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1998 Legacy Outback AWD 2.5L manual
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165 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So it appears that my dual cylinder front left caliper seemed to have pushed my pad unevenly...or perhaps one of the cylinders is seizing up more than the other one....Anyway, it wore down my brake pad at an angle and grinded the tip of the back plate into my rotor a bit....so I'll need new pads and rotors for sure...but what do I do about treating the caliper? Am I destined to order new ones of those too? Anyway to unstick them? Will I just run into this problem again in the future?

Perhaps I'll take pics later of the pad and rotor, but I think everyone here gets what I'm saying.

This is apart from my other problem of the rotor not coming off at all...and of course I have removed the brake pad bracket. I'll have to do some beating/torching maybe.....
 

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96 Legacy OBW, EJ22 swap, 2" suspension lift, 215/75r15, HIDs, 06 WRX interior swap
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335 Posts
A nice 4lbs sledge and a couple well placed hits will get your rotor off.

Based on how corroded that is were you able to seperate the caliper from the bracket? When I did front brakes on mine i found that on the left side the one slide that bolts into the bracket was seized in the caliper. Sound like what happened to you? Ultimately yes replacing the calipers is the true fix. How did I fix mine you ask?
I pulled the dust cap off ad ground down an air hammer bit to fit inside of it and got it out that way. Wire wheeled the crap out of it and sanded inside the caliper best I could. Excessively used a product called sil-glide and reassembled. Then a week later I took it back apart as lubed up once more.

That was close to a year ago and it still moves freely to this day. Hope that helps!
 

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1998 Legacy Outback AWD 2.5L manual
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165 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
my calipers did separate from the bracket thankfully. someone was nice enough to use antiseize on the caliper bolts. so it sounds like i will be ordering some new calipers? i suppose that would be better than doing a rebuild of seals on the things internally and what not....ugh.

any other thoughts?
 

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2001 Legacy 2.5
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450 Posts
For the stuck rotors - easy fix. Just strike with a hammer along the outer edge sharply, go all the way around until it's free (do not strike the flat part of the rotor that the brake pads contact).

Just order a caliper from Rockauto.com. Their prices will probably beat anything local.
 

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129 Posts
i had the same problem with mine. i much prefer to rebuild them if i can, but this one was so bad i could not get the piston out. Had to go to the parts store and get a rebuild. works just fine. a rebuild caliper is about $50. A kit to do them is about $10. All it is is a seal

Ebay is your freind for hard to find parts.LOL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Caliper-Rebuild-Kit-Front-2-250-in-Bore-Lexus-Mazda-Subaru-Toyota-Kit-/111035843427?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make:Subaru&hash=item19da408363&vxp=mtr
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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5,935 Posts
It could have been the caliper (pot or slide), or could have been the pad backing was oversize and didn't slide, I see this with aftermarket pads quite often.
 

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1998 Legacy Outback AWD 2.5L manual
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165 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
:) I whacked on them with a heavy garden tool, then hit them again w/ my rubber mallet after spraying them up with wd40 and both sides came off without too much fuss. :) I will need to invest in a decent hammer though.

I ended up ordering a set of calipers from autozone because of their promotion right now. The front passenger side was also showing signs of uneven wearing, so it looks like this Subie is getting a new front braking system, as far as the parts at the wheels go.

Perhaps I'll paint the new calipers when they come. :)
 

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1998 Legacy Outback AWD 2.5L manual
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165 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
wow, it was terribly difficult to find the bracket-to-hub bolts. Autozone didn't have them and couldn't find them. A couple dealerships didn't have them. And even the Lamb Industrial Supply shop didn't have them. I finally found them at.....guess where....the John Deere dealership. They are grade 8 m12 fine thread. I don't have a Subie dealership in town, but both of the ones I contacted in neighboring cities didn't respond to me...ah well, John Deere gets my money at a whopping 70 cents per bolt! Those are some expensive bolts.

Other parts have come in, so after Sabbath, probably Sunday afternoon, the Subie will get her brakes back!
 
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