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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
Been reading all I can about this car and learned a lot so far but never having driven one before, I hope my transmission is normal. I really hate sloppy shifting transmissions.

We did a transmission flush and new filter which didn't change things. When the car is cold, the 1-2 shift and 2-3 shifts are pretty crispy but once the car warms up, they get soft. 1-2 sort of seems like it hesitates. I've tried using sport mode, but it didn't do a lot except my my upshift RPM's pretty high. When we did the tranny fluid, the fluid that came out looked perfect so there wasn't any burned smell or dark coloring.

Also is it normal nature for this thing to downshift pretty easily? Seems it takes very little foot feed to get it to shift into a lower gear. Good for power but not sure if that is normal.

I really want to get the trans to shift stronger, but can't afford the tune right now but it is on my list. If this shift behavior is normal than I won't worry too much about it. We had a 2005 Mustang GT that had a French five speed automatic that was pretty sloppy until I got a custom tune, then it would bark the tires when it would shift up from 1-2. Really made the transmission shift great.

Thanks guys!

John
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,708 Posts
did you use a Subaru ATF-HP or compatible fluid?
 

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Registered
2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
did you use a Subaru ATF-HP or compatible fluid?
Yes indeed. Ordered a case of ten quarts and used all but part of one so it should be squeaky clean. Changed the filter. Used a WIX XP (somewhere on here someone recommended it) but then someone told me I should have used a factory one but that's an easy change.
 

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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
PS I didn't mention, if I do a full throttle start, it does shift a lot firmer but normal driving, is where it's a bit squishy.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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might be normal - some folks with older or 'neglected' soobs have tightened up slow engagement with a bottle of TRans-X.

but, if valves are gummy, you might give the new fluid a few weeks to clean up the internal parts.
 

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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
might be normal - some folks with older or 'neglected' soobs have tightened up slow engagement with a bottle of TRans-X.

but, if valves are gummy, you might give the new fluid a few weeks to clean up the internal parts.
Thanks! Something else I didn't add, the engagement is almost instant so I don't have any delay when shifting from reverse to drive. That seems like it works perfect and I've read that some folks have problems with slow engagement.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,318 Posts
a whole lot of 5EAT and H6 people here have custom tunes from XRT for the engine and trans.

(just need a Tactrix and a windows laptop with free Rom-raider)

= @west_minist = Ed at XRT.
 

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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
a whole lot of 5EAT and H6 people here have custom tunes from XRT for the engine and trans.

(just need a Tactrix and a windows laptop with free Rom-raider)

= @west_minist = Ed at XRT.
Indeed..I emailed Ed, very nice guy. He gave me a quote, similar to what I paid for the one in my Mustang. That one included the hardware which was nice.. It's on my list, but been hemorrhaging money lately so that will have to wait while I see what else goes wrong with this car I just bought. I imagine though, the car will be much more enjoyable with a tune. Better umph at low end would be nice! The performance reminds me of a car with a turbo. Stomp it from a stop, and it leisurely takes off, then all of a sudden ZOOMM! The love kicks in (along with the shudder from I suspect is the axles)
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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is 2005 the first year for DBW in that car ?
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,144 Posts
The love kicks in (along with the shudder from I suspect is the axles)
It might be your transmission mount that is shuddering. In insert might tighten that up, or you may need a new mount.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172995518800

I have both cars tuned by XRT and I really like my 5EATs. They are predictive, they hold gears when I want them to and I am rarely surprised by their shifting habits. They seem to be right where I need them to be.
 

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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
It might be your transmission mount that is shuddering. In insert might tighten that up, or you may need a new mount.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172995518800

I have both cars tuned by XRT and I really like my 5EATs. They are predictive, they hold gears when I want them to and I am rarely surprised by their shifting habits. They seem to be right where I need them to be.
I did check it when we did the trans flush and it looked good, but someone here told me I need to lift the transmission to make sure it's not split. I'll get under there this weekend with the floor jack and block of wood. This insert, do you have to take the mount out to put that in? If I have to replace the mount, I'll surely get one of those. Is the blue one all I need, even if I get a tune?
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,144 Posts
Yes, you do need to to remove the mount to install the insert, and bench vise or several clamps. Some people have jacked the transmission up to stretch the mount and then press it in by hand in the car. I don't recommend doing that on well used mount as the jacking and stretching can cause the mount to fail.

The Blue Insert can be had in any color. I typically stock blue, red and dark grey or black.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Yes, you do need to to remove the mount to install the insert, and bench vise or several clamps. Some people have jacked the transmission up to stretch the mount and then press it in by hand in the car. I don't recommend doing that on well used mount as the jacking and stretching can cause the mount to fail.

The Blue Insert can be had in any color. I typically stock blue, red and dark grey or black.
Oh sorry,
I thought the color denoted the hardness. Thanks for the tips!

John
 

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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
drive by wire - electronic throttle.

I think you may have one

anyway, just wondering, early dbw pedal assemblies have weird failures.

even without a P2138 or w'ever code , or it going into limp bode, I'd swap to the updated assembly.

yeah; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forum...4906-code-p2138-throttle-position-sensor.html
I read through that thread and got the impression that the new style and old style are not interchangeable? I'd hate to spend the money for that if it's not bad. the linear-ness of my throttle action seems to be smooth. Don't really have any driveability issues but one thing I might ask, when we changed the oil in the transmission, we had to take out the battery. Does this require resetting the throttle? I've ran across some posts where people have mentioned doing that. That i've not done but it didn't seem to drive any different afterwards.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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the style with 2 springs has been updated I think - not sure if TSB or a true recall.....anyone?

it may be a good idea to try zeroing the pedal assembly, I thought you were reporting some lack of performance until more pedal was pushed in - to me, that could mean a zero position problem OR some kind of worn area on the resistive 'tracks' in side the pedal. just something that I thought could be related.
 

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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
the style with 2 springs has been updated I think - not sure if TSB or a true recall.....anyone?

it may be a good idea to try zeroing the pedal assembly, I thought you were reporting some lack of performance until more pedal was pushed in - to me, that could mean a zero position problem OR some kind of worn area on the resistive 'tracks' in side the pedal. just something that I thought could be related.
I mentioned that it seemed a bit laggy at low end (not like it's cutting out, more like it just doesn't have a lot of gitty up go until you reach higher RPM, then it takes off), but I suspect that's a torque thing. Perhaps the engine doesn't develop it's optimum torque until higher up? The feeling is like cars with turbo lag. Where all your power all of a sudden comes on after you reach a certain rpm. Only lasts a second or so.
 

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I suppose my thinking is; the pedal tells the ECU the driver is demanding power, then, based on present engine parameters, the ECU opens the throttle, opens the injectors, maybe changes the ignition timing, and makes some decisions about unlocking the TC and maybe downshifting

that's a lot that could change the way the car 'feels' if those little resistor traces are dirty or worn out.
 

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2006 Outback LL Bean H6. Ivory interior, Moss green exterior. 132K
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I suppose my thinking is; the pedal tells the ECU the driver is demanding power, then, based on present engine parameters, the ECU opens the throttle, opens the injectors, maybe changes the ignition timing, and makes some decisions about unlocking the TC and maybe downshifting

that's a lot that could change the way the car 'feels' if those little resistor traces are dirty or worn out.
I just checked and my Ultragauge can check relative throttle position 0-100%. Maybe I'll check that and see what sorts of readings I get at idle, WOT and slowly in between to see if I get any funny jumps in the readings..Just got the book out on the Ultragauge, it can display all sorts of things plus display and clear codes.
 
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