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Discussion Starter #1
So here we go...any help or suggestions would've greatly appreciated.
So I bought 96 legacy outback...cool.
Whoops...head gasket is gone...no sweat...dude gave me the "Cars" warranty and it only took him 3 months to do the **** gaskets...that's another story.

The problem now is its leaking all over the place. Valve cover gaskets...most likely the cam seals...oil pump seal...I know the knuckle head just slapped it back together without bothering to deal with any of that...
I'm just going to buy the complete gasket set for $140 and pull the sucker out and do it all. Cam seal...crank seal..oil pump...since the head gaskets come with it I'll probably just do that as well. After this I don't trust them either.

I guess what I'm looking for is any tricks or things I should know when pulling this sucker out. I'll probably do the bearings while I have it out but can't afford the piston and ring set. All this is on a limited budget and limited time frame. I got 10 days to do it and a friend is loaning me the hoist and engine stand...lucky me. Any ideas? I know the crank Lully is a beast to get off and I'll probably rent the thing to keep the cams together while doing it and replace the timing belt just because I'm going that far anyways.
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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I'd do the rings, leave the bearings alone. I have been inside several of these engines and I have seldom ever found the bearings to have excessive wear as long as its never been run out of oil. I agree on the headgaskets, but beware of cheap Valve cover or universal V/C gaskets, this maybe the cause of your current leak (economy Valve Cover gaskets). I personally prefer the Fel pro set. I have had exceptional luck with these. The cams are marked side to side, intake and exhaust no special marks needed. I would get a sharpie and mark the order of the Lash Adjusters, get them back in their original bores. Permatex Grey sealant is a great way to seal around the rear of the cylinder heads 1/2 moon seals as well as around the cam stands on the front of the cylinder heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I forgot to add its got 165,000 on it.
I got the felpro set and put them on but I didn't get the sharp corners at the front sealed good so it's still leaking there....I'll just use them on this project. They've only been on there a week so that should be fine and make sure to use enough sealant there this time.

Are you taking about the half moons that you see when you have the valve covers off? I will definitely have some of that on hand while doing this to get those right. How exactly are you supposed to do that? Take them out and put new ones in? Or just make sure to put some sealant on there where it contacts the gasket.
As far as the bearings go it has a slight knock and I assumed that was a rod bearing...I'm going to check them out while I have it open and see how they look.
Any other tips are greatly appreciated.
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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This engine has an inherent "knock" due to the size of the pistons and their reciprocating mass. If you are going in as far as the bearings, I'd do the piston rings as well, call it inexpensive insurance. You really do not need to replace the pistons unless they are no longer round. If you do as deep as your considering, Clean is the rule. As far as the 1/2 moon removal I have had good luck with a mallet tap and a wood dowel. You can break them out, but that ads another expense to your costs, with a little care they can be re-used. Make sure to apply Grey sealant under the 1/2 moon(s) during assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I really appreciate the advice man...I am not a novice when it comes to mechanics but I have never really worked on one of these suckers before...
Do I need to take the moons out? The one I saw looked fine to me and showed no signs of leaking...what the **** are those there for anyway? Pressure blow out safety? Like a freeze plug? I think they come with the set I am getting but ill have to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is the set I am looking at. I can't really afford anything more expensive. If I don't do the bearings I can afford the rings I hope. Might as well seeing as I'll have the heads and the pan off...hopefully I can get and rocker/valve settings back to normal after all this and not cause another problem.
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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The 1/2 moons are actually the the hole in the back of the head for when they line bore for the Camshafts. if you looked from the front thru the caps you would see that they all line up wth that hole or 1/2 hole as it were. Sounds like you have a solid grasp on the task at hand, so i wish you luck and godspeed at being back in the saddle. When you go to order bearings the Id is the same across the line, but BEWARE the Thrust bearings are different in width, before you get bearings you'll need to know if yours is thrust on journal #3 or #5
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I won't be ordering the bearings till I open it up and decide if it needs them. And you never know if they're over sized due to the crank being turned or something...probably not but you never know. Thanks for the tip on the thrust bearings...that's the kind of stuff I am liking for. Anything weird coming up at the back of the motor? Bell housing to block....crank shaft to flywheel? Do you have to pop the crank out to chance the rear main?
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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you have to remove the pistons to split the case. If you do not intened to replace the rings once you have removed the wrist pins you can use the rods to push the pistons to TDC. On the fropnt of the block there are 2 hex plugs to access the clips holding the wrist pins. On the rear you have to remove a small cover on the LT side (2 Phillips) On the Rt side you need to remove the breather separator plate and then there is another Hex plug (14mm hex) I remove the clips with a long needle nose, be careful not to lose them. If the engine was maintained well the pins should pull out by inserting the long nose plier in and opening the plier to apply pressure then pull. If there is a good deal of Varnish you may need a small hook on a 1lb slide hammer to extract the pins. Subaru makes a special tool for this job, but unless you intend on going into the buisness of overhauling alot of these engines that tool as most Subaru Special tools are spendy $$$$
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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the rear main seal can be pulled without removing the crankshaft, If your splitting the case anyway I'd wait until you've split the case and just pull it off the crank. As far as the case itself you will need a 12pt 12mm deep socket to get the main bearing bolts. 6 bolts are inside the water jacket and have a sealing washer on them, the other 4 are not in the water jacket and have a flat washer. Don't mix them up and be sure to replace the sealing washers, for the Jacketed bolts. (hopefully included in your kit)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Anybody have any thoughts on the quality of the Japan engines gasket set I am about to order? Probably won't change my mind as its all I can afford right now but any insight would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Split the case? Ok...now I'm lost...I need to grab the book this week and go over everything. This thing is a little different than what I'm used to. You can just pull the pistons out and compress the rings to pop them back? I had no idea the bearings were some crazy deal either. I guess I'll just leave that stuff alone and stick with the gaskets. Hopefully that will help me get what I need out of this car.
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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Trust me unless this was completely abused you will be amazed that the cyl's will still have a very good "crosshatch". Like I indicated before the non turbo engines are very solid, even the Turbo engines are remarkably solid with reasonable care. As far as the Gasket set, from the picture in the link, it looks like a very solid set. Again good luck, I'll check back now and then to see how your progressing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the advice man...I really appreciate it. I am still nervous about getting everything back the right way after taking the heads off but I guess if I follow the book I shouldn't have any problem...I hope.
 
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