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2011 Outback Prm AWP 6MT
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

Ever since I purchased my car in May of 2012, the car would jerk one or more times coming on or off the throttle. The car can be in any gear, and the clutch is always fully engaged when this occurs. Being in a low gear, high in the rev range, and letting off the throttle, will greatly exacerbate the issue. It does not matter necessarily how quickly I let off the throttle.

Basically it feels like a really rough transition from acceleration to deceleration or vice versa. When transitioning from deceleration to acceleration, often times the jerk will be accompanied by a clunking noise from the transmission.

Roughly 100-200 miles ago I had the transmission and rear diff fluids changed with Subaru Extra-S gear oil. While I saw improvements, this phenomenon still occurs gets quite annoying after a while, especially in slow moving stop and go traffic.

Has anyone else encountered and issue like this before? What could be the root cause and is there a solution?

Thanks!
 

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Gallery Ninja, ,
2004 Outback "Bluebaru" & 2005 Outback XT
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5,195 Posts
And your Outback is a non turbo 04 model, yes? This eliminates at least one of the issues.
 

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2000 Outback 5MT
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425 Posts
Check this thread

Go look at your outback's rear differential bushings and tell me if they look like the first picture in that thread. I had started a thread a while ago asking the same question and it ended up being these bushings. A few days ago I replaced them with solid poly bushings and holy ****, I love my car now.



These are the bushings I put in, they are SuperPro.
 

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2011 Outback Prm AWP 6MT
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yes, my car is an NA 2.5L. But awesome, I'll go outside and check during my lunch break and take a picture. Thanks for the input so far, I'll check back in later.
 

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06 Outback 2.5i, 05 Outback Limited
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868 Posts
Check this thread

Go look at your outback's rear differential bushings and tell me if they look like the first picture in that thread. I had started a thread a while ago asking the same question and it ended up being these bushings. A few days ago I replaced them with solid poly bushings and holy ****, I love my car now.

These are the bushings I put in, they are SuperPro.
How difficult did you find that job to be? My rear diff bushings are shot; I've been thinking about putting bushing inserts in versus replacing them.
 

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DIY-Turbo 2.2l OBS 12.89s 1/4mile @ 106.17MPH
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399 Posts
Check this thread

Go look at your outback's rear differential bushings and tell me if they look like the first picture in that thread. I had started a thread a while ago asking the same question and it ended up being these bushings. A few days ago I replaced them with solid poly bushings and holy ****, I love my car now.



These are the bushings I put in, they are SuperPro.
I see the bushings arrived OK - how bad was the job?
 

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2000 Outback 5MT
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425 Posts
Thanks again SusieMK! I meant to send you a message letting you know I got them. It went swimmingly actually. I left the cross member in and just drilled the old bushings out. Then I used a pair of vise grip pliers to pull them out completely. A rounded file cleaned out the old rubber really well. Then I just greased up everything I could touch.

Used a jack to level/support the diff and then lined up the bushings. I couldn't push them in by hand but I used a massive pair of channel locks that we have that open to about 6 inches or more and just used those to shove the bushings in. Overall took less than two hours.

Fantastically easy. Will be doing it again soon for my brother's car.
 

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2000 Outback 5MT
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425 Posts
How difficult did you find that job to be? My rear diff bushings are shot; I've been thinking about putting bushing inserts in versus replacing them.
If they're already shot it might be worth replacing. In my case, the upgraded bushings used the stock "metal ring" thing that's in there. Some require you drop the cross member to have the old ring/bushing pressed out.
 

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DIY-Turbo 2.2l OBS 12.89s 1/4mile @ 106.17MPH
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399 Posts
Thanks again SusieMK! I meant to send you a message letting you know I got them. It went swimmingly actually. I left the cross member in and just drilled the old bushings out. Then I used a pair of vise grip pliers to pull them out completely. A rounded file cleaned out the old rubber really well. Then I just greased up everything I could touch.

Used a jack to level/support the diff and then lined up the bushings. I couldn't push them in by hand but I used a massive pair of channel locks that we have that open to about 6 inches or more and just used those to shove the bushings in. Overall took less than two hours.

Fantastically easy. Will be doing it again soon for my brother's car.
You should put your symtoms / the bushing install into a new thread under "Suspension", "DIY", or "Performance mods" I bet there are many folks that would like to see whats involved in swapping these.

I never thought of drilling the old bushings out (I've always seen them pressed or burned out) - great idea!
 

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06 Outback 2.5i, 05 Outback Limited
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868 Posts
You should put your symtoms / the bushing install into a new thread under "Suspension", "DIY", or "Performance mods" I bet there are many folks that would like to see whats involved in swapping these.

I never thought of drilling the old bushings out (I've always seen them pressed or burned out) - great idea!
Second'd -- would love to know more about this method, and the bushing you used.
 

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2011 Outback Prm AWP 6MT
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Alright, I finally got a picture of those bushings today. I'm not sure what to make of it but I presume it's not the best.



 

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2000 Outback 5MT
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425 Posts
Yeah, those actually don't look terrible. If you can though, see if the diff moves up and down when in a gear (motor off) and you push the car forward and backwards. The car should roll a little bit.
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,436 Posts
Check to see if your diff does this. Mine ripped on the edges.


I fixed it with 3M Window Weld. Still holding strong.

It could also be a weak transmission mount. You would be surprised at the difference in cruising and shifting in a manual trans between an old worn out trans mount that appears good in looks and a new one. I don't have video of the ripped trans mount from my car. I only thought of recording the diff. It was funnier.
 

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2011 Outback Prm AWP 6MT
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Alright thanks guys, I'll do a bit more investigation based on your suggestions and report back my findings.
 

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2002 outback ej25 manual trans
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52 Posts
check your transmisson mount. this is a common problem and is easily replaced.
 

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Registered
06 Outback 2.5i, 05 Outback Limited
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868 Posts
check your transmisson mount. this is a common problem and is easily replaced.
Agreed -- replacing mine with a Group-N mount made a HUGE difference. Still need to address the diff bushings, but I'm leaning towards the 3M Window Weld method because of how easy it is compared to replacing the bushings.

There are also poly bushings available to replace the stock transmission crossmember-to-body mounts. I've heard they also make a large difference. I haven't replaced mine yet, but they're on the list...

Cardoc - where were you able to find the Window Weld? 3M lists a few resellers in my area but none of them actually carry it.
 

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2011 Outback Prm AWP 6MT
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Hmm okay, does anybody know roughly the labor time it would take to replace the transmission mount in question? Btw, this jerkiness really makes me hate this transmission and subsequently the car. To the point now where I really wish I had the 4EAT... it really bothers me.
 
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