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Hello everyone. I run mobil 1 extended performance w/ mobil 1 extended performance filter in my 04 H63.0. Its our first winter in ND and I'm thinking down the road. I am confident with that combo both summer and winter in my car. My real concern however, is my GF's 92 legacy 2.2 with 220K. I have never ran full synthetic in it. Right now i have 10w-30 (for summer) valvoline maxlife. Which is a blend i guess. apparently this ole subby can leak a little oil out the valve covers. I am hesitant to put full syn in a vehicle that already leaks/uses a little oil, but want to give the car a break in -30F start ups? Stick with the Maxlife blend? I run a Puralator PureOne filter in hers. Thoughts? THANKS!!
 

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yeah was thinking about it but haven't done much research. We dont use them in NW MT, so was hoping I could get around it (colder her tho). Asked locals here and some do some dont.
 

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my friend at work was an 'airforce brat' and lived in ND for a while.

He said one year the cold was so intense the tires cracked on his dad's car.

you're wise to think about this stuff and get ahead of the problem.
 

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thanks texan. thats the plan. Not looking forward to that cold. hopefully get a desk job by then. Tooslick, you think 0w-30 is wise even tho oil cap on 3.0 suggests 5w-30?
 

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Check your owner's manual. There is probably a chart showing recommended oil viscosity vs ambient temperature. They recommend different weights in the very cold regions.
 

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Tooslick, you think 0w-30 is wise even tho oil cap on 3.0 suggests 5w-30?
A 0W-30 and 5W-30 will both be a 30 grade when hot. The 0W will give you easier winter cold starts and will usually be thinner in very cold cranking situations. If you have leakage around the valve covers, maybe have the gaskets replaced. You could try MaxLife 5W-30, but a 0W-30 will start more easily in severe cold. There aren't any High Mileage 0W-30's but Mobil1 does have a 5W-30 Full Synthetic. A thin 0W-30 will have better cold cranking performance though.

-Dennis
 

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The nearest subaru dealer in Bismarck. I've heard we need to replace the gaskets then, the valve covers. The car just isnt worth enough to do any major repairs. just gonna keep adding a little oil.
 

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You can use a 0w-30 synthetic in place of a 5w-30 or 10w-30 petroleum oil. It will allow the engine to start easier in very cold weather, be more responsive during the warm up phase and consume 2%-3% less fuel. There is no downside provided the engine is mechanically sound. I've been running 0w-30 synthetics in a variety of applications (including a Audi turbo), since Amsoil came out with theirs in 1995.

You can basically use the Mobil 1, 0w-30/5w-30/10w-30 grades interchangeably. Same for their 0w-20 and 5w-20....

TS
 

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I also have a 3.0 H6 and a 2.2 Legacy with ~226k on the clock. I however live in a very mild climate...65 and sunny 365 days a year. That being said I really like talking about oil.

For the money, Mobil 1 EP is some of the best stuff on the market, especially when you consider that you can get 5 quarts at walmart for $27. I run this in the H6.

I run Mobil Super 5000 5w30 in the 2.2. That motor could run on water and it wouldn't quit in my climate.

In your climate however you want to pay attention to the pour point spec for the oil. (All of these values below are negative degrees)

Mobil1 0w30 -58 degrees F
Mobil1 EP 5w30 -40 degrees F
Mobil Super 5000 5w30 -32 degrees F

The 0w30 performs the best, as expected, but the 5w30 Mobil 1 EP and Super 5000 are pretty **** good as well. Since you already run EP in the one car, I would keep things simple and run EP in both. EP is also a much better oil than the other two. EP also will handle the extreme temperature changes better, although probably not much better than the 0w30.
 

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Also, the pour point of max life is -43.6 F for both 5w30 and 10w30.

If you honestly have -30 degree days then I might consider switching both cars to 0w30, but 5w30 EP should be fine as well.
 
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