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Lubricating the top of the channel the window slides in fixes the issue for me. No need to disassemble anything or replace any parts. Try that first.

The silicon lubricant from an auto-parts store I've been using needs to be refreshed every now and then. A friend recommended that I use 3-in-1 lubricant for RV sliding glass that's available at WalMart and elsewhere; he said it works longer. I'll try that if it starts having a problem again, which seems to happen more often in warm weather.
 

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Lubricating the top of the channel the window slides in fixes the issue for me. No need to disassemble anything or replace any parts. Try that first.

The silicon lubricant from an auto-parts store I've been using needs to be refreshed every now and then. A friend recommended that I use 3-in-1 lubricant for RV sliding glass that's available at WalMart and elsewhere; he said it works longer. I'll try that if it starts having a problem again, which seems to happen more often in warm weather.
i would not do that as a solution to the problem.

how do you keep the window clean and streak free ? silicone lubricant will wind up in your water seal on the door sill.
 

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It hasn't been a problem (knock wood!), but I don't go wild with the stuff, either.

The other solution involves replacing parts, which isn't terribly appealing to me and may not permanently solve the problem anyway.
 

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It hasn't been a problem (knock wood!), but I don't go wild with the stuff, either.

The other solution involves replacing parts, which isn't terribly appealing to me and may not permanently solve the problem anyway.
it may not be appealing to you.
having popped off door cards before on other cars, its packed with harnesses, noise seals, etc.

i just decided to do the regulator this afternoon and it was easier than i thought. but the noise cover is bonded to the door with weatherstrip adhesive, so it needs to be replaced when you take it off because it will rip.

also need to keep battery connected because you will need to move the window, and moving the window means the connectors have to be inserted in the door panel that is taken off.

took it all out, put a new regulator in, apply new sealant, install a new noise cover, put the door panel back on.

window rolls up and doesn't bounce back down anymore. so i’m content.

total in parts about $100.
 

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Maybe your problem was different than mine, but your description pretty much fits my expectation of the effort and cost needed to do that job. That's why, if an inexpensive treatment that can be applied in a few minutes does the job, I don't feel enthusiastic about spending $100 in parts and doing an hour or more of work (with the possibility of breaking something in the process) in an effort that may not even be relevant to the root cause of the problem.

I'm glad your problem appears to be fixed, though.
 

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Maybe your problem was different than mine, but your description pretty much fits my expectation of the effort and cost needed to do that job. That's why, if an inexpensive treatment that can be applied in a few minutes does the job, I don't feel enthusiastic about spending $100 in parts and doing an hour or more of work (with the possibility of breaking something in the process) in an effort that may not even be relevant to the root cause of the problem.

I'm glad your problem appears to be fixed, though.
whatever works for you.

the dealers are quoting 500-600 for this job, and just to remind, i did get lucky with a regulator at 1/2 the price of a new one from the dealer.

since i have the means to do it indoors and have a 2nd car to get around, i don't mind taking my time when i take apart one of my cars.
 

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i need to come back to this thread to report some findings .... after I replaced the passenger side window regulator .... the window is rolling back down again on occasion !
this is pretty disappointing to observe, especially after going thru the effort of taking the door apart, replacing the regulator, etc. it basically means to me that there might be a problem somewhere else. it's a really remote possibility that there is a large batch of defective right front window regulators out there, but that is not my first inclination. perhaps something else downstream has an issue ... ?
 

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i need to come back to this thread to report some findings .... after I replaced the passenger side window regulator .... the window is rolling back down again on occasion !
this is pretty disappointing to observe, especially after going thru the effort of taking the door apart, replacing the regulator, etc. it basically means to me that there might be a problem somewhere else. it's a really remote possibility that there is a large batch of defective right front window regulators out there, but that is not my first inclination. perhaps something else downstream has an issue ... ?
Have you tried using an appropriate lubricant on the upper part of the window track yet?
 

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My 2016 OB has been doing this intermittently for a few years but it's occurring with increasing frequency so I came here hoping to find a fix. Sad to see it's still being troubleshooted.
I'll pull the door panel today and see if anything looks unusual.
 

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Dang that adhesive is messy. Romiving the door panel is easy but getting access to the window track means peeling back the plastic dust seal and dealing with the adhesive. I didn't see anything unusual and didn't have any silicone on hand to apply as has been previously recommended so I sealed it up and put it all back together.
 

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i need to come back to this thread to report some findings .... after I replaced the passenger side window regulator .... the window is rolling back down again on occasion !
Does it do this with both switches? .....driver and passenger? Is it consistently inconsistent with both switches?
 

