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OK, I get the explanation, but the maintenance records would include miles and sale date. So the car could sit on the lot without an oil change and without consequence for future maintenance records.
Without warranty consequence yes.

If it were so important for the oil to be changed for actual mechanical reasons every six months then it wouldn't matter what the sale date was. So it is pretty much just legalese.
 

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2018 OB 2.5 Ltd, No Eyesight, No Navigation
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But it would be interesting to see how long a regular car engine could go before an oil sample showed it was time to change it.

Personally I am just going to keep changing the oil in my Outback every six months.
Me too, every 6 months.

The oil sample would be interesting for the individual, but it would not be useful for others and possibly misleading. There are so many environment factors that would go into sitting oil lasting long or going bad early (temperature, moisture level in air, cleanliness of air, car in garage or not, etc.). The results would be useful only to somebody with a same car, same oil, same environmental conditions, same miles on oil, same driving habits, etc.
 

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Me too, every 6 months.

The oil sample would be interesting for the individual, but it would not be useful for others and possibly misleading. There are so many environment factors that would go into sitting oil lasting long or going bad early (temperature, moisture level in air, cleanliness of air, car in garage or not, etc.). The results would be useful only to somebody with a same car, same oil, same environmental conditions, same miles on oil, same driving habits, etc.
Yeah, I can't think of any reason why someone would try to apply someone else's oil sample results to their own vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Time kills everything, do your changes based on time in this environment, so 6 months. I could argue if you are running synthetic you could go 1 year, i would never go longer then that..

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Thanks. I do run synthetic. But I chose to do the service. They sent a flatbed, picked up the care and returned it he same day.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
179 miles in 10 months, if they were ~5 mile trips once a week, I would change it every 6 months. Your oil is not getting hot enough to purge contaminants like water and fuel. If they were 18 mile trips once a month it wouldn't be as bad but I'd still change it at least once a year.

My nephew used to drive <5 miles once a week so I told him to get an electric car so he doesn't have to deal with changing oil and other maintenance for a car that's barely driven. You can't neglect these things and short trips are close to worst case scenario on an internal combustion vehicle. It's like using the toilet and not flushing it.
👍
 

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Discussion Starter #47
If you’re no longer under warranty and not driving much, synthetic oil needs to be changed annually. You can do it yourself for $20-$25 including filter. You should also drive your car once a week to bring the oil up to temperature and burn-off any moisture/condensation in the engine.
Thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
When my wife's 6 month came due, we had put 303 miles on it. The service manager declared it a record.
He also said all those cold engine trips more than justified the 6 month oil changes.
Besides, some old timers believe in doing the first oil change at 100 miles to flush out the break-in byproducts.
My 12 month was only another 351 miles.

Congratulations on breaking my record !!! 😁

Saturday, I will make a 400 mile round trip to Dallas.
I'm sure my Subi will appreciate getting a chance to stretch. 😁
I double checked the mile today it was actually 1258 miles in 10 months. 🤦🏻‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Thank you all for your input on this. I think the consensus is with the service manager: every six months even with very low mileage.
 

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Thank you all for your input on this. I think the consensus is with the service manager: every six months even with very low mileage.
Consensus, shemensus.
That's NONSENSE!
You are wasting money, wasting oil. Some might say destroying the environment. even!
Only intellectuals could make this into a BIG DEAL. My sensibilities are deeply OFFENDED!
Mileage matters, the quality of the engine, ABUSE by a driver, climate, age of the vehicle(total miles), these are the dominant factors.

OK, I'm triggered to the point I had to find these testing devices.
For less than the price of a single oil change YOU can become the neighborhood OIL WHISPERER!


 

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Cheap oil changed frequently beats boutique oil with extended drains. Changing the oil twice a year is not insanely cost prohibitive and I don't think there needs to be drama over this.
.True. Anybody driving a newer car and worrying that two oil changes per year is too costly is probably taking on too much by owning a car.
 

