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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a new deck a few months ago, with the intent of replacing speakers and adding in 1 10" sub and amp. I don't need a lot of bump, just a little extra.

I haven't gotten around to either yet, and just blew a speaker in the front passenger door.

I am looking for ideas on how to mount a sub and amp combo in the car. I have a 1st Gen OBW.

I had thought about mounting the amp on the inside of the hatch, and routing the wires behind the trim and through the rubber sleeves where all the other wires are routed. Has anyone done this?

I do not want a loose box, but I do want it removable, and the smaller the better. I am looking at a shallow mount more than likely, so it's pretty much all about size. I already have a box that works, but I haven't thought of a decent way to secure it without looking like crap.

Thanks guys,
Dave
 

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BoarderM - Clean install.

98Scooby - If you've got some fiberglass skills anything is possible. Like BoarderM showed a fiberglass box can be installed nearly anywhere, and in some cases where you loose zero usable space.
 

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If you still have stock speakers, I would start with replacing them and see how it works out. You might decide you don't need an amp or sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's my setup. I'm a snowboader so I need my trunk space for gear so a big ol box is out of the question. My sub is a custom box with a 10 inch shallow mount Alpine.
I like the box set up, did you buy that or make it?

As for amp location, I had thought of that, but I keep stuff stored in that location.
 

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The box is home made. It was made with fiberglass, mdf and duraglass. The volume on the side of the trunk is around 1 cubic ft. which was perfect for my subwoofer.
 

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There really weren't any plans when I built the sub. Basically, the side wall of the trunk acted like a mold for the back of the sub box. I used cardboard to make a template for the front and the top. When the fit was just right, I transfered it to mdf. I got rid of the template a while ago but it's really easy to make one up through trial and error.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow thanks BoarderM, I think I might go that route. I really like it!

I have never used fiberglass before, but I know it's not horrible to do, especially if it won't be visible. But what did you use to cover everything first, looks like some kind of tape?

I am also a snowboarder (well just getting back into it). So having all the space available will be great!
 

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That's green painter's tape. It just releases a little easier. I did 2 layers of tape to make sure I didn't get any seepage. Make sure you cover all surfaces with newspaper and cardboard. It's amazing how easy it is to accidentally get resin everywhere.
You don't need to buy mixing cups. Just get a bunch of Starbucks plastic cups. They work awesome. Mix up no more than 4 oz. at a time. Anymore and you'll risk running out of time and wasting resin. You only have about 5 or 6 minutes to use what's in the cup. Try to work when it's cool and not in the sun. The warmer it is, the faster it cures. Make sure that you have a pile of precut strips of fiberglass mat or cloth ready to go.
You'll need a paint brush to apply the resin. I went through about 20 brushes. Thank you dollar store.
Once I had a few layers down, it was strong enough to pull out. It made it alot easier to apply fiberglass when it's not in the car. Just make sure you do alot of trial fittings in between fiberglassing so the shape doesn't change.
You're going to need lots of latex gloves as well as filtered mask. The fumes are pretty toxic.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the advice, I hadn't thought about fiberglass, but thought that was a good spot for a box.

Just out of curiosity, what do you have for a head unit and door speakers?
 

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BoarderM - Nice work on the sub and great pics. I'm planning on doing the same. How did you attach the mdf to the fiberglass? and how thick did you make the fiberglass?

Thanks
 

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The fiberglass was about 5-6 layers which turned out to be between 1/8"-1/4". I think the general rule would be that it should not flex at all when pushed with a finger. It should be rock solid.
As far as how I bonded the mdf to the fiberglass, I used duraglass. Duraglass is a fiberglass filled body filler made by USC that is super strong and can provide structural strength. I think it's epoxy based rather than polyester making it far superior to stuff like regular bondo. Don't use bondo. Duraglass is what the pros would use when making subs.
 
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