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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
My 99 OB Ltd w/85k seems to have excessive road noise from the drivers side tire. I had suspected my tires, (original Michelin's w/85k). I just had the tires replaced with Michelin Weatherwise from Sears and the noise is still there. They also did an alignment.
The noise does get louder/softer with speed. There is no grinding or "feeling" in the wheel related to the noise, just loud noise in the cabin.
Could this be due to CV joints? If so, how could I verify the problem?
Thanks,
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Follow up - more info

I forgot to mention that I checked the following and they are ok:
-Front Differential fluid level
-free play in wheels up/down motion
-no noises when rotating wheels by hand with car in Neutral

I did notice though that the drivers side wheel seems to have slightly more resistance to turning than the passenger side wheel.
 

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Re: Follow up - more info

BobD said:
...-no noises when rotating wheels by hand with car in Neutral

I did notice though that the drivers side wheel seems to have slightly more resistance to turning than the passenger side wheel.
I don't have the answer to your question...but I do have advice: stop rotating one-tire at a time.
Someone here told me sometime back in February that it is bad to not have all 4 wheels spinning together at the same time (aside from that which the AWD system does on it's own). Something about it being bad for your differentials. I assume it's based on the same principle as the rule about mandatory towing with all 4 wheels off the ground.
This might not be a side to side issue as much as it is a front to rear issue. I'm sure someone else will clear this up, I probably just made you more confused anyway. Doh!

(BTW...I was having fun in snow by using my e-brake, which I didn't realize only applies braking to one set of wheels, leaving the other two to spin independently...)
 

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you one sick puppy Greenoid, sounds like fun, but limit how much you do it as it creates exactly the same wear on center viscous coupling as towing with 2 wheels off ground. but it's not sustained, so shouldn't be a probelm. gotta try that, used to do it on FWD Slaabs trying to play John Buffum

Bob, test for bad CVS is to find huge deserted parking lot, stop car with wheel cranked all the way to one side, then accelerate fairly hard...ie, do donuts but not spinning tires. this puts CV at max angular deflection through which it's transmitting power, with max loading, ie worst case scenario for them. if you hear a sound like someone cracking their knuckles, you almost certainly have one or more bad CVs. then try the other direction. this doesn't absolutely eliminate possibility, but if they flunk this test, they are definitely bad. it's possbile for an inner CV to be bad and not make much noise, but any competent driveline guy shd be able to check them for slop.
 

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There shouldn't be any significant wear/problems by just spinning the wheels by hand one at a time. No worries there.

It sounds like either one of your brake pads is dragging, or you've got the first stages of a wheel bearing going bad. You can try to remove the caliper/pad assembly, and see if that solves the problem. If it does, your caliper will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

If that one wheel is STILL hard to turn, you'll have to replace the bearings on that wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies.
I had tried the tight turning with no excessive noises in either direction. (Haven't tried the braking trick yet).
I don't see how any damage can be done to the tranny with the car in Neutral and spinning the tires by hand. But then again, I can't figure out what's wrong right now!!

I will check the brakes/bearing since I had to replace the caliper on that same wheel last spring. It was stuck and the brakes were dragging. I wonder if there was hidden damage done to the bearing that is finally showing itself. Since the wheel passed the top/botton rocking test, I guess I'll have to pull the bearing and check it visually.
I will post my results.
 

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Even if the bearing looks good visually upon first examination, soak it in B-12 Chemtool or Berryman Carb/part cleaner or some other similar strong solvent so that you can examine the bearing and race surfaces sans grease. It's possible that there is either grease coking up the bearing from overheating, or damage that the grease might hide. If it looks good visually, repack it before re-installing.

I'm wondering if the prior brake caliper issue you had either damaged that bearing, or at least caused the wheel bearing grease to "cook" onto the bearing/race surfaces.
 

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more data always helps...

Bob, after hearing that part, i'm about 85% sure that your problem is the bearing. when the hub heats up due to dragging caliper, brg grease liquefies (it doesn't get hot enough to turn to coke, at least that i've seen) and runs out of the brg. this is so common that ooze from brgs is one of the diagnostic signs, along with excessive brake dust/heat annd drag on wheel, that a mechanic will use to point him in direction of likely dragging caliper. if i recallright, you'll have to yank entire hub and steering knuckle to access brg tho. i think it's presssed into hub.

and no, it won't hurt anythig to spin 1 wheel by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It all makes sense. The reason I was led to check/replace the caliper in the first place was the excessive brake dust on the wheel that I noticed while washing it. (It's my wife's car, so I don't get to drive it, I just get to fix it!). The caliper and rotor appeared like they took a lot of heat. I didn't think to check the bearing at the time, but I guess it's time now.
Haynes says that the entire steering knuckle has to come off and the bearing pressed out with a hydraulic press. Sounds like a trip to NAPA with all the parts.
My next question is will I screw up the alignment that was just done, or can I preserve the settings if I mark the position of the wheel/steering parts?
 

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use a scriber to carefully mark position of strut and outline of holes and you shd be OK. i allus get the "lifetime" alignment contract so i can always have em check it afdter such jobs tho.
 

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Problem solved!

You guys are good! It was the bearing in the left front tire. It took $60 worth of parts from Napa and $60 worth of labor to get the thing fixed. Apparently the bearing races had really gotten stuck in the bearing housing. Napa couldn't get the thing out so they sent it to a local shop which was able to free the old one and put in the new one. The aligment is still good ( I marked the upper strut support bolts well) and the car is once again quiet.
Thanks again for your help.
 

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Re: Problem solved!

BobD said:
You guys are good! It was the bearing in the left front tire. It took $60 worth of parts from Napa and $60 worth of labor to get the thing fixed. Apparently the bearing races had really gotten stuck in the bearing housing. Napa couldn't get the thing out so they sent it to a local shop which was able to free the old one and put in the new one. The aligment is still good ( I marked the upper strut support bolts well) and the car is once again quiet.
Thanks again for your help.

I am about to take my car in for it's 105k tune-up. I think I have a bad bearing as well. I'm hoping I will be as lucky as you and correct what sounds like excessive tire noise.
 

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The only way I knew for sure with mine was to disconnect the steering knuckle from the drive shaft and spin the bearing. At that point I could definitely feel the bearing wasn't rolling right. With the tire/wheel/drive shaft on, there was enough inertia and weight that it was tough to feel the problem. It still seemed somewhat smooth, albeit "less" smooth than the other side.
I was told by the guy who replaced the bearing in my knuckle that it's about a 3 hour job + parts since there is so much labor to remove the knuckle. (He charged me about 1 hour labor to remove the old bearing from the knuckle. Apparently mine was really stuck.)
Good luck!!
 
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