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I get an intermittent flashing of 3 lights in the instrument cluster. ABS, Brake, And the Battery icon. Is this alternator related? ABS sensor?

Just replaced battery, and they indicated Charging system was OK>

Thanks in advance.
 

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I get an intermittent flashing of 3 lights in the instrument cluster. ABS, Brake, And the Battery icon. Is this alternator related? ABS sensor?

Just replaced battery, and they indicated Charging system was OK>

Thanks in advance.
Check your battery connections. I had similar problems from a failed alternator, but given that you just replaced your battery it is worth checking there first.

The ABS does require a fair bit of electricity, so voltage drops will trip ABS errors very easily.
 

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Check your battery connections. I had similar problems from a failed alternator, but given that you just replaced your battery it is worth checking there first.

The ABS does require a fair bit of electricity, so voltage drops will trip ABS errors very easily.
Connections seem OK. No lights on today Comes and goes. Strange.
 

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Check your light bulbs for shorts across the contacts. Espc. tail, signal lights.
 

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If the battery and alternator connections are tight and clean, you almost certainly have an alternator on the way out. As soon as the alt stops charging, and the voltage drops below around 12 volts, the ABS will set a voltage code and turn on the light, as there won't be enough voltage to run the pump motor. For reasons unknown, most Japanese cars turn on the red brake light when the alternator quits.
 

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My car showed these symptoms. It would come and go, sometimes draining my battery completely. The alternator tested good but after I replaced it I didn't have the issue again.

-Tim
 

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Time to replace the alternator, with a good quality rebuilt. Bear in mind this is no cheap item to do it right, but experience has told me that the piece of mind is worth the extra $$
 

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same issue

I had the same exact indication in my '96 was on my first long trip in months running the ac, wipers, and radio... got the three lights on the dash then called my friend to ask what was up with that, he told me my alternator was going out and to stop and get it checked... the lights went out for a while then came back on.
After maybe an hour of driving with the warning lights on and everything but the wipers turned off. The wipers went nuts, like super fast overdrive mode for a few seconds, then the car died and the gauges went dead. I was still cruising down the highway at about seventy with the clutch pushed in figured maybe I could like push start it back up...bad idea because when i dumped the clutch the gauges came back and the wipers went nuts again but this time after maybe a second of that, the car died again, this time with a puff of smoke from behind the dash.
Anyway, not to hijack this thread, let me know if i should repost in a new thread, but I was looking for some help in troubleshooting this problem. After getting the car stopped i saw that the fusible link in the main fuse box had blown along with several fuses. The car wouldn't even try to start. I replaced the fusible link and now it tries to start but it sounds like it just won't get going like there is no fuel(which I verified I've got fuel by adding 5 gallons just to make sure). The check engine light flashes now and my friend said that might mean the computer is fried. I pulled a few dash panels off and pulled all the center console stuff to see if there is anything obviously fried or melted back there and it's like a rats nest of wire bundles and I have no clue where to start. Does anyone have any advice on how to troubleshoot this problem or maybe a wiring diagram or how I would verify that it is the computer that is keeping if from firing? and where I would get a new computer for it?
I have a 96' subaru outback 2.2 legacy.
 

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classic charging issues:

1. batter and connections - remove, clean, make them tight
2. alternator getting tired
3. the crank pulley is separating at the rubber ring - meaning the outer part isn't turning as fast as the inner and thus reducing alterantor output.

for #3 - draw a grease pen mark or otherwise across the face of the pulley and keep checking it. if the line doesn't stay straight and becomes broken while driving, you have crank pulley separation and need a new one (or used one - this doesn't happen very often but it does). i wouldn't expect this on a 2001 with that few of miles though.
 

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Hello,
I have a 2004 subaru outback and the abs,brake and batter lights will flicker on and off. When it does this the headlights will also flicker on and off. I've replaced both battery post connectors and have the alternator and battery both checked and they both are still good so I'm lost any ideas?
Thanks
 

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Alternator Bad

Thanks for all the help on this thread as I just had my cluster light up like a Christmas tree. I have an '07 Outback with 106k on it and a battery that was at least 5 years old. I took it to Advanced Auto to have it checked and they said there was only 170 cranking amps when it should be above 500 for sure. So, I figured it was time for a new battery. They installed it and then tested the alternator while in the car. It wasn't putting out anything. Soooo....an alternator is what I needed as well. As soon as I installed the new alternator, all my lights went out on the cluster and it runs fine.
Now if I can only get that Check Engine Light P0420 code figured out. I think it's the O2 sensor, but I haven't come to the grips that I'm shelling out $100 for a new one....ugh. I had hopes that somehow this alternator thing would cure that, but nope. It came on this morning.
 

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I checked for exhaust leaks and couldn't find any. I recently replaced the upstream O2 sensor and just got that P0420 Code again! When I did the head gasket repair job, I replaced the gaskets between the exhaust and heads as well. Everything checks out there too.

My next step would be to replace the downstream O2 sensor as I've read a couple threads here about that being an issue as well. The upstream O2 sensor I replaced was really bad and so I thought I had it licked! Not.
 

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Thanks for all the help on this thread as I just had my cluster light up like a Christmas tree. I have an '07 Outback with 106k on it and a battery that was at least 5 years old. I took it to Advanced Auto to have it checked and they said there was only 170 cranking amps when it should be above 500 for sure. So, I figured it was time for a new battery. They installed it and then tested the alternator while in the car. It wasn't putting out anything. Soooo....an alternator is what I needed as well. As soon as I installed the new alternator, all my lights went out on the cluster and it runs fine.
Now if I can only get that Check Engine Light P0420 code figured out. I think it's the O2 sensor, but I haven't come to the grips that I'm shelling out $100 for a new one....ugh. I had hopes that somehow this alternator thing would cure that, but nope. It came on this morning.
The check engine error code could be a leaking intake manifold (not cracked, but bad gaskets) I had mine replaced, they re-designed the gaskets to prevent the air leaks. Total cost to replace the gaskets was around $400 if I remember correctly. The gaskets were $40 for the parts. Since I had that done, no issues with that code or any check engine codes. (My 2007 Outback is the Turbo, but the intake manifold is the same and so are the gaskets.)
 

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I had the same problem on my 2003 last year. I replaced the alternator, and it solved the issue. Afterwards, I had the alternator tested, and also got a good reading.
 
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