the shop I checked the dipstick and it was 1/2 way up the "full" area which I think is quite reasonable. When it came out the level was exactly at the "full" dot after sitting overnight or about 3/4 up the "full" a few minutes after shutting the car off.

My parents have a 2013 and 2014 model years both 3.6R Limited and as far as I know they haven't been low on oil though they drive a lot less and don't push them as hard as I do (I think they are each around 10-15K miles currently)
 

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2020 Outback Touring XT, in Crystal White Pearl
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To add an older-vehicle perspective, my 2010 3.6R has a bit over 150k miles on it, and I have to add a quart after about 3500 to 4000 miles. Since I change my oil every 5k, I am basically topping it off once between oil changes.

I started having to do this at around the 125k to 130k point, IIRC. Up until then I was never adding oil between changes.

I assume it is being burnt, rather than leaked, as I have no drips under my car. (No oil smoke, either.) I DO see some signs of minor seeping (weeping?) of oil around the timing chain cover on the driver side, basically a bit of oily film, but this is also close to where the oil filler cap is, so who knows if it's actually seeping past the timing cover gasket...

For a vehicle with 150k+ miles, I'm not complaining....
 

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To add an older-vehicle perspective, my 2010 3.6R has a bit over 150k miles on it, and I have to add a quart after about 3500 to 4000 miles. Since I change my oil every 5k, I am basically topping it off once between oil changes.

I started having to do this at around the 125k to 130k point, IIRC. Up until then I was never adding oil between changes.

I assume it is being burnt, rather than leaked, as I have no drips under my car. (No oil smoke, either.) I DO see some signs of minor seeping (weeping?) of oil around the timing chain cover on the driver side, basically a bit of oily film, but this is also close to where the oil filler cap is, so who knows if it's actually seeping past the timing cover gasket...

For a vehicle with 150k+ miles, I'm not complaining....
I have a 2010 3.6R also, I change the oil every 5,000 miles as well and have to add a quart at around 3,500 miles as well. This has been true since around 80,000 and has not changed any. I don't consider it a problem. My experience is basically the same as yours.
 
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