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2001 Outback. 2.5 automatic trans.
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello new member here

Hello everyone,
Great to be here and very glad !!
My name is Mike, my daughter just purchased her first car, using her own $!
She found an 01 Outback, i have never personally owned a Subaru, but have many friends that have.
They all RAVE about how they go in the snow, and how dependable they are.
Well we live in the Southern Tier of New York state, ( about 90 miles south of Buffalo) we get DUMPED on with snow, being my daughter is a fairly new driver, wanted something good. So far so good, she loves the Outback!!
I have just gotten done putting remaned calipers, and new rotors and brake pads up front. They seem relativaly straightforward to work on. And well built
 

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2001 Outback. 2.5 automatic trans.
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Hello, im new to this great forum, & new to subsru ownership as well.
Well my question is...
What is the thing on the radiator top tank, just below the radiator cap?
Please see attachment
Mine appears to leak coolant! Is there an O-ring in there that could need replaced?
It has a 8mm hex in it so it looks as tho it can be removed. What is it
Thank you in advance
Mike
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,324 Posts
from your previous post:

this is a 2001 2.5. (vs. the 3.0 of the same year).
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,324 Posts
and merged threads.

how many miles on that car? (presuming that is the original rad).
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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What is the thing on the radiator top tank, just below the radiator cap?
Please see attachment
Mine appears to leak coolant! Is there an O-ring in there that could need replaced?
It has a 8mm hex in it so it looks as tho it can be removed.
Likely a soft plug to protect against freeze damage should you use too low a concentration of coolant.

But the leak appears to be above it at either the filler neck or radiator cap, not this plug.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,324 Posts
step 1 in buying a used car like a subaru:

buy a new OEM rad cap, OEM thermostat, and OEM PCV.

(unique things, and what maybe on there is not functioning properly due to being "old" or being aftermarket junk that was made not to work right).

$35 in things that you can find on amazon from real subaru dealers. (and gives all kinds of priceless piece of mind, vs. nagging little problems that get expensive fast).

rad caps that are too loose / too tight are typical here. (the OEM cap measures in KPA, aftermarkets measure in psi typically and screw up)
 

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2001 Outback. 2.5 automatic trans.
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the fast replies!
Sorry for not giving complete details.
161,000 miles
2.5L engine
New stant radiator cap right after i saw the coolant over flow bottle had mor coolant in it than it had previously.
But DEFINATELY an external leak. Concentrating from that item in the pic.
Have any of you ever removed this item from radiator tank?
Good suggestions thus far, yes the car is getting some TLC. thermostat/coolant flush&fill on the agenda for this weekend. The service sticker on the windshield states its got about 1000 since its last oil change, but over 6 months ago, so probably do that as well this weekend.
Mike
 

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2001 Outback. 2.5 automatic trans.
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Discussion Starter #8
appart coolant leak?

Oh nearly forgot, with the new 15psi Stant rad. Cap it still pushes coolant back into overflow bottle, so i must add about a pint (16fl.oz) often. Temp gage appears to be working ( C when first started up, and tends to run right about in the middle.
 

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'01 OBW 3.0 VDC 184,000 Miles '19 OB 2.5 Base <2,000 Miles - Formerly '14 Impreza Sedan 2.0 5spd 66,000 Miles at trade-in
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330 Posts
Take the Stant off and keep it for another car. OEM or else
 

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2000 Subaru Outback Limited Sedan, 2.5L
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163 Posts
Take it from someone who ALWAYS went cheap when it came to ordering parts for my Subaru...buy ONLY OEM replacements! Just finished my second head gasket job in six months after using cheap, aftermarket (Chinese, I presume), head gaskets. There was a day I would filter through Amazon or eBay options using lowest price as my only decision-maker. Now I search for OEM first. Pay the extra cash and go OEM. Less regrets down the road.
 

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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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Likely a soft plug to protect against freeze damage should you use too low a concentration of coolant.

No idea what it is for, but it definitely will not act as a freeze plug.


