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2014 outback at oil temp keeps coming on while driving in 100+ degree outside temperatures on road trip. I pull over and let it sit on idle until the light turns off. Any ideas on what could keep causing the at oil temp to keep coming on and how to fix the issue?
 

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When the car cools off check your coolant level in the radiator. Coolant out of the radiator runs through an oil cooler mounted on the CVT. If it's low it's like losing heat at the heater core only it lets the transmission fluid heat up instead of getting cooled down.
 

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Did you figure out the issue? My 14 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited (104,000 miles) has the light come on (solid) after 40+ mins on the freeway. I recently had the Transmission flushed 2 weeks ago too but the problem persists. The light turns off after I let the car idle or if I kill/restart the engine. No codes came up at Subaru since the light disappears by the time I get to the dealership.
 

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@SuperWho94
That's not correct. The codes remain in the TCM memory as "old" for quite some time even after the light goes out. The service dept at Subaru is feeding you crap, or they didn't look at the TCM to retrieve the codes from it.

Find a shop that can scan all the modules on the car or take it back to Subaru and tell them you want a full scan report.
 

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My 14 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited (104,000 miles) has the light come on (solid) after 40+ mins on the freeway.
The codes remain in the TCM memory as "old" for quite some time even after the light goes out.
If the AT Oil Temp light comes on steady, it's indicating high ATF temperature. If the AT Oil Temp light flashes, it's indicating a fault has been detected. As the light was on steady, I don't think there would be any fault codes, unless there were other warning lights at the same time.

I recently had the Transmission flushed . .
Presuming this is a CVT. Where was this work done; dealer or . . . ? What type of "flush" was performed, and what fluid was used to fill the transmission? (Perhaps it wasn't refilled properly, or the wrong fluid was used.)
 

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@SuperWho94
That's not correct. The codes remain in the TCM memory as "old" for quite some time even after the light goes out. The service dept at Subaru is feeding you crap, or they didn't look at the TCM to retrieve the codes from it.

Find a shop that can scan all the modules on the car or take it back to Subaru and tell them you want a full scan report.
@SuperWho94
That's not correct. The codes remain in the TCM memory as "old" for quite some time even after the light goes out. The service dept at Subaru is feeding you crap, or they didn't look at the TCM to retrieve the codes from it.

Find a shop that can scan all the modules on the car or take it back to Subaru and tell them you want a full scan report.
I had a Subaru specialist (he was the guy in the back that runs diagnostics on their computer) and he ran it in front of me on some laptop. He showed some previous/old codes (COO42, B1608) which was from a previous old battery and a sunload sensor from it being in the shade. He was showing me there were no current codes. He saw the light and then saw it disappear after a few seconds.
He said it may be a failed Valve Body. But the price I’m being quoted is more than I want so spend right now and I’m currently looking for any other diagnostics/alternatives to remediate the issue!
 

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If the AT Oil Temp light comes on steady, it's indicating high ATF temperature. If the AT Oil Temp light flashes, it's indicating a fault has been detected. As the light was on steady, I don't think there would be any fault codes, unless there were other warning lights at the same time.


Presuming this is a CVT. Where was this work done; dealer or . . . ? What type of "flush" was performed, and what fluid was used to fill the transmission? (Perhaps it wasn't refilled properly, or the wrong fluid was used.)
I had a Subaru specialist (he was the guy in the back that runs diagnostics on their computer) and he ran it in front of me on some laptop. He showed some previous/old codes (COO42, B1608) which was from a previous old battery and a sunload sensor from it being in the shade. He was showing me there were no current codes. He saw the light and then saw it disappear after a few seconds.
He said it may be a failed Valve Body. But the price I’m being quoted is more than I want so spend right now and I’m currently looking for any other diagnostics/alternatives to remediate the issue!
If the AT Oil Temp light comes on steady, it's indicating high ATF temperature. If the AT Oil Temp light flashes, it's indicating a fault has been detected. As the light was on steady, I don't think there would be any fault codes, unless there were other warning lights at the same time.


