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Premium Member
2005 Mazda 6 && 2007 Outback 3.0 LLBean, WGO
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371 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is a work-in-progress mod for my 1999 SUS, which can hopefully be generalized for other BD/BG models (with factory keyless entry (not alarm).
I've decided to finally tackle this peeve of mine. Compared to the late models, I feel that the horn/no horn option allowed by the factory module are useless. Either you don't get a confirmation sound until you're standing close enough to use the key anyway, or the horn sounds and scares the bejeebers out of neighbors, passengers, or the parents when you're trying to sneak in late at night :rolleyes:
The basic plan is simple - from a FSM wiring diagram, I think I've found the wire out of the keyless entry unit which goes to the horn relay. Assuming it transmits a 12V signal, I'll first just replace the leads to that with those from one of these buzzers from Radio Shack . I picked up the 273-0060, -0066, and -075 to see what produces the best sound. I'll upload pics / video tomorrow or the day after, will start the work then.
 

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Premium Member
2005 Mazda 6 && 2007 Outback 3.0 LLBean, WGO
Joined
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371 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Updated! I wasn't intending to have to wait this long to post more, but working at a summer camp plus a dead computer left me with time to just make this demo of the buzzer sounds.
Testing this way says that the buzzer will only be audible if it is located outside the passenger compartment, i.e. under the hood. Any suggestions where to thread wires through from the keyless unit/.

Buzzer test video HERE
 

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Premium Member
2005 Mazda 6 && 2007 Outback 3.0 LLBean, WGO
Joined
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371 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
After weeks of suspense...

It's done! Sorry I took so long to sit my butt down and write this up.

I've got a relay set under my dash such that when I would have originally heard the horn sound for keyless [un]lock, now I hear a buzzer I've placed under my hood and the parking lights flash.

Current problems - the buzzer is too quiet except from the front, and the relay doesn't hold long enough to reliably see the lights. Hoping LEDs will solve the latter; haven't yet gone to look at louder buzzers for the former.

I'll try to write a step-by-step, but I literally did this a month ago, and may have forgotten something. Wiring diagrams and a couple under-dash pics follow!

Step 0: (materials)
- one 4-pin relay (I used a spare for the fogs or defrost)
- 3-4 feet of mid-gauge wire, with sockets if available (see below)
- 5-10 feet of four-strand phone cord
- desired piezoelectric buzzer compatible with 12V power
- 4 "vampire" or "crossover" clips
Also:
- soldering tools, wire strippers/cutters, a couple types of pliers
- electrical tape, heat-shrink tubing, masking tape (to label wires and hold things in place temporarily)

Step 1:
Get out the diagrams, get yourself under the dashboard, and find and label the horn relay wires, parking light wires, and keyless entry-to-horn wire. Trust me, you'll thank yourself for digging for them later when your new harness just plugs right in! Also try to pick out where you'll run wire through the firewall. I used the rubber gasket that blocks off (I think) where the clutch control would have passed - MTs may need a different solution.

  • The horn relay (you have to dig for this, it's mounted on the left side wall, almost out of sight): It's on a short rail that you need to slip it up and off from. The two wires tagged here are the pwoer and ground-to-body; you only need the power one for the project.


  • The parking lights are in a harness with joined blue and black connectors, emerging alongside the steering column. I flagged both sides of this switch.


  • There is only one wire out of the keyless entry module, which would ground out the horn. This gets CUT (the only cut wire already on the car); tape off the to-the-horn end, and leave yourself a couple of inches' pigtail.



Step 2:
Now we'll start assembly. I had some middle-gauge wire, complete with plugs already on the end to clip right to the relay. To the buzzer, I just double-wired two strands from the phone cord to each terminal - use whatever substitute you wish.

I soldered the buzzer across opposite sides of the relay, right to the connectors on the end, and then just plugged the joined wires right up - all four stay very well with no adhesive assistance. Give yourself at least 8 inches, more is fine, on each side of the relay. I tried to make mine cleaner to only have excess on one side, but reaching the short tails to the parking lights was quite a pain. If you don't have a large opening to the engine, don't solder the buzzer on yet, just attach those wires to the relay and you'll be able to feed them through a much smaller hole.
My completed "parasite" harness:


Step 3:
Now, go to mount this in your car! Make sure you've labelled what wires need to go where; I can't tell you off the top of my head what side of the relay is switched vs coil, but grab an ohmmeter and find out yourself! I think the vampire clips are pretty self-explanatory, but if you're puzzled, read on. They are a plastic socket with grooves for two wires - one whole, one terminating inside the clip. When you place them inside, close it, and crimp the "teeth" through they'll bite through insulation and make contact with the conductors for both wires. Make sure you get ones that match your wire gauge!
I zip-tied my relay to something under the dash, and it's stayed just fine for a month. If anyone out there knows enough wizardry to mount it in one of the empty factory relay slots, speak up! Otherwise, just clip it up and mount it, run your buzzer cable, and strap that to something cool and dry in the engine bay.

My wiring diagram (I can link to the FSM wiring pages if anyone wants to see where this actually fits in...):


Feedback? Try it! Thanks for patience!
 
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