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Dang that adhesive is messy. Romiving the door panel is easy but getting access to the window track means peeling back the plastic dust seal and dealing with the adhesive. I didn't see anything unusual and didn't have any silicone on hand to apply as has been previously recommended so I sealed it up and put it all back together.
i recall the adhesive was the messiest part of the job. the replacement seal/gasket is not a solid piece, so getting it in position while applying adhesive was a bit tricky.
should have some adhesive remover on hand in case you get glue on something else and need to clean up
i just feel bad that i went thru this job and expense to discover the issue coming back again
 

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Does it do this with both switches? .....driver and passenger? Is it consistently inconsistent with both switches?
it is inconsistent. it sometimes occurs and other times it does not. it only happens with the front passenger window.

concerning the electrical system of this car, i am not fond of it. it is weak and sometimes i wonder if the wiring/equipment is enough to power everything properly.
when i replaced the spark plugs i took some time to clean up the terminals on the battery and the main harnesses. car's electrical 'performance' (if you will entertain that) was slightly more responsive afterwards.

i reset the auto rollup feature of both front windows after reconnecting the battery.
 

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Have you tried using an appropriate lubricant on the upper part of the window track yet?
no
not going to use lubricant on the window as a band-aid for this type of problem.
i recall the adhesive was the messiest part of the job. the replacement seal/gasket is not a solid piece, so getting it in position while applying adhesive was a bit tricky.
should have some adhesive remover on hand in case you get glue on something else and need to clean up
i just feel bad that i went thru this job and expense to discover the issue coming back again
Suit yourself.

I just got a can of this stuff because I needed to order something from WalMart, and this pushed the total order to enough to qualify for free shipping, saving $5. Effectively, this cost me $0.84. Oddly, this arrived two days later, and more than a week after placing the order, the item I was initially ordering is scheduled for delivery about a week from now.



One squirt in the top front corner of the window track and the problem has ceased. I'll see how long this lasts, but even if it's only a couple of months, there's lots o' squirts left in that can! Took a lot less time than composing this post. Oh, yeah... no streaks, either.

As I understand it, you're out about $60 (10X as much as this stuff at retail) for a bargain-priced part (plus adhesive?), an hour or two taking the door apart, changing out the regulator and putting it back together, and it's still not working. But, by golly, you aren't using a lubricant designed to be used on windows on your window!
 

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As I understand it, you're out about $60 (10X as much as this stuff at retail) for a bargain-priced part (plus adhesive?), an hour or two taking the door apart, changing out the regulator and putting it back together, and it's still not working. But, by golly, you aren't using a lubricant designed to be used on windows on your window!
that is correct. i do not band-aid issues, instead i prefer to fix the source of the problem.
going under general assumptions, i decided to replace the regulator and ate the cost as a result. but learned that the problem is something else, which I feel Subaru should look into.

having owned this car for 5 years now, it's not all too bad in terms of problems (luckily) .... but it is pretty obvious that when i compare build quality and reliability against my 2016 Forester .... there are differences that unfortunately make the 2015 Legacy look worse.

Some notable things that persist in memory include premature rear wheel bearing (both of them) failures for the Legacy.

Maybe parts and build sourcing are different for vehicles made in Japan vs. those made in the US .... supply chains, procurement of parts, cost, etc. I have a feeling the higher cost to manufacture cars here in the US has some influence over the cost, and indirectly - the quality - of the parts procured for US origin models.
 

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Yep. They will probably look into it and determine that some things might need to be lubed after five years of use. Shocking. Shocking indeed.
there are others here who have experienced this with newer models than mine.

i never had such an issue and its not commonplace anywhere else to ‘lube’ the rubber seals that are made for automotive window applications in order for them to function correctly.

i’ve had 10+ year old vehicles .... this never crossed my mind because it never occurred.

do me the courtesy and do not post if you are going to amp up the sarcasm on my comments.

Maybe you could also answer in your best judgement and based on your opinion .... why is this only happening with only one out of four power windows on subarus, in particular the front passenger side ?
 

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I'll repeat my fix. It only happen on really hot days when I'd open the window to cool the car as I drove off. The window rubber seal was sticky and right as the window would hit the top, it would grab a little. Once I cleaned the rubber seal/gasket and it wasn't sticky on hot days, the problem went away. Much easier than opening the door and lubing the tracks. I'm assuming a dirty handed tech grabbed that area getting in and out of the car since it didn't do it new.
 
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