To the OP - just remove it, clean the threads, an if there is an o-ring, replace it. If no o-ring, use some pipe thread sealant ( or some teflon tape) and reinstall it.
 

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. . .But the leak appears to be above it at either the filler neck or radiator cap, not this plug.
Indeed. There even appears to be a drop (yellowish color but that could be lighting/background) just to the left of the locking tab on the cap. (See attached)

Also, that fitting below is located where I think there would be a fitting for H6 left side upper rad hose would connect to the upper tank. If that is a plug of some sort, I guess it could be leaking, but the appearance of wetness well above suggests the accumulation around the plug might be coming from higher up.
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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How many miles driven are you adding coolant?

2 post you said the overflow was high and have to add coolant. The Stant cap could be letting it out because it doesn't seal correctly, but I would monitor the coolant after you get a Subaru cap on the radiator.

You may also want to check the timing belt and tensioner. The driver side cover is easily removed without taking the belts off. You can look at the belt and if you you in behind the other cover, you'll see the tensioner. If the tensioner pulley is resting about a 1/2 inch or better above the water pump, it is most likely good to go. Closer you'll need to replace the timing belt and pulleys. Maybe get it done with the coolant exchange and thermostat. Easier to work on the timing belt with the radiator out anyway.

Just something to think about. New belt will go another 100k miles, as with the thermostat and coolant.
 

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2001 Outback. 2.5 automatic trans.
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Discussion Starter #15
Hello, and thanks to ALL that pointed me in the right direction! Got in touch with a local, (well sorta local!! Erie Pa.) Subaru dealership. They did not have the radiator cap in stock, but do have the thermostat, & gasket in stock. The rad. cap will be here Tuesday. So the wife has that day off work, she will get the parts, and do some shopping. She has already found some shops and stores that interest her!!!
Should i have her pick up a Subaru OEM oil filter as well while at the dealership? Or is a good quality filter adequate?
I plan to use conventional "dino" Pennzoil 10w30.
 

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2000 Outback Limited, Dual Range 5 Speed
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Oem oil filter, relief pressure on after markets is incorrect.
 

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2005 3.0 R n totaled
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Some items must be OEM - Radiator cap is one of them! Chuck Stant immediately!
 

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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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I plan to use conventional "dino" Pennzoil 10w30.

1 - Familiarize yourself with both Subaruonlineparts and Rock Auto for repair parts. Subaruonlineparts is near you. Rockauto is in Wisconsin.


2 - If you want the engine to really last, stick with synthetic oil. Well worth the difference in cost, in part because of the double-the-mileage change interval, and in part because of the much better protection.



3 - More than likely your transmission oil, as well as the oils in both differentials, need changing. Get those changed as well, as soon as possible.


4 - If you do not have documentation as to when the timing belt and its idlers were last changed, get that done asap as well ( an easy afternoon job that has plenty of youtube videos about how to do it). Use an Aisin kit (Rockauto) that also has a replacement waterpump.


5 - If rust has not already started at the top back edge of the rear wheel wells - the spot that typically starts rusting first on these cars - remove the interior panels over those areas and pour/spray in either something like red rustoleum primer or one of the wax-type rustproofers to seal the seam between the side panel and the inner wheel well panel. If the sealer that Subaru puts in at the factory to seal up the vertical part of the seam at the very back edge of the wheelwell sticks up above the horizontal area forward of it, it acts as a water trap, allowing water to just sit there and eventually start the rusting process. Trim off the part that sticks up. If rust has started underneath the bead of sealer, remove the sealer and treat the rust with a rust converter and then seal with the above mentioned methods.



Good luck with the car - she will enjoy owning it.
 

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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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Oh yes - saw the big hole in the RH rear fender. Ouch.


You need to find a way to patch that hole to keep water from continually getting in there, or within another year or so the hole will be monstrous!



And, from what I have read, the reason for rusting on that side is that the fuel cavity has sprung a leak, so you need to look at that as well.
 
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