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Discussion Starter #1
I know what everyone gonna say regarding my 2.5l, head gaskets. Ive done my research and ive been up and down these forums for weeks while working on the car.

Note: I live in Canada and its now -25 outside on an average day and when I refer to driver side or passenger side, driver being on the left.

Car has 369xxxkm but has had waterpump done, gaskets at least once already, all belts, OEM thermostat, OEM radiator, 4 different aftermarket rad caps rated at 13lbs.

To be able to continue driving to work I had to remove the thermostat all together, little to no heat but its the price I pay to get to work. While idling it gets to normal operating temperature, in stop-go traffic it overheats but on the hwy its generally below 1/3 the temp gauge if not glued to the bottom.

When it overheats it fills my reservoir tank and doesn't suck the coolant back into the rad unless you turn the car off and let sit for awhile. theres no leaks anywhere and ive tested for exhaust gasses in the coolant and came out fine all 3 times. I burped out the system a few times, seems like theres always air in the cooling system tho.

Both top and bottom hoses of the rad are at a warm temp and have pressure and both driver and passenger side hoses for the heater core are warm.

Im stumped :confused:
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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my 1st check at this point would be the radiator when warmed up, for cold spots, another check would be when it begins to overheat move the heat lever to full hot and blower to high. See if there is any effect on the temp. If it drops then its is more likely the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ill look into the cold spots. The blower fans work fine when at operating tempurture. So far it seems like bad circulation, clogged somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
flushed the raditor and refilled the system and burped it. seesm to be alot better but still overheating in the city, heat while running in normal temp, but when it gets cold or halfway point to overheating i get cold air. kinda convinced its the heater core so ill have to try to bypass it.

is that safe? anything i should need to do or know before trying this? i guess i just gotta connect the driver-passenger hoses that normaly connect to the heatercore.
 

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2001 outback 2.5 i
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Heater Core

The flow through the Heater core controls the opening of the thermostat so as you have no thermostat it cannot now be the heater core that is the problem
It may have started the problem (which sounds awfully like a HGfailure ) Good luck Oz
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i have used a gasket sealer, made no difference in anything, and i have put back the the thermostat before doing the flush on the rad.

overheating is not random, no bubbles, no sign of it being a headgasket other then overheating itself. no exhaust gasses in coolant.

most of the time, no heat. either air is getting sucked in from somewhere or the heater core isnt giving a proper flow.

those are my two best guesses..
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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i have used a gasket sealer, made no difference in anything, and i have put back the the thermostat before doing the flush on the rad.
What do you mean by gasket sealer? On what? My question was concerning usage of a coolant sealer like Barrs Leak. These "sealers" clog up the coolant system and damage water pumps and thermostats.

You most likely need a radiator and possibly another thermostat as the one you have may not be functioning proper.

While I'm thinking about it, a little history on stop leak. When people started driving cross country and for a hole in the radiator or what not that was not a hose, and they were out 100s of miles from being able to get it repaired, they would use a paste made of sand and water to fill the hole to help the system hold water long enough to get to where it could be repaired. Some idiot some years later decided to mass produce the paste and market it as a fix all for coolant leaks. The difference is that the travelers repaired the problem utilizing the sand paste as a temporary fix. Now, people think its a one time thing that solves their problems on a long term on the cheap. It's still a temporary measure if used and the car needs proper repair and removal of the paste as soon as possible.
 

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2001 outback 2.5 i
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History

Could you put us up to date with how and when the problem started .For instance was some work done on it just before it started playing up
I am wondering i,in a climate like yours would it be possible to run with a slipping water pump or one with vanes clogged up .The constant air points to HG and exhaust gas checks don't always work 2things that it is not are the heater core and the thermostat OZ
 
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