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Cheap oil changed frequently beats boutique oil with extended drains. Changing the oil twice a year is not insanely cost prohibitive and I don't think there needs to be drama over this.
People pay big bucks for drama, and it's always free in Forums.

I certainly DO NOT recommend cheap oil. I'm too much of a "car guy" to go that route.
But Motul, Royal Purple, Amsoil, boutique oils as you put it, may be extreme for Subarus I could probably make an argument that synthetics may be money wasted since these aren't boutique vehicles.

I just sprung for this device, should be here in a month or less. I'll be the OIL GURU.

 

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2020 Onyx
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Looking forward to your results!

Thanks for prompting me to add: when I say cheap oil I mean good cheap oil that meets specifications, not weird convenience store off-brands. Current specifications of SP/GF-6 means it's fresh stock, SN/GF-5 is old stock.

To me cheap oil means: Full-synthetic name brands that go on sale (Mobil-1, Valvoline/Napa, Castrol, Quaker State, Pennzoil) or Warren Distribution house brands like Walmart SuperTech, Amazon Basics, Costco/Kirkland.

I get 10 quarts (2 oil changes) for less than $30.00 at Costco.
 

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People pay big bucks for drama, and it's always free in Forums.

I certainly DO NOT recommend cheap oil. I'm too much of a "car guy" to go that route.
But Motul, Royal Purple, Amsoil, boutique oils as you put it, may be extreme for Subarus I could probably make an argument that synthetics may be money wasted since these aren't boutique vehicles.

I just sprung for this device, should be here in a month or less. I'll be the OIL GURU.

Why did you not get this device that you posted (which has more precision)?

 

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Why did you not get this device that you posted (which has more precision)?

I didn't like the PROBE aspect, for one. The device does have a digital readout as opposed to 10 led lights on the one I purchased, but that probe transmitting data thru a plastic rod seems to me to be less accurate in MY MIND.

These might be a gimmick, who knows? I figured try the $30 unit, see if it works. The $45 unit(?) maybe someone else will buy that one and we'll compare notes.

I think it's all relative readings, not a full analysis of your oil, just a measurement of certain parameters. I'm not expecting much to be honest. It might turn out to be a useful diagnostic tool, and the best $30 i ever spent.
 

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2020 Onyx
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The device you purchased is probably exactly the same as the Lubricheck and OTO300 and this post says you need to clean then sensor very well for accuracy:


Seems like it does work but you may need to do multiple samples of the same oil to make sure you get a consistent reading.

Lubricheck says (from their obsolete Amazon listing):

The Lubricheck uses a unique capacitive/resistive sensor to measure the levels of acid (related to TBN) and contamination from soot, dust, dirt, wear metals, fuel, water or antifreeze. Using the Lubricheck, many customers have discovered leaks in their cooling systems long before any permanent damage to their engine. By confidently rejecting the outdated, 60 year old advice to change oil every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, most users can easily cut motor oil use by over 50%. Designed and assembled in the USA. Patent pending. *Some specialty or extended use oils with high levels of additives, or with metals such as zinc or moly, may give falsely negative results. Examples include Amsoil Signature series, Redline, and non API Royal Purple oils.
Will be very interested in seeing your results with the device.
 

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The device you purchased is probably exactly the same as the Lubricheck and OTO300 and this post says you need to clean then sensor very well for accuracy:


Seems like it does work but you may need to do multiple samples of the same oil to make sure you get a consistent reading.

Lubricheck says (from their obsolete Amazon listing):



Will be very interested in seeing your results with the device.
To be perfectly honest, I don't really need this. It's just an interesting toy to back up my BS.

I have enough experience "checking oil", that I can confidently determine oil quality by touch, visual inspection, and odor.
A REAL expert might even taste it?

Thank you SilverOnyx for the research. I saw that the "Lubricheck" product was out of stock with no expected availability so I went with this $30 unit which hopefully works as well as the others on the market. The OTO300 appears to be the same unit except with the "OTO300" inscribed on the case.
 
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