When you measured at the white connector, did you measure from one wire to the other? Or, from one wire to ground?When I check the white attachment clip thing that connects to the actuator the voltage change when I hit the key fob button, but I can't get a good reading on it.
Good test. Did you try reversing the battery connections to the two contacts on the actuator to see if the actuator works to both lock, and unlock, the latch? (Just good to be sure it works both ways.)I just tested the actuator directly with a 9v battery and the actuator itself works.
I put one probe in one of the holes in the white connector thing and the other probe in the other hole of the white connector thing.When you measured at the white connector, did you measure from one wire to the other? Or, from one wire to ground?
INNOVA 3320. I just bought it. For this purpose.What brand and model meter are you using? Might help knowing if any instruction on use is to be provided.
I just tried it. It works to both lock/unlock when reversing the battery.Good test. Did you try reversing the battery connections to the two contacts on the actuator to see if the actuator works to both lock, and unlock, the latch? (Just good to be sure it works both ways.)
Ugh. I watched a youtube video yesterday about replacing the harness. Doesn't look fun at all.I guarantee that most, if not all of the rest of the wires in the boot are bad, whether or not they all look bad. Repairing the wires right at the boot without pulling new wires all the way through will just make the stress on the others worse.
If with that connection, there was a pulse of voltage each time the lock or unlock button on the remote control was pressed, the wiring to the actuator connector is physically intact. However, it could still have a poor connection.I put one probe in one of the holes in the white connector thing and the other probe in the other hole of the white connector thing.
Okay, good. It's auto-ranging (handy) and covers all the voltage and resistance ranges you might need.INNOVA 3320. I just bought it. For this purpose.
As was noted, that confirms the actuator motor works. Good.I just tried it. It works to both lock/unlock when reversing the battery.
I would not apply any voltage to the wires; as was noted in another post, they go back to the body integrated unit (BIU), which normally sends power out to the actuator. Applying power to the BIU through the wires could damage it.. . . To evaluate the repair, could I connect a wire directly, either from the car battery or a 9v battery, to the exposed area (before the repair) and a wire from the white connector thing to the actuator. And then a ground cable (from what ever battery I'm using) directly to the actuator? Or would I blow up my car by doing it....?
Well, for starters, I hate poping the plastic trims off. It scares the crap out of me every time i do it. I've been lucky so far though and nothing has broken. I bought one of those plastic clip removers which I guess helps a lot too. Plus I don't want to replace something before identifying the problem and waste money on something I don't need.Therefore, I really have to ask here: What's the reason for all of these complex diagnostic steps?
Yes.I found this one which seems like a great walkthrough: legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/walkthrough-replace-wagon-wire-harness-238160.html
I assume it should be generally similar on a 2008 Outback.
Not sure, but note that the original wires used in these harnesses was not the correct type to take flexing, subjecting them to chronic failure. I may be wrong but I think there is a debate here about whether or not the replacements are any better than these originals. But another option is to repair the harness using proper high-flex 18 gauge wire and butt splices, such as this guy did here:Also, my understanding is that the correct item for a 2008 Outback is: 81812AG03C. Is this correct?