[canubaru]

this is not an uncommon problem. usually caused by not torquing the crank bolt to 137 ft. lbs. be ware. some manuals mis-quote this spec.

replace the crank sprocket, pulley, key and maybe the bolt.
you do not have to do anything to the crank it self.

i would also also replace any and all parts related to the timing belt,
belt, all idlers, water pump, and seals. once done you will not have to deal with the crank bolt for 60k - 100k miles.

install the new parts and line up the new crank sprocket. the damage to the crank will let the sprocket ''slop'' in the counter clockwise direction, not the clockwise direction. if you install everything with the correct alignment and torque it to spec, you should be good to go.

the key does not hold the sprocket in place. if it did you would not have this issue. the key only aligns the sprocket while you tighten the bolt. thge bolt dose all the actual ''holding''.

good luck.

note: not the arrows, never the arrows.

 

[canubaru]

hey, if you have a friend with a welder and he can fix the crank without screwing it up, go for it. but i would not recommend welding the sprocket to the crank, not that you said you would.

good decision on the timing belt parts. 10k is too early to replace them. but if there is anything you did not replace before, do it now.


you have what is generally referred to as a ''bullet proof'' non-interference engine. 218k is nothing for this engine. it will go 300k easy. just keep oil in it.

remember the commercials for the outback with ''crocodile dundee'' in the austrailian outback? well this is the engine that should have been in that car. it is easy to work on, non-interference, and it will take a lot of abuse and keep running. it has HLAs, hydraulic lash adjusters so no valve adjustments and if the oil gets really low it will let you know when they start to clatter. add oil and go again.

good luck with the fix.

let us know how it turns out.