Any 2010's with 100k
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I plan on handing down our 2011 2.5i CVT to our four & 19 mos old when they learn to drive. It will probably be pushing 200k by then, but I'm hoping it will make it. I did call Subaru to get a cost on the CVT unit being that there are no internal parts that you can fix or repair. They said $8K before labor. In 12 years this car will be a $5-$6K car so I'm hoping it makes it.
Just past halfway mark(52K) on my 2010 3.6R... Already have to replace battery under warranty...and multiple recall items.(Mostly just check, can't remember if hey actually replace anything)
No out of pocket repair bills yet....except for Windshield replacement.(chips and then cracks/run)...
car feel like it gonna last a long time butso far NOT as trouble my previous 2 Hondas..... Much better than my previous Toyota, BMW, Nissan, GM and FIAT!!
No out of pocket repair bills yet....except for Windshield replacement.(chips and then cracks/run)...
car feel like it gonna last a long time butso far NOT as trouble my previous 2 Hondas..... Much better than my previous Toyota, BMW, Nissan, GM and FIAT!!
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My wifes car is two years old, 29K miles. She is on her 2nd windshield which has a new crack as I type this (Commutes highway daily) while the drive train I feel will hold up just fine, I question the cloth seat durability (Driver bolster shows wear from getting in & out daily) Also I think the struts shocks are a weak point on these cars. I had the front passenger strut replaced at 2500 miles because it went bad.
exactly what i expect of mine. planning on my outback being my now 2 year old daughter's first car. im scared of when the transmission dies too since it isn't serviceable.
You never know. 15 years from now it could be serviceable. Of course 15 years from now all gas cars could be banned, or human drivers could be banned too.
I plan to have this car 200k+ myself too.
thanks to mpg, all auto maker are making the windshield to get the car weight down.....Audi is the worst offender.....
when your cloth seat do wear out, go get after market leather, i think you can get it for under $900
+100k diesel
doesn't know if this helps much. But my diesel manual has now 180000km (so plus 100000 miles).
2 problems/issues so far. DPF filter had to be cleaned at 130000km and airco failure at 160000km.
Car has cost me till now(write off included) 0.25 eurocents/km (I've managed 150000km on my first brake pads!). Compared to my previous BMW 320xd that's about 2/3 of running costs.
Will order a new CVT diesel when available in europe.
Only thing that's more expensive then my BMW are tires. I need to replace all 4 every 60000km (BMW 90000km).
doesn't know if this helps much. But my diesel manual has now 180000km (so plus 100000 miles).
2 problems/issues so far. DPF filter had to be cleaned at 130000km and airco failure at 160000km.
Car has cost me till now(write off included) 0.25 eurocents/km (I've managed 150000km on my first brake pads!). Compared to my previous BMW 320xd that's about 2/3 of running costs.
Will order a new CVT diesel when available in europe.
Only thing that's more expensive then my BMW are tires. I need to replace all 4 every 60000km (BMW 90000km).
'07 OBXT Ltd. 5EAT, Charcoal Gray; '70 Chevy K10 4X4, 396c.i., lifted; '63 Pontiac Tempest, 326c.i.
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I don't have a 2010+, but may be able to provide a little insight....since I have the XT, I SHOULD be having more problems than the standard 2.5i, yet I haven't seen a drawback yet, and I just passed the 102K mile mark on my 2007. The entire car is tight as a button, no leaks or problems to speak of. Granted, I'm good to all of my vehicles, but I still drive them somewhat more "spirited-ly."
Last weekend, i took care of the timing belt. Since I did it myself, the parts cost me roughly $500 (new belt, tensioners, pulleys, new water pump, and new (upgraded) oil pump from 2008 Sti.) The job took me 12 hours, but if I did it again, I'm sure I can do it in under 6 with the knowledge I have now. The pumps did not NEED to be replaced (and actually looked surprisingly good for 100K miles.) If you don't do the job yourself, (don't quote me on this) but I think the job books for 4 - 5 hours, and shop rates are anywhere from $80/hour if you're somewhere like ID or MT to $125/hour for parts of WA or CA (for instance).
Everything else should be roughly the same on serviceability costs between our vehicles, so I won't go into any more detail. Not sure if this was some of the specific information you were looking for on an Outback with 100K+ miles.
Last weekend, i took care of the timing belt. Since I did it myself, the parts cost me roughly $500 (new belt, tensioners, pulleys, new water pump, and new (upgraded) oil pump from 2008 Sti.) The job took me 12 hours, but if I did it again, I'm sure I can do it in under 6 with the knowledge I have now. The pumps did not NEED to be replaced (and actually looked surprisingly good for 100K miles.) If you don't do the job yourself, (don't quote me on this) but I think the job books for 4 - 5 hours, and shop rates are anywhere from $80/hour if you're somewhere like ID or MT to $125/hour for parts of WA or CA (for instance).
Everything else should be roughly the same on serviceability costs between our vehicles, so I won't go into any more detail. Not sure if this was some of the specific information you were looking for on an Outback with 100K+ miles.
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I think we are at around 48K on the 2010 OB and around 45K on the Legacy. Both are doing great zero issues. I think there was one 2010 poster a while back talking about tires that had 110K on his 2010.
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It is anyone guess on the LOngevity of the CVT now.... I know the 3.6R Tranny (OLD school 5EAT) are very reliable... One of the reason I pick the 3.6R over the 2.5CVT. The other reason is the Timing belt vs chain (comparing 2010 models)...
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Fair guess the CVT under normal proper use should be no different than the 5EAT. Especially with the 2.5 which is not a gear buster power house to start with. If they are pairing up the 2T in the Forester and the Diesel to more or less the same CVT with small tweaks to them - then the little 2.5 gasser at 170hp isn't exactly a major stress point for the CVT.
Improper use will do any transmission in far before its time though.
Improper use will do any transmission in far before its time though.
72k and going strong on my 2.5i 2010. Nothing other than basic maintenance required. They are mostly all highway miles over a relatively flat commute, so I'm likely not working the CVT as hard as you will be by the time you reach 100k.
A highway driver's 100k (which is what you're asking for pretty much by asking about a 2010 with 100k miles in 2013) will not equal the wear and tear on a city driver's 100k since there is a lot less wasted energy by not having to start/stop at upteen traffic lights. I think it'd be nice if the industry could come up with a standardized "wear and tear" meter that factors in how hard/often the driver accelerates, the speeds traveled and other factors in addition to just the number of miles. What such a measurement would mean from car model to car model would be different, but it would let you cross-shop the two used cars of the same model with a better idea of how they were driven. Probably won't ever happen though since it would not benefit the new car market.
A highway driver's 100k (which is what you're asking for pretty much by asking about a 2010 with 100k miles in 2013) will not equal the wear and tear on a city driver's 100k since there is a lot less wasted energy by not having to start/stop at upteen traffic lights. I think it'd be nice if the industry could come up with a standardized "wear and tear" meter that factors in how hard/often the driver accelerates, the speeds traveled and other factors in addition to just the number of miles. What such a measurement would mean from car model to car model would be different, but it would let you cross-shop the two used cars of the same model with a better idea of how they were driven. Probably won't ever happen though since it would not benefit the new car market.
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