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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
Joined
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16,074 Posts
The rear--best solution. I have posted this several times already...

  • Shimming/spacing down the transmisstion cross member.
This tilts the transmission output shaft angle down.

  • In conjuction with spacing down the carrier bearing.
This drops the carrier bearing. The goal is to have the drive shaft...along the same "line" as stock. Here is where it starts to get tricky. If you look at different models, years, even cars. They are different.

  • In conjuction with shimming the rear subframe mounts.
The rear subframe needs to tilt up. Most (if not all lifts) have rear subframe spacers that are not unique. The rear pion angle needs to get pitched up. This means the rear-rear subframe spacers need to be "taller" than the front-rear subframe spacer. Adding the 3rd moving part to the mix, it gets even tricker. A lot of time playing and testing differnt senarios.

I have also posted a few times. If I could get data from people with stock cars, and lifted cars. (Some people have conacted me, so far nothing has gone anywhere) If I could get s measurement off the ground at certain points, and driveshaft angles, pinion angles. Then I could develope a kit. The data would hopefully converge on a "standard" that is best for all vs, unique kits. I don't have access to the cars, so I'm stuck. Many a interweb geek could source the design data from pirated Subaru black files. But I'm not that guy.
 

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Registered
2015 Subaru Legacy
Joined
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12 Posts
sweet looking ride there in front of that jeep. I want to lift a 2010-present legacy. (as I have a 2002 legacy outback sedan with too much rust now).

please click on the link in my signature to and give us the specs the legacy. (so it appears at the left of your posts)
485946

I wanted to go for a updated version or your 2002 in a 2015 legacy. Love those cars, is your 2002 chain driven.
And thank you! I was trying to find that!
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
Joined
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26,035 Posts
I wanted to go for a updated version or your 2002 in a 2015 legacy. Love those cars, is your 2002 chain driven.
And thank you! I was trying to find that!
all EJ engines have timing belts. FA / FB/ EZ are chains.

and if that is your lifted impreza. please start a new thread about it here

as I am thinking about lifting a 2009-2010 impreza as a project.
 

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Registered
2015 Subaru Legacy
Joined
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12 Posts
all EJ engines have timing belts. FA / FB/ EZ are chains.

and if that is your lifted impreza. please start a new thread about it here

as I am thinking about lifting a 2009-2010 impreza as a project.
Oh I gotcha I gotcha.
Not my project, Patrick from ADF sent me a picture of it. I can DM you Patrick’s email if you want to get some social media or contact information for that build!
 

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Brucey
'17 3.6
Joined
·
10,854 Posts
The rear--best solution. I have posted this several times already...

  • Shimming/spacing down the transmisstion cross member.
This tilts the transmission output shaft angle down.

  • In conjuction with spacing down the carrier bearing.
This drops the carrier bearing. The goal is to have the drive shaft...along the same "line" as stock. Here is where it starts to get tricky. If you look at different models, years, even cars. They are different.

  • In conjuction with shimming the rear subframe mounts.
The rear subframe needs to tilt up. Most (if not all lifts) have rear subframe spacers that are not unique. The rear pion angle needs to get pitched up. This means the rear-rear subframe spacers need to be "taller" than the front-rear subframe spacer. Adding the 3rd moving part to the mix, it gets even tricker. A lot of time playing and testing differnt senarios.

I have also posted a few times. If I could get data from people with stock cars, and lifted cars. (Some people have conacted me, so far nothing has gone anywhere) If I could get s measurement off the ground at certain points, and driveshaft angles, pinion angles. Then I could develope a kit. The data would hopefully converge on a "standard" that is best for all vs, unique kits. I don't have access to the cars, so I'm stuck. Many a interweb geek could source the design data from pirated Subaru black files. But I'm not that guy.
I'm willing to be a guinea pig again.

What #'s you need, boss?
 

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Registered
2015 Subaru Outback 2.0 Diesel
Joined
·
12 Posts
but plasti dipping your hood, buying BFG ko2's, LP wheels, ditch lights, wheel arch moldings, fog light tint and an aftermarket grill is?......... Bro your "off-road" vehicle is capable of everything but going off-road LOL!! i hope they have paved roads where you go camping.... And who worries about a wobble when that's all one experiences on the less traveled roads? I don't go to malls or car shows with my Outback so I would never worry about the little things affecting the pleasure I get from my off road vehicle. being able to clear a rut that a Toyota Camry wouldn't be able to is more what's on my mind. You can't let the little things deter your happiness with a still solid performing vehicle like that. BTW I love plastidip and still want to do that to my hood ;)

well said (y):cool:👏

Totally agree ✌
 

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Registered
Fillup, the 2017 3.6R
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
The rear--best solution. I have posted this several times already...

