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2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i 2003 Legacy L special edition (retired to backup)
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Discussion Starter #81
got a new subaru oem fuel pump for $75 on e-bay... will install next weekend
 

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Discussion Starter #83
complete it was a 1 off where it could no be returned...
 

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Discussion Starter #84
@cardoc I finally got Romraider to work and log some data.. I will have a log file sometime this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
#4 misfire came back at start up yesterday and alleviated it's self after a minute or so.. to that end, I got 6 injectors, ultra sonic cleaner at work is broken, so I am going to have to clean them the old fashioned way, air can and fuel injector cleaner

:bummer dude: lol
 

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Discussion Starter #86
all 6 replacement injectors spec out at 12.6 ohms...as soon as the ultrasonic cleaner get here....they will get a thorough cleaning...going to install them when I do the fuel pump
 

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Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
@cardoc

Replaced all 3 injectors on driver's side and voila, no more #4 misfire and no more lumpy idle. Injector #4 ohmed out at 13.6 while the other 2 (#2,6) ohmed out at 12.6. there is still a ever so slight shake at idle and I am thinking once I replace the other 3 on the driver side, it will be as sooth as butter.

edit: now there s no more loud ticking from that side of the engine... makes it so I can hear the ticking on the passenger side now...lololol
 

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Discussion Starter #88
@cardoc

Oh snap #4 misfire came back along with #1 and another cylinder (3 I think) I have done my due diligence and verified wiring so now I am, thinking VVT solenoids need to come off for some ultrasonic cleaning. Beyond this, it is either going to be ECM or actual mechanical problem....
 

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What a saga.... Hope the VVT solenoid cleaning helps. I guess your ultrasonic cleaner really comes in handy!
 

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Discussion Starter #90
yeah I am not thrilled but at least I am getting it sorted...lol doing most of the work and it is hot as fudgesicles in a desert outside lately....
 

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Discussion Starter #92
@cardoc
Since this is an intermittent problem, do you think it could be compression related? I did a relative test and all looked OK...
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
This has been a relatively hard issue to track down. When I got the car it was noticeable rough idle and transmission shuddering. This is what I did in order

1. replaced 6 plugs, still had a rough idle
2. repaired the wiring harness on #4 with a new connector no change
3. replaced 6 coils, slight improvement, transmission shudder is GONE
4. replaced 6 OEM injectors with 6 used OEM ones off of Ebay. I did the drive side one day (ran out of time) and notice the biggest improvement... could no longer feel shaking in the steering wheel. Did the passenger side next day (way easier) no change.. idle is very nice with a slight miss...I can almost live with that.
5. drove the car for 3 days no P420, misfire codes.. however shudder at 1500 and 1700 showed up when car gets warm.
6. go out from work, start car and right away it is misfire #4, #1 clears up in about a minute. Go out next morning same. come back Monday to go to work and it is butter smooth again...
7. verified wiring from ECM connector in engine bay to each individual coil pack , all show continuity as expected.
8. replace #4 plug and engine is almost smooth again with a very slight miss...OK ****...

So this leads me to 3 possibilities:

a. mechanical damage
b. Engine Control Module problem
c. VVT sticking this according to the internets can cause shuddering throughout the RPM range as I am seeing

I do not have the means to diag this any further without getting a 3.6L guru involved...

I have not dumped any SEAFOAM into the engine oil yet but that is my next step at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
@cardoc not yet but i will when i reinstall them after a thorough cleaning. Putting Seafoam into oil seems to lessen the shuddering so i might be onto something here.
 

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not yet but i will when i reinstall them after a thorough cleaning. Putting Seafoam into oil seems to lessen the shuddering so i might be onto something here.
You seem to have tried a lot of stuff and so far no smoking gun. To cover all bases, I would take apart the main engine connector (passenger side, under the snorkel), clean the contacts and reseat. At least this would make you know there is a solid connection there. (I had a different misfire issue, this connector was the culprit)
 

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Discussion Starter #98
going to pull the ECM and look for broken solder joints tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #99
@cardoc

Where is the ECM located in the 2010 outback? I need to take it out and inspect for cold solder joints
 

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@YeuEmMaiMai Mine is behind the glovebox, need to take it out and the plastic protector. Takes 5 minutes or so.

I take it the connector was not helpful? Too bad.
 
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