Presuming this is a CVT. Where was this work done; dealer or . . . ? What type of "flush" was performed, and what fluid was used to fill the transmission? (Perhaps it wasn't refilled properly, or the wrong fluid was used.)
I had the work done at some Transmission specialist shop (Ace Transmission or something similar). They claimed they used some specific CVT fluid and that the car was in good running shape. Keep in mind, they were not aware of my light coming on, however they said the transmission was sound and there were no leaks.
*ALSO, I did have a Subaru specialist relearn the transmission (so he claims) and afterwards, he said if the light were to return, then I definitely need a valve body. I just don’t want to spend another grand+ on this car! Help :(
 

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Is that the reservoir level? I intended for you to check the radiator. The reservoir is not an accurate level of the system. The radiator could be low and the reservoir may be at full. You'd have to take the radiator cap off and check it. Check it when the engine is cold so you don't get burned by hot coolant spraying out when the pressure is released.
 

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Is that the reservoir level? I intended for you to check the radiator. The reservoir is not an accurate level of the system. The radiator could be low and the reservoir may be at full. You'd have to take the radiator cap off and check it. Check it when the engine is cold so you don't get burned by hot coolant spraying out when the pressure is released.
Yes, I only checked the reservoir. I will check the actual radiator. I’m assuming I just take the cap off and see if I see fluid?
 

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Yes, I only checked the reservoir. I will check the actual radiator. I’m assuming I just take the cap off and see if I see fluid?
Is that the reservoir level? I intended for you to check the radiator. The reservoir is not an accurate level of the system. The radiator could be low and the reservoir may be at full. You'd have to take the radiator cap off and check it. Check it when the engine is cold so you don't get burned by hot coolant spraying out when the pressure is released.
ok so I checked the cap. It was fill up to the brim.
 

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If the AT Oil Temp light comes on steady, it's indicating high ATF temperature. If the AT Oil Temp light flashes, it's indicating a fault has been detected. As the light was on steady, I don't think there would be any fault codes, unless there were other warning lights at the same time.


Presuming this is a CVT. Where was this work done; dealer or . . . ? What type of "flush" was performed, and what fluid was used to fill the transmission? (Perhaps it wasn't refilled properly, or the wrong fluid was used.)
Hey so do you think it’s the valve body? Light is solid, transmission fluid is good, coolant level is fine. The valve body will cost me ~$700 excluding labor.
 

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Data from the trans would help but those type scan tools are pricey. $650 and up.

Along with a valve bidy you have to get 6-8 quarts of the fluid. The fluid you get from Subaru. CVTF-II.

You have to verify a valve body problem. Otherwise you'll just be spinning your wheels, so to speak.
 

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Data from the trans would help but those type scan tools are pricey. $650 and up.

Along with a valve bidy you have to get 6-8 quarts of the fluid. The fluid you get from Subaru. CVTF-II.

You have to verify a valve body problem. Otherwise you'll just be spinning your wheels, so to speak.
So what do you recommend? Having a full scan, the one you’re mentioning? I went to Subaru like I previously stated and the mechanic found no current codes, just old ones that had to do with the previous (old battery). Idk if he’s beating around the bust but I’d assume if he wanted money he would’ve charged me for that scab and gave me a worst case scenario for major repairs right away.
 

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So what do you recommend? Having a full scan, the one you’re mentioning? I went to Subaru like I previously stated and the mechanic found no current codes, just old ones that had to do with the previous (old battery). Idk if he’s beating around the bush but I’d assume if he wanted money he would’ve charged me for that scan and gave me a worst case scenario for major repairs right away. He also did a re learn on the transmission for free.
 

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If it's a warranty repair, the labor paid to the tech is reduced.

The right tech will look at the data associated with the error light to ascertain the problem area. You don't have to have codes to find a problem. Today's dealer techs use codes as a basis for repair and do not verify anything. P0420, replace the cat never looking at the engine performance. Get codes for MAF, change the expensive sensor and still have the same problem because he didn't look for fueling or air flow issues, like a vacuum leak.

You may have to find a good indie shop that has experience in finding the problem without code setting. All they have o do is look at the data.
 

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Hey so do you think it’s the valve body? Light is solid, transmission fluid is good, coolant level is fine. The valve body will cost me ~$700 excluding labor.
I'm not at all certain the problem originates with the valve body, because the light comes on steady, not flashing. As noted earlier, a steady light normally is indicating a high temperature.

So what is it with the valve body that could cause the transmission to overheat?

As @cardoc noted, this warrants further diagnosis.
 

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Temperature sensors are on the valve body. So far if the temperature sensors are bad on the valve body the valve body gets replaced. If there is an issue with fluid flow that's preventing the proper temperature regulation of the fluid then you have to find out what that is.

Look up p0712 and p0713.
 
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