  • Shimming/spacing down the transmisstion cross member.
This tilts the transmission output shaft angle down.

  • In conjuction with spacing down the carrier bearing.
This drops the carrier bearing. The goal is to have the drive shaft...along the same "line" as stock. Here is where it starts to get tricky. If you look at different models, years, even cars. They are different.

  • In conjuction with shimming the rear subframe mounts.
The rear subframe needs to tilt up. Most (if not all lifts) have rear subframe spacers that are not unique. The rear pion angle needs to get pitched up. This means the rear-rear subframe spacers need to be "taller" than the front-rear subframe spacer. Adding the 3rd moving part to the mix, it gets even tricker. A lot of time playing and testing differnt senarios.

I have also posted a few times. If I could get data from people with stock cars, and lifted cars. (Some people have conacted me, so far nothing has gone anywhere) If I could get s measurement off the ground at certain points, and driveshaft angles, pinion angles. Then I could develope a kit. The data would hopefully converge on a "standard" that is best for all vs, unique kits. I don't have access to the cars, so I'm stuck. Many a interweb geek could source the design data from pirated Subaru black files. But I'm not that guy.
I am currently wrapped up in a few projects with the car at the moment and I am always around it to take measurements. We could start an online based poll that has multiple questions for each respective measurement point you're looking for, people would select the closest "answer" measurements from for each of the points they measure/you're looking for so you can collect an ongoing spread of where the mean seems to be for all lifted and non-lifted vehicles..? I do this a lot with my Mechanical Engineering class teams and it seems to work out pretty well so long as no one goes in and deliberately fudges numbers...you might have to plan on tossing outliers in that case. Or just a good old fashion spreadsheet? Individuals emailing you measurements sounds like a nightmare to me lol
 

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Registered
Fillup, the 2017 3.6R
Joined
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94 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Don’t disagree.
However, rarely will that 2” really be a deal breaker where you can go vs the other limitations of the Subaru Outback platform?
Also, you are dropping some components which is the opposite of why you lift.
legitimate question here: which components are actually lower than when suspension is stock? Do the subframe spacers actually lower the subframe compared to stock height off the ground or just retain the original position relative to the new spacers being installed? Im still constantly learning about frame/subframe/control arm design so any insight helps, thanks.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
Joined
·
16,074 Posts
I am currently wrapped up in a few projects with the car at the moment and I am always around it to take measurements. We could start an online based poll that has multiple questions for each respective measurement point you're looking for, people would select the closest "answer" measurements from for each of the points they measure/you're looking for so you can collect an ongoing spread of where the mean seems to be for all lifted and non-lifted vehicles..? I do this a lot with my Mechanical Engineering class teams and it seems to work out pretty well so long as no one goes in and deliberately fudges numbers...you might have to plan on tossing outliers in that case. Or just a good old fashion spreadsheet? Individuals emailing you measurements sounds like a nightmare to me lol
This is a great idea. Having the information here for all to see would be great. I am not the one to build the spreadsheets. Well maybe, but I am limited in those skills.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
Joined
·
16,074 Posts
I'm willing to be a guinea pig again.

What #'s you need, boss?
Here is what I need. I hope to come up with a sketch to post showing a diagram. It may be difficult to get under the car, while at rest on the ground. Even more so for stock height. I can get under my lowered OBs, its d*mn tight and claustrophobic.

  • transmission output shaft center-line height.
  • transmission output shaft angle vs horizontal (180)
  • rear differential center-line height (center of u-joint cross)
  • rear differential pinion angle vs horizontal
The rear diff angle will be the most difficult to get. You might have to draw a line along the side of the housing and line up an angle reading device to the estimated line. Getting the angles of the driveshaft halves at the u-joints would also be helpful.
 

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Registered
2018 Outback 3.6R Limited 50th Anniversary
Joined
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79 Posts
Helloooooo????!!!! This is MY thread! Stop hijacking it! hahahah kidding.

Here are some videos from Boise Ridge Road UTV trail that I said, "hold my beer, watch this." As always, it was MUCH more daunting in person.



enjoy! Not sure what kind of phone my buddy has, it's like resolution of 1x2 hah
 

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Registered
Fillup, the 2017 3.6R
Joined
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94 Posts
Discussion Starter #74
Here we go! There is a column to add reference photos for each respective location when we are able to do so. Anyone can comment on the sheet to add their values. **Look at the different sheets at the bottom of the screen, each different lift setup is color coded, enter values in your respective sheet. The template is protected from anyone editing but everyone has permission to enter their measurements. Choose a column, enter your measurements, you're done! Also, feel free to include your "member" name in the "Member:" row for communications sake. Any tips on how you measured each position would also come in handy (angle ruler, good ol' trigonometry etc...
cheers!

 
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