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96 Outback 2.5 to 2.2 swap?

5845 Views 5 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  NHEBAYER
I'm sure its been covered... I have done some searches... I have limited time.

First I will say I am not a Subaru Guy.... I used to turn wrenches for a living and still do alot of work.

A good friend has a 96 Outback with the crappy 2.5 Engine... 170K and bad head gaskets.... Nothing new there right? LOL

another friend has a wrecked 96 Subie sedan... with a great running 2.2 engine. I can get the whole car cheap.... $200.00 for any parts I need. has 160K well maintained & Babied.

Both cars are Auto trans... both have A/C.... Under the hood they look the same... except the 2.5 looks wider.

Its my understanding that I can put the 2.2 in place of the 2.5... is that correct?

What is involved in this change over? Is there a thread that you can direct me to? I know its been done... I just need more info.

I'm sorry if this has been asked a 1000 times before... Flame me if you must... But I will still need the info when you are done.

Thank you for the help.
Reaney in NH
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· Registered
01 Outback H6 VDC, 97 GT wgn w/ ej22, 98 OBW w/ej22
1,390 Posts
the 96 2.2L (ej22) engine from an auto trans car is a swap for the 96 - 99 ej25 engine.(MOST auto trans ej22s 95 - 98 have the needed EGR, but double check.)

you will NEED the exhaust y-pipe, manifold from the ej22 car, the exhaust ports on the heads are different.

and if you you want it to look factory stock, get the power steering lines as well. the lines in the ej25 car will work, but the support barckets will not mate with the heads. most folks just live with the ej25 lines. but if you have the ej22s to use, why not.

if an auto trans car, use the flex plate that came with the car. the one on the ej22 will not fit.

do not disconnect the coolant lines to the AC compressor, unbolt the compressor bracket and flop it out og the way towards the battery during the R & R. i leave it hanging in place when not actually
''pulling'' or ''installing''. less wear on the lines.

use the AC bracket off of the ej25. alternator as well.

removing the axles off of the trans gives more room for the lower trans nuts.

if you remove the intake manifold before you pull the engine you will have no trouble removing the torque converter bolts. it can be done with the manifold in place, i have done it both ways, but it is much easier with the manifold gone. of course you lose a lift point. i have even put the intake back in place to lift the engine.

an old seat belt makes a great lifting strap.

i would replace the oil separator plate on the rear of the ej22 engine block, behind the flex plate, before you install the engine. the plate and new bolts are about $35 from the dealer. the factory plate is plastic and they leak like a sieve.

do not touch the rear main seal unless it is LEAKING. and i don't mean a little seepage. i mean dripping. they usually last the life of the car unless some one replaces it incorrectly.

i would replace all the front seals, cam, crank, oil pump o-ring, and cam cap o-rings. plus ALL the timing components.(theimportexperts on ebay, belt, pulleys and water pump, ~$135 shipped. seals from the dealer, wholesale ~$35, retail ~$40.)

and the HLAs, hydraulic lash adjusters will likely make a lot of noise at start up if it has been sitting very long, they need to be pumped up with oil. let it idle, it will quiet down in time. some say take it for spirited drive.

have fun.
other info on swapping an ej22 into an ej25 car, 96 - 99. this so you can be an expert.
any ej22 will swap - 95 - 98.
90 - 94 will also swap but they are obd1 and you would need an ej22 obd2 intake manifold.

ej22 preferred engines for a swap.

1/ 95 w/ EGR (usually from an auto trans car) direct swap, use the flex plate that came with your car. non-interference.

2/ 96 - 98 w/ EGR (usually from an auto trans car) you will need the exhaust manifold y-pipe, the exhaust ports on the heads changes.

NOTE: 95 - 96 are noninterference engines. and they have HLAs, if you pull a valve cover they have NO valve adjustment screws /lock nuts.

97 - 98 are interference engines. they have screw and lock nut valve adjustments.

your car has EGR attached to the intake manifold on the driver side near the brake cylinder with a small pipe dropping down to the rear of the driver head. hard to see with the engine on the car. with out his you will have a CEL that you can not get rid of.

90 - 94 ej22s do not have EGR, none of them.

do an advanced search for more info, ''ej25 swap''. lots of info and tips on the swap.

interference is not a big deal if you replace all of the toming parts, belt, pulleys, water pump at install.the old style tensioner will probably still be good. they rarely fail. but the pulley should be replaced.

· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Job is done... I wanted to report how it went.. Just in case someone else needs the info in the future.

The 96 2.2 Liter was a complete plug and play.. Differences were very minor.

I left PS on the car... just unbolted it from the motor and tipped it out of the way. It bolted right up... Worked fine. The other minor issue is the lines are routed different and I could not bolt them into the brackets... I'm not going to worry about it. But, if someone was concerned... they could keep the Lines and pump from the 2.2L eng and it would be perfect.

Car has an AUTO trans... The 2.5L engine has a larger Flex plate... I installed the 2.5 Flex onto the 2.2L engine and everything worked perfect.

This was the Easiest Swap conversion I have ever done. Everything else Plugged in... bolted up.... Car runs perfect with the 2.5 ECM....

Thanks to all that took the time to answer my